Oh that is SOC. Got it sorry.
EG4 6000xp EPS overload
- Thread starter Barndo
- Start date
ScrotpusGobbleBottom
Corn Pop was a bad dude.
Sure looks like battery disconnecting doesn't it?
When I first installed the system I got a event it said like “Battery open” and also the EPS overload? But the Battery open never showed up again just assumed it was when I was installing system.
also when it’s not connected to grid and I take a shower that does not happen on the graph. Every time you see AC disconnected it’s when we take a shower and the graph does not show the battery drop? Weird
ScrotpusGobbleBottom
Corn Pop was a bad dude.
The way you stated this, it sounds like current limiting from the xp,s or one leg overloaded.
I haven't found resistive hearing elements to have a terribly high start up value.
Here is my experience that is similar...
I was happily humming along with my 1 xp. Then I added my 50 gal. water heater. all was fine until my window ac unit cycle off/on. The startup current of the ac pushed the xp to grid for 5 minutes every time the compressor started with the water heater running.
Perhaps this is your situation?
My problem was line balancing.
I moved a circuit and now I'm fine.
SignatureSolarJess
Customer Experience Excellence Ambassador
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Hi! I'm so sorry if you've been waiting!! If you'd like to send me a DM with you name and email address, I can get this escalated for you!
Good idea, I do watch the 4 legs and how they distribute the loads and it’s pretty even with both inverters. However I can only watch this if grid power is off. If it’s on it will immediately switch over but what I could do is turn everything off and start water heater only and test??
ScrotpusGobbleBottom
Corn Pop was a bad dude.
I would.
Yeah it is pretty shortsighted that we can only see what the legs are running while on battery and dont have any graphs for it @EG4_Jared
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ScrotpusGobbleBottom
Corn Pop was a bad dude.
This means nothing without knowing startup surge. My xp didnt like the surge on one leg with the other loads on that leg
Adding to my example, the ac would run fine after the xp switched back to battery after the ac compressor started, but once the compressor turned off and then on, the 5 mins on grid started again.
I had a similar issue with my 6000xp. 24k Minisplit during winter in defrost mode and a coffee maker on one 120v leg toppled the 6000xp and forced EPS overload. Couldn’t catch it in the data but figured it out.
So what should I look for in the start up surge is there a number that it can’t handle? Or maybe A certain amount of time it can handle it? Or just measure it until it happens. This water heater “I think” goes from 0-8k pretty quick I have not tested that yet though. And my go to has been always “no grid power no problems”? So it’s like the grid tie causes the havoc!!
ScrotpusGobbleBottom
Corn Pop was a bad dude.
I think the surge threshold characteristics change on grid vs off.
For instance, On grid while battery connected, it might switch over at 95%. While on battery with no grid connected (no back up) it may "try harder" and go to 110%
On my single Xp, I dont think it likes more than 300 watts over for more than 3 seconds. Just my feeling.
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Cool makes since for sure. When I get back I’ll do some testing and post here. Signature Solar has reached out so maybe we can go thru some set up and parameters and I’ll take notes and post also.
EG4TechSolutionsTeam
Online Support for EG4 Electronics
With two inverters, I would make sure that the discharge current limit is adjusted for parallel use to avoid the EPS overload. This should be set to 280a. However, the 6000XP recommends a minimum of 200Ah per inverter so I would set this to the max discharge current of 200A for the one WallMount battery.
ScrotpusGobbleBottom
Corn Pop was a bad dude.
I wouldnt be looking at the water heater as the problem. It is a constant resistive load with tiny surge....
I would be looking at other loads.
Back to my example..
My ac unit runs on 800 watts but the surge of the compressor is at least 1500 probably more.
Hey thanks Jared, did you by chance go in and change my settings? Looks like some things may have changed or maybe Jenna did? I have attached some photos of settings so they match what you are suggesting?
Attachments
Not sure how it went to ECO mode? Is that supposed to be turned on?
EG4TechSolutionsTeam
Online Support for EG4 Electronics
I always refrain from altering settings without the end user's consent, so the changes were not made by me. However, the discharge current limit appears to be set correctly at present. Eco mode may be activated if desired, but it is not necessary.
I thought I read that ECO worked with PV systems? And right now I have no PV set up yet? Maybe I’m wrong. I’ll read up some more on ECO. Thanks Jared!!
Well not sure who I owe the thank you to but my system is working perfect now. I think Maybe Jenna from Signature Solar made some changes to the system the same changes Jared recommended and now I can run water heater with no issues while not charging. So happy this is working as designed and the insta hot heater is amazing. Thanks everyone. 
Chris the screen shots are above but I was going to find out who changed them to verify exactly what they changed. The big change was the Discharge current limit was set to 200. The max it says when you go to set it says 140 so I am not sure if I could have changed that to 200 or if only signature Solar has the parameters to do that. I am going to email Jenna from signature Solar to see if she was the one and what else she may have done. I will post everything as soon as I get confirmation and also give some of my challenges.
ScrotpusGobbleBottom
Corn Pop was a bad dude.
The pop up hints do not change when you have parallel inverters so in effect they LIED to you.
My discharge max says it cant go over 110, but I have it at 125? Hmmm LIES!!!
I wanted to post my results for my Barndo for those that may have similar setups and issues. I have a 950sq ft house a “barndo” and access to a 200 amp main service panel and septic tank on a 7 acre property. I am running 1- 18k Mr.cool mini split single head, 1 8kw insta hot water heater, an 220v induction cook top, a 7 in1 RV microwave instead of a wall oven, a Samsung all in 1 washer that runs on 120v no vent, a 120v septic pit pump that pumps waste to main septic tank and a standard 24 space 100 amp electric panel running LED lights, plugs etc. I have a 30amp 240 volt circuit running from main house to barndo for a charge circuit. (This kept wire cost lower) since I ran 250ft. I purchased 2 6000xp’s and 1 14.2 kw battery, no solar. (At this time) and above you can read my issues I started with. After reading all the comments and getting help from Signature Solar and EG4 we changed the settings to 200amp discharge rate and the EPS overload and switching to grid stoped. Now the only challenge is running the water heater or the 8kw load while charging batteries from the 30amp circuit. The 2 6000xp and 14.2kw battery will not charge and invert at the same time. It assumes the grid input has more then 50 amps and will just pass it through to all the loads while charging and in my case will trip the 30amp breaker. (My thought was not to run 6 gauge wire 250ft and also not to overload main panel) that is why the 30amp “charge circuit” this EG4 system does not load share like my Victron system. My vault for not researching more. Ok back to resolving my issue. What I have done is I charge batteries by time not SOC now, I charge from 11pm to 6am while sleeping this allows the house to operate on batteries usually until 5pm the next day give or take. I have added a second charge time from 3pm to 4pm to bump SOC 10% or so to get me through to the 11pm schedule. It works for now and I have had no issues. The future plan is to add PV about 4kw to start and also a DC charger powered by the 30Amp charge circuit, this set up will eliminate all the grid and EPS overload issues!! I hope this tread helps. And thanks everyone for your comments and time to help, means a lot!!! Any other suggestions or comments I am open to, just post below.
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