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Alternator Charging

MrFrog

MrFrog

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Jul 16, 2020
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I have modeled my system after "The Classic 400", I would like to add alternator charging to the system so the alternator will charge the house batteries while driving and the sun will charge the starting battery when it is low. Is the easily done what willI need to add to the system.
 
Yes an invertor/charger is just fine instead of an inverter and a charger separately, just make sure it has the proper charging profile. To add alternator charging(to a lithium battery), i think, the best method is to use a DC-DC charger, Victron & Sterling both have them (I am sure there are other brands too). Make sure it has the proper charging profile for your batteries.

Good Luck
 
MrFrog said:
100Ah and series 12v
Click to expand...
I think you are confused. If you have a 12V battery bank, and 12V batteries, they will have to be wired in parallel, not series. Will's drawing shows them in parallel, pluses together and minuses together. That will increase the Ah, not the volts.

Because lithium batteries have low internal resistance, they can generally take all of the current given to them. So they could potentially cause your alternator to run at full speed for hours, which it is not designed to do. It is recommended that you run the alternator no more than 50% to prevent burning it out. The BattleBorn batteries are rated for up to 100A each, if you have 3 in parallel, that would be 300A max (solar plus alternator). For longer life, it is generally recommended you do a slower charge. With all of this said, you should plan on no more than 90A from your alternator.

If your alternator has an external controller with a temperature sensor, you can set the current limit to 90A and make sure the temp sensor is working and will throttle it back if it gets too hot. If it doesn't have an external controller, you can get DC/DC converters to do it. Victron makes an excellent 30A one, the Orion, you can wire 3 of them in parallel for 90A.
 
SolarQueen said:
I think I am are confused. If you have a 12V battery bank, and 12V batteries, they will have to be wired in parallel, not series. Will's drawing shows them in parallel, pluses together and minuses together. That will increase the Ah, not the volts.

Because lithium batteries have low internal resistance, they can generally take all of the current given to them. So they could potentially cause your alternator to run at full speed for hours, which it is not designed to do. It is recommended that you run the alternator no more than 50% to prevent burning it out. The BattleBorn batteries are rated for up to 100A each, if you have 3 in parallel, that would be 300A max (solar plus alternator). For longer life, it is generally recommended you do a slower charge. With all of this said, you should plan on no more than 90A from your alternator.

If your alternator has an external controller with a temperature sensor, you can set the current limit to 90A and make sure the temp sensor is working and will throttle it back if it gets too hot. If it doesn't have an external controller, you can get DC/DC converters to do it. Victron makes an excellent 30A one, the Orion, you can wire 3 of them in parallel for 90A.
Click to expand...
Yes it is apparent I am confused about parallel and series. Positives together parallel is how my batteries are connected. I have looked at the Sterling DC/DC. I will look at the Victron now.
 
Last edited:
...following. I have a very similar setup I'm just starting to build and very similar questions. I'm also curious (not to hijack your thread) about what some folks are referring to a toggle switch. Wondering if this is necessary and if it's just "nice to have" what specifications on this little switch would be.
 
snoobler said:
www.mobile-solarpower.com

RV Solar Power Blue Prints

Building a vehicle mounted solar power system? Let me help.
www.mobile-solarpower.com
Click to expand...
Noob question: Need some clarification. This blueprint you shared specifies "this blueprint unfortunately requires parallel connection of the solar panels" whereas this blueprint, without Alt. charging, specifies series/parallel for panels https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/the-classic-400-watt-rvs-vans-buses.html . Is one able to use series/parallel for the panels with Alt. charging?
 
Last edited:
iamblakeh said:
Noob question: Need some clarification. This blueprint you shared specifies "this blueprint unfortunately requires parallel connection of the solar panels" whereas this blueprint, without Alt. charging, specifies series/parallel for panels https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/the-classic-400-watt-rvs-vans-buses.html . Is one able to use series/parallel for the panels with Alt. charging?
Click to expand...
The first system has a DC/DC converter that allows you to safely connect the alternator to a lithium battery bank without melting your alternator. The link you provided just has an MPPT charge controller for the solar panels, but no DC/DC converter. You can do that kit, but you need to add one like the Victron Orion https://www.victronenergy.com/dc-dc-converters/orion-dc-dc-converters-12v-24v-48v-110v
 
...thanks SolarQueen! ...and then I can wire my 4x100w in S/P? That's what I want to do and I didn't know why one blueprint said that wasn't an option. Appreciate the help!
 
SolarQueen said:
The first system has a DC/DC converter that allows you to safely connect the alternator to a lithium battery bank without melting your alternator. The link you provided just has an MPPT charge controller for the solar panels, but no DC/DC converter. You can do that kit, but you need to add one like the Victron Orion https://www.victronenergy.com/dc-dc-converters/orion-dc-dc-converters-12v-24v-48v-110v
Click to expand...
I can't seem to find the installation instructions for the Orion, can you post a link?
 
iamblakeh said:
...following. I have a very similar setup I'm just starting to build and very similar questions. I'm also curious (not to hijack your thread) about what some folks are referring to a toggle switch. Wondering if this is necessary and if it's just "nice to have" what specifications on this little switch would be.
Click to expand...

They might be referring to how on the Victron Orion series, they have a 'remote turn-on' lead, to turn it on/off from dashboard or whatever. Probably other brands have similar kind of remote turn-on. One could just wire that in to the ignition switch so it always turns on when key is in the 'on' position, or can put a toggle switch on dash (for only manual control), or could even wire 2 switches in parallel (having key 'on', or toggle override), or in series, having key 'on' to arm it, and toggle to engage it (if key is 'on')...

Unless they were meaning some other thing...
 
MrFrog said:
I bought a
Blue Smart IP67 Charger 12/25(1) 120V NEMA 5-15
to charge while parked in the driveway and when there is no sun. Do you know if it has programable settings for battle Born batteries?
Click to expand...
Per BattleBorn, the battery prefers to bulk charge at 14.4 volts and float at 13.6 volts. The Victron charger Lithium setting charges at 14.2V and float at 13.5V. A little lower than recommended should be fine, and is better than higher. https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Manual-Blue-Smart-IP67-Charger-120V-EN-FR-ES.pdf
 
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