Mpp 1k can draw more amps than SOK can discharge

Howdy All,
I purchased a MPP all in one 12v-1K, the max amp draw on it is 109 amps. I also had purchased a SOK 206ah battery a while back that has a max discharge rate of 100 amps continuous and 200 amps for 3 seconds (yes 3 seconds). Was wandering if anyone could advise on how to approach this issue besides getting another battery in parallel. Could I reduce the draw of the MPP in some manor?
Thanks in advance for any input.

kingsling said:

Howdy All,
I purchased a MPP all in one 12v-1K, the max amp draw on it is 109 amps. I also had purchased a SOK 206ah battery a while back that has a max discharge rate of 100 amps continuous and 200 amps for 3 seconds (yes 3 seconds). Was wandering if anyone could advise on how to approach this issue besides getting another battery in parallel. Could I reduce the draw of the MPP in some manor?
Thanks in advance for any input.

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Is it MPP Solar PIP-1012LV-MS?
If it is, It has 1000W inverter, so for you to draw less current from the battery you will have to reduce the AC load on the inverter.
Are you trying to draw 1000W continuously from the inverter? I usually run my equipment at around 80 ~ 90% of the rating.

Hey Bud,
Thanks for your time, I'm fine with lowering my usage to 80/90 %, I was looking for way fuse dc input and throttle the ac load side, any ideas?

yes it is MPP Solar PIP-1012LV-MS?

That is a teaser headline. The OP must have ignored the fundamental principals of sizing a system. As mentioned, the choices are simple, reduce consumption in kWhs or increase storage in kWhs. The capacity of the inverter is just instantaneous kWs. How long you use that is what an energy audit will tell in terms of how much storage in kWhs you should purchase.

kingsling said:

Hey Bud,
Thanks for your time, I'm fine with lowering my usage to 80/90 %, I was looking for way fuse dc input and throttle the ac load side, any ideas?

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Well, what is the AC load that you have that can be throttle to make it draw less power from the inverter? Electric heater? or if you know what your loads are then you just have to watch out not to exceed the battery current draw spec.
Fuse is for protection the wire from catching on fire, and if you use under rated fuse when you draw too much current than the fuse rating the fuse will blow, is that what you plan to do?.
1000W inverter will draw about 1000W/0.85 = 1176W on the DC input side, so at low Voltage of 11V (battery low Voltage shutdown) the current will be 1176W/11V = 107A (109A per MPP), so 109A x 1.25 = 136A fuse and the wire that can handle 136A, since there is no 136A fuse, you will end up with 140A or 150A fuse.
BTW, I have PIP-1012LV-MS and LV-MK.

kingsling said:

I was looking for way fuse dc input and throttle the ac load side, any ideas?

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As Bud pointed out a fuse is a cumbersome way to throttle a load. Turning off switches or devices is more effective. There are more expensive inverters that can manage loads and also electrical panels like the $4,000 Span panel that can do that.

Thanks for your input brothers,
I only wanted to fuse the AC output side to protect from BMS from shutting down when I screw up and run a high wattage device because of my Alzheimer's or dementia (kind of like when I missed the MPP max draw and SOK battery output thing) or you can't fix stupid. ?

kingsling said:

Thanks for your input brothers,
I only wanted to fuse the AC output side to protect from BMS from shutting down when I screw up and run a high wattage device because of my Alzheimer's or dementia (kind of like when I missed the MPP max draw and SOK battery output thing) or you can't fix stupid. ?

Click to expand...

No, it is not stupid at all, you ask question, it is bad when people do not ask question when they are not sure what they are doing, you are fine.

Thanks Bud