Bouncing an application of an Mpp Solar LV5048 off ya' all. (One of Will's favorites)

RV is a Jayco Northpoint/Residential Fridge/Fireplace/TV's estimated 3,000 watts per day. The idea is to route the 50Amp shore power directly to the LV5048 with jumpers between L1 and L2 and then wire the RV's main 50amp Main breakers to the output of the inverter. On the DC side, 4 Valence U27-12XP batteries (138ah/1,766WH) configured as 48V/138 amps. For Solar, I have 6 Sunpower SPR230 with VOC of 48.7V pushing 46V/5.5 amps each peak. Solar is wired in series and parallel. The batteries are housed in a metal case next to two 30lb propane tanks. No generator so if I connect my Honda 2000ie it will be as shore power. The purpose is to be able to boondock 5 days+ each location. 12V is powered from a 48V-12V converter. Any suggestions, warnings, questions, etc. Thank you for your time and consideration. Yes, I do have Will's book The picture is to show location before any wiring was done.

Did you end up doing this? I am less experienced then you it sounds, but am planning to do something similar, but only 12v.
Specificially I want to run my shore power through the MPP on the way to the main breaker in the panel.
My question:
Is there a conflict between the MPP trying to charge the battery directly when connected to shore power (and solar), and the RV trying to charge the battery through the 110v-12v converter off the existing RV system. Should I just disconnect the RV converter?

Also, where / how do I connect in my 12v loads?

Hi Thomas, I did complete the install. After 1 month of full time use, everything is golden. I ran the shore power to the inverter IN and the OUT to the main panel in the trailer. I disconnected the 12V charger on the main and installed a 48V to 12V converter in line with the POS from the batteries. The Batteries have had no issues and are charged by the inverter and I can adjust the amps IN as needed. The batteries stay at about 56V and can handle all our needs, so far. Solar is 10AWG off the roof to a 80amp breaker and 8AWG from the breaker to the inverter. The inverter is setup to charge the batteries with UTL first. If no UTL, Solar will maintain the charge which you will adjust according to your needs. All my wiring is over-sized and I have not had any issues with HEAT; My biggest concern when I was building this setup. I'm using a marine diode in the trucks wiring harness so there is no back feed to the truck. Because of HEAT/Fire I went with the 48V. In hindsight I wish I had gone with 24V because of expense vs need. Best regards.

DallasMike said:

... I disconnected the 12V charger on the main and installed a 48V to 12V converter in line with the POS from the batteries.

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Since I am at 12 v already, I can just connect the 12 dist panel in between the MPP and the Battery? Something like this:

can I connect directly to the MPP (along with the battery ring terminals) on the same post or do I need the BusBar or a shunt?
Thanks for your reply! Glad your system worked out!

thomascleary66 said:

Since I am at 12 v already, I can just connect the 12 dist panel in between the MPP and the Battery? Something like this:

can I connect directly to the MPP (along with the battery ring terminals) on the same post or do I need the BusBar or a shunt?
Thanks for your reply! Glad your system worked out!

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You should be able to I think (the shunt is for measuring the capacity and stuff like that) the busbar is just to keep the wires tidier...you can just connect directly to the battery also (defn add a fuse though)

thomascleary66 said:

Since I am at 12 v already, I can just connect the 12 dist panel in between the MPP and the Battery? Something like this:

can I connect directly to the MPP (along with the battery ring terminals) on the same post or do I need the BusBar or a shunt?
Thanks for your reply! Glad your system worked out!

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Looks like you've done your homework and and as much as I can tell, good from here. Good luck.

How is this working, 6 months later?

With the awful idle loss of that MPP I bet he's wishing he went with a Growatt.

Are they that much different when being not in standby? I vaguely remember when doing research i compared them and they were within like 5w of each other. And with 6x 230watt PV I hardly doubt the idle consumption is killing him that hard

Maast said:

With the awful idle loss of that MPP I bet he's wishing he went with a Growatt.

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Are the Growatt's supposed to have substantially lower idle than the notoriously high MPP's? The Growatt spec sheet's I've looked at do not list idle consumption.

edit: due to another conversation I'm having, I consolidated all the reported idle consumption numbers I could find for Growatt (mostly the SPF 3000 LVM) from both owners, reviewers, and the company itself into a table here. I would still be interested in your opinion though as yours is an opinion I trust and value.