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My 3210 is powered by the battery and as long as the battery is connected, the display works. Once the battery bank is fully charged, I can read the voltage only of the solar panels, no amps shown because no power is drawn from the panels for charging. Initially it was confusing to me, too...

Once you know the obstruction zone on the Starlink, why not just top the trees in the way? Less trees hanging over your cabin means less storm damage in high winds. Mounting anything to a growing tree is asking for problems in the future. Short term solution at best. If it’s a Gen three antenna...

I was reminded recently that I fail to mention the CIGS comparative cost when I recommend them. They are 2-3X the cost of standard panels for a savvy shopper. The simple install, flexibility and ability to take a beating were worth it to me, but I only buy them when on sale, too. Removal. Use a...

WOW! Just WOW! Well, the fuse worked… But the power was high enough to arc over the melted fuse. And that continued long enough to set a fire. I’d contact the fuse maker. Too short a section that actually melts away from the fuse tabs.

Decided to go the easiest route, and do nothing (to the existing panels & SCC). Likely mount the Victron 75/15 in my TT near the other Solar and add another side inlet for ground panels. MAYBE after playing with the 75/15, I’ll get motivated to swap in a larger Victron for the EPever. IF they go...

I noticed on a few utube videos some are putting the solar entry glands on the RV side, another option. You can walk on CIGS panels. You can even DRIVE on them and shoot holes through them, they keep working for the most part.

12vdc, four 100AH paralleled.

I specifically used the CIGS panels on the front curve of my Wolf Pup 16BHS. The 100 watt “compact” versions fit my camper well, plus I was too cheap to buy the 200 watt panels. The standard length 100 & 200 watt panels are SEVEN feet long, limiting placement choices. But they all wrap around...

The former. The battery is charged enough that the controller didn’t need to pull the power from the panel.

Currently have an EPEVer Tracer 100/30 MPPT hooked up. 4 100watt CIGS panels, 2S, 2P configuration for about 60 volt 10A supplied. Bought & installed the MT50 remote display. EBaying a used Victron 75/15, at a killer price, of course. Should have bit the bullet and gotten a Victron smart Solar...

Correction to my earlier post. The 14.4vdc is the absorption mode, not the equalization which is even higher, 16.2vdc. Final float mode is 13.8vdc. At least on the Victron smaller SCCs. As long as your charging device passes a voltage higher than the battery, the battery will charge. Solar...

14.4vdc is needed to balance the cells in the LiFePO4 battery, the controller only supplies this level occasionally for a set time. If the battery is fully charged, the controller will show overall panel voltage but the amps will be only what the battery needs to remain topped off. One of the...

Option B would be best for avoiding shading on a series string. But option A would be easier for cable runs. I think a big consideration is will the Solar addiction strike you again. Whichever placement you choose, leave enough room to add two more panels, I.e., ability to use BOTH option A & B...

Any way to go F vice C on this SCC?

When I recently had probs with my XiaoXiangElectric BMS app, a few suggested using Overkill Solar app. With it I was able to overcome my problem, inability to reenable charging and discharging after disabling them during TT winterization.

That’s called overpaneling. Yours is only 4% IF you panels were in optimal conditions. Most SCC manuals will list the amount you can overpanel by wattage or percentage, if they approve it. Voltage limits seem to be the bigger factor not to exceed.

Yup, the refrigerator roof vent is a large handy pre drilled access hole for solar wiring. Unfortunately, on my TT I’d have to then go through the floor to get to my SCC & battery bank because the main door is in the way.

When winterizing my RV trailer, I used my battery disconnect. That disconnected all but the SCC and I disconnected the panels from that. I do keep it plugged into shore power and the converter 12VDC operates everything but the emergency brakes and my inverter ;)

Maybe they’ve been damaged by charging at low temperatures. 90AH for $170 is not that good a deal. You can buy several different brand 100AH for $200 on Amazon. Plus the used batteries are noticeably larger physically & heavier for that 90AH. $125 would be a more fair price. 2 year loss of 40%...

Parallel panels or groups of panels in series are not all affected by one panel or series of panels being shaded. Just think of the panels like water valves. One in a series can limit the flow through the whole series, but shutting off one in parallel does not affect others in parallel. When a...

I don’t understand why it would be too hard to rewire the existing panels in series. Then use the 75/15 MPPT SCC in place of the WPM SCC. Get a LiFePO of the AH you desire and go camping to try everything out and discover what you might be lacking. I think the problem with auto detect...

Thanks. Downloaded the overkill app. Pouring rain right now. I’ll see if it works when it’s done storming. Got antsy. Got a rain jacket and went to the trailer (about 100-150 feet from house). The Overkill app worked like a charm. I linked to each battery and enabled charging and discharging...

XiaoXiangElectric app. I selected discharge and charge and balancing OFF while winterizing my camper. Now it will not allow me to select ON for those functions. Battery reads 1.something volts using a meter. App reads fully charged. It will not allow me to select the control page. The BT page...

Whatever happened? Renogy has pulled all CIGS sales links?

Not too odd but a nice fit on my 2019 wolf pup. One annoyance. I could almost put three of them here if it wasn’t for the upper mounted marker lights.

I did an internet search for a source of a Licetti power box. I have a spare 12v 100AH LiFePO4 I bought on a killer sale that I’d like to use. I found the Licetti on AliBaba but inverter status was unclear or non existant, and shipping was astronomical (IMHO). The Licetti battery box with an...

My OCD kicked in on my “starter” solar lit and I removed the data stickers from my first two supposed high wattage flex panels. I figured using the controller they came with, it wouldn’t matter. Now I’ve learned about the performance specs and their use in configuring a system. I now have and...

I wired my 4 100AH batteries in a similar manner. My 3000 watt inverter draws a lot of power through some thick cables, 2/0 IIRC, with a 200A CB. The other ends of the battery bank connect to my buss bars. Everything else connects via the bus bars, solar controller & the TT 12vdc supply lines...

I have an EPever 100v 30A controller. As long as I stay under those values, is it safe to place more panels than the unit’s manual recommends for maximum solar panel wattage? Manual lists 390 watts maximum in panels. Rounded off example using 100 Watt panels, 25V/5A rated: 3 in series, 4 of the...

I’m now thinking I’ll run two pairs in series first, then parallel them, mostly to save on parallel adapters. That way the 100W panel specs would result in 50V and 9A feeding a 100V/30A EPEVER. To me, that’s well within controller tolerances. I think I could add a bit more panels, even though...

Does it make a difference whether solar panels are connected in series first, then series strings in parallel OR parallel first, the paralleled groups in series? Advantages and disadvantages? I understand parallel is best avoiding shading while series is better for low light power generation to...