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Honestly Amazon. I'm happy to use a better vendor if you can suggest one. Amazon is good about returns....they are easy and I've returned a few sheeety components that didn't work so...that part is nice.

I swapped out the fuse for a new one and now have the lug/fuse together both in direct contact with the bottom part of the fuse holder. Now its...warm. Not hot. Much better. Thx! I appreciate all the feedback. Temps up to -2c today! Spring!!

they "look" like copper! I have some copper washers I can replace in case its not.

great, ty for this. Ill try it first then flip the posts then a new fuse. Its -20celcius here today and its hard on the Van to start it in this cold so waiting for a warmer day....they are coming next week.

I have some different fuses coming tomorrow so I am going to try that first but swapping the posts is a great idea too. If these two things fail, ill get a new holder. Its a Renogy. I dont know why i bought there brand; i guess because its a renogy dc-dc charger that its connected to lol...

I haven't focused on matching lug size to post diameter. Ill try that too. To me the odd thing is that its just that one fuse holder post that's warm....nothing else. I've tried a few diff cables of different sizes on that post and still hotish.

Thx. Yes, from bottom up its washer, fuse, lug, washer, lock washer the nut. Its not burning hot...just.. hot. I have a few more fuses coming tomorrow so ill try one of those a d see if it makes any difference!

Tried a larger size wire and still getting heat at the post. The hot post end of the fuse is hot as well. Ill try a different fuse and if no luck, ill send it back and try a different fuse holder.

Will do. I should add that after 20 minutes of running, the fuse isn't "blowing" its just as you said...the post is hot and the wire is warm at the lug end that attaches to the post.

Just thinking more about what you are saying....if there's a voltage drop across the fuse...other things being equal, there will be an amperage rise leading to more heat. If I increase the wire size, it should reduce the voltage drop and the amperage...thus reducing heat. Sound right? I think...

Its a Renogy 40a DC-DC charger. The Amp Rating is 40a. It also specifies the current limit at 20a. How did you test your DC-DC charger at 14.7a output (edit>never mind...you tested it at 14.7v I assume<edit)... Mine basically charges at 37amps. The dipswitches on it are for specifying the...

OK. Its the same for me. the mounting post is the warmest bit followed by the lug/wire that runs out to the DC-DC charger.

Thanks! Did you try to increase the size of the fuse? ie...i could put in a 70amp fuse because...maybe its a wee bit too small?

Hi folk. I have replaced the inline breakers (tried a few and none worked...they tripped OR the charger would blink on and off) that I originally had between the disconnect that goes to my Van battery (180a alternator) and the DC-DC renogy charger with a fuse as in the picture below. In the...

I am "techcnical" but my area of expertise is AI / ML and data. I could probably get it done tho. It just it might take more time that I have currently allocated for this bit ! I am going to look into what each charge device can to to help given all the above advice and then my legs and arms...

Perfect. Ty for your advice.

I have 2 Power Queen lithiums in parallel and 3 power sources solar (Renogy 30a charge controller) dc-dc (Rengogy dc-dc 40a charger) ac-dc (power queen 20a charger) These charger are always hooked up. If i drive, dc-dc charges, when plug in to shore power, the ac-dc charges and solar...

Thanks! ""If you are not learning you are dying"... lol, what if you are forgetting more than you learn?

My system is 12v. There are 3 sources of power 1. solar through a renogy 30a charge controller. 2. car alternator through a renogy 40a DC-DC charger 3. shore power through a Power Queen 20a AC-DC charger. My batteries are 12v Lithium's @ 100ah. Sorry for my ignorance. What is OCP?

Thx! This is what I am hoping to do. I can use the one disconnect I already have but if my breaker can do the same thing....I would rather not use my limited wall space using more disconnects.

Ok! So then I need better breakers than I have i suppose. Disconnecting would not be a frequent thing...it would be something I can use to isolate / turn off a power source so I can do maintenance/ upgrade ect...

I have both a breaker and battery disconnect switch between my DD - DC charger output and the main bus bar. My question is, do I really need the disconnect or is it redundant given I can shut off the flow from the charger by tripping the breaker switch?

Indeed I saw that. Just wanted to be sure that I can think of my battery bank as 200ah..Thx for this. Thank you. I did understand from your post and a quick scan of the internet to figure out what a shunt does.

Awesome, ty. I don't have a shunt but can add one in. Below you can see the NOCO and negative terminal...the positive one is a bit to the left under the solar charge controller (second pic)

This was his comment in relationship to power sources... "AC-DC input via MPPT (using a AC to DC power supply feeding an MPPT solar controller with voltage/current consistent with a solar panel)". I read this to mean that the AC-DC "output" needs to feed into the MPPT solar...

Hi folk! First thread. I have a custom conversion Sprinter Van with a 200 watts of solar! Love the Van and mountain biking it enables me to do! I read a thread that was started by "Snoobler" where he described that you can have many powers source powering your battery bank. One of the...