Recent content by WrenchLight

Enable "anti-reflux" to disable selling power back to the grid. Yes, you should install the CTs. The vast majority of inverter operation problems are due to incorrect installation of CTs. Make sure the arrow points towards the grid. Don't mix up line 1 and line 2. Install the CTs right after the...

There are inverters available that can interface with existing grid-tied solar. Unfortunately, you'd need to buy a hybrid inverter along with the battery. You don't want to connect the grid-tied solar to a generator. If the inverter ever is successful in sending power to the generator, it could...

There are a few reasons this can happen. Here are some: 1. The BMS can't keep track of the state of charge because it's using mostly coulomb counting with voltage correction. 2. The cells have become unbalanced. (most likely) 3. One or more cells is reaching end of life (less likely). Read the...

I'd let the battery rest an hour at zero amps with a disconnected power cable before attempting to check if the voltage is within calibration specs. If the battery is charging or discharging, you will get different voltages depending on where you touch the probes due to the non-zero resistance...

Charging low voltage cells is risky. Internal damage may not be apparent. Take appropriate precautions such as charging in a well ventilated area away from anything flammable. If you do try this procedure, you do so at your own risk. I have taken stored cells from as low as 0.4V and fully...

Oops. I forgot that option didn't exist in that firmware.

The BMS is necessary for all lithium batteries. It's considered part of the battery. So yes, you'll need an MPPT charge controller if you are doing separate components instead of an all-in-one aka hybrid inverter.

Usually people install fuses on the solar strings instead of breakers. The midget size (10x38mm) 20A / 690V or 1000V fuse is a common choice.

Set CT limit power to zero. Then try adjusting the zero export power setting. This can adjust up or down to target zero current at the CTs. Reminder that once the battery is down to the target state of charge, it will draw power from the grid if there's no solar.

I think somebody gave you the wrong form for the wrong type of grid-connected inverter. If they're asking for MVA, that's city power. 8kW is 0.008 MVA.

There's 12V on the two terminals on the far right of that row of green connectors. It'll do 1A max continuous. It's made for stuff like a TIGO remote solar shutdown. It looks like the Orange Pi needs more than 1A at 5V. There is 5V available inside the top cover, but you'd have to splice into...

The controller itself pulls about 18W without the inverter on. They use about 75W no load with the inverter on.

I would be extremely surprised if it was any different from a standard USB A to B cable. If you ever bought a printer, you probably have one of those in a drawer somewhere.

I'd reduce bulk charging down to 55.9 for LFP 16s battery type and increase float voltage to 55.2. Depending on the BMS settings, if the BMS stops balancing below 3.45V per cell, then that should give you 100%. The BMS should disable charging if any cell exceeds the max voltage. This might be...

That sounds like a problem with the current sensor. It's usually built into the BMS PCB. So I'd say it's warranty time.