Oh that is SOC. Got it sorry.Both inverters show the drop I would assume a loose connection on one inverter May show the drop but the other one would not see that? What are the numbers on right side of graph represent?
Oh that is SOC. Got it sorry.Both inverters show the drop I would assume a loose connection on one inverter May show the drop but the other one would not see that? What are the numbers on right side of graph represent?
When I first installed the system I got a event it said like “Battery open” and also the EPS overload? But the Battery open never showed up again just assumed it was when I was installing system.Sure looks like battery disconnecting doesn't it?
also when it’s not connected to grid and I take a shower that does not happen on the graph. Every time you see AC disconnected it’s when we take a shower and the graph does not show the battery drop? WeirdSure looks like battery disconnecting doesn't it?
The way you stated this, it sounds like current limiting from the xp,s or one leg overloaded.also when it’s not connected to grid and I take a shower that does not happen on the graph. Every time you see AC disconnected it’s when we take a shower and the graph does not show the battery drop? Weird
Hi! I'm so sorry if you've been waiting!! If you'd like to send me a DM with you name and email address, I can get this escalated for you!So I have a 1 month old system 2 EG4 6000xp and 1 EG4 280ah battery. No solar panels charging from 30amp 240v grid circuit from main house panel. I have a Barndo that is running 100% off this system flawlessly. Now the problem!! I installed a 8kw insta hot water heater for the bathroom, works perfect as long as the grid breaker is turned off. When the grid breaker is turned on as soon as the water heater pulls 8kw along with the normal house draw of about 700watts the 6000xp will stop running causing a w028 eps overload fault and will draw 100% of the load from the 30amp 240v breaker which if corse then will trip because it’s over it’s 7200 watt or so breaker rating. Now if I leave the breaker on all the time so that it will charge the batteries when it hits a 20% soc I have to be mindful never to turn on the hot water. Signature solar has yet to have there 2T reach out and help after 3 weeks of calls and e-mails sending pictures etc. and I was hoping someone could shed some light on this for me. Thanks everyone.
Good idea, I do watch the 4 legs and how they distribute the loads and it’s pretty even with both inverters. However I can only watch this if grid power is off. If it’s on it will immediately switch over but what I could do is turn everything off and start water heater only and test??The way you stated this, it sounds like current limiting from the xp,s or one leg overloaded.
I haven't found resistive hearing elements to have a terribly high start up value.
Here is my experience that is similar...
I was happily humming along with my 1 xp. Then I added my 50 gal. water heater. all was fine until my window ac unit cycle off/on. The startup current of the ac pushed the xp to grid for 5 minutes every time the compressor started with the water heater running.
Perhaps this is your situation?
My problem was line balancing.
I moved a circuit and now I'm fine.
I would.Good idea, I do watch the 4 legs and how they distribute the loads and it’s pretty even with both inverters. However I can only watch this if grid power is off. If it’s on it will immediately switch over but what I could do is turn everything off and start water heater only and test??
This means nothing without knowing startup surge. My xp didnt like the surge on one leg with the other loads on that legthey distribute the loads and it’s pretty even
I had a similar issue with my 6000xp. 24k Minisplit during winter in defrost mode and a coffee maker on one 120v leg toppled the 6000xp and forced EPS overload. Couldn’t catch it in the data but figured it out.This means nothing without knowing startup surge. My xp didnt like the surge on one leg with the other loads on that leg
So what should I look for in the start up surge is there a number that it can’t handle? Or maybe A certain amount of time it can handle it? Or just measure it until it happens. This water heater “I think” goes from 0-8k pretty quick I have not tested that yet though. And my go to has been always “no grid power no problems”? So it’s like the grid tie causes the havoc!!This means nothing without knowing startup surge. My xp didnt like the surge on one leg with the other loads on that leg
Adding to my example, the ac would run fine after the xp switched back to battery after the ac compressor started, but once the compressor turned off and then on, the 5 mins on grid started again.
I think the surge threshold characteristics change on grid vs off.So what should I look for in the start up surge is there a number that it can’t handle? Or maybe A certain amount of time it can handle it? Or just measure it until it happens. This water heater “I think” goes from 0-8k pretty quick I have not tested that yet though. And my go to has been always “no grid power no problems”? So it’s like the grid tie causes the havoc!!
Cool makes since for sure. When I get back I’ll do some testing and post here. Signature Solar has reached out so maybe we can go thru some set up and parameters and I’ll take notes and post also.I think the surge threshold characteristics change on grid vs off.
For instance, On grid while battery connected, it might switch over at 95%. While on battery with no grid connected (no back up) it may "try harder" and go to 110%
On my single Xp, I dont think it likes more than 300 watts over for more than 3 seconds. Just my feeling.
So I have a 1 month old system 2 EG4 6000xp and 1 EG4 280ah battery. No solar panels charging from 30amp 240v grid circuit from main house panel. I have a Barndo that is running 100% off this system flawlessly. Now the problem!! I installed a 8kw insta hot water heater for the bathroom, works perfect as long as the grid breaker is turned off. When the grid breaker is turned on as soon as the water heater pulls 8kw along with the normal house draw of about 700watts the 6000xp will stop running causing a w028 eps overload fault and will draw 100% of the load from the 30amp 240v breaker which if corse then will trip because it’s over it’s 7200 watt or so breaker rating. Now if I leave the breaker on all the time so that it will charge the batteries when it hits a 20% soc I have to be mindful never to turn on the hot water. Signature solar has yet to have there 2T reach out and help after 3 weeks of calls and e-mails sending pictures etc. and I was hoping someone could shed some light on this for me. Thanks everyone.
I wouldnt be looking at the water heater as the problem. It is a constant resistive load with tiny surge....This water heater “I think” goes from 0-8k
Hey thanks Jared, did you by chance go in and change my settings? Looks like some things may have changed or maybe Jenna did? I have attached some photos of settings so they match what you are suggesting?With two inverters, I would make sure that the discharge current limit is adjusted for parallel use to avoid the EPS overload. This should be set to 280a. However, the 6000XP recommends a minimum of 200Ah per inverter so I would set this to the max discharge current of 200A for the one WallMount battery.
Not sure how it went to ECO mode? Is that supposed to be turned on?Hey thanks Jared, did you by chance go in and change my settings? Looks like some things may have changed or maybe Jenna did? I have attached some photos of settings so they match what you are suggesting?
I thought I read that ECO worked with PV systems? And right now I have no PV set up yet? Maybe I’m wrong. I’ll read up some more on ECO. Thanks Jared!!I always refrain from altering settings without the end user's consent, so the changes were not made by me. However, the discharge current limit appears to be set correctly at present. Eco mode may be activated if desired, but it is not necessary.
Chris the screen shots are above but I was going to find out who changed them to verify exactly what they changed. The big change was the Discharge current limit was set to 200. The max it says when you go to set it says 140 so I am not sure if I could have changed that to 200 or if only signature Solar has the parameters to do that. I am going to email Jenna from signature Solar to see if she was the one and what else she may have done. I will post everything as soon as I get confirmation and also give some of my challenges.Would be great if the changes to get this working are documented
The pop up hints do not change when you have parallel inverters so in effect they LIED to you.The max it says when you go to set it says 140 so I am not sure if I could have changed that to 200