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Got it, thanks.

I re-worked my wiring diagram to incorporate the new equipment according to @Rednecktek 's suggestion. I already have a Renogy DC to DC charger that I was going to use to get power from the alternator. I can repurpose that to charge the 12V battery off the 48V battery. Not claiming perfection...

@sunshine_eggo It's ok if the power save mode doesn't work out. I wasn't counting on it in my planning. I was anticipating continuing my current behavior i.e. turn the inverter on when I need it. If it doesn't work out, I'm happy to turn off the power save feature. Yes, it's definitely...

@sunshine_eggo Yes, it definitely is hungry. I knew that before I bought it. But I went ahead with this unit for a few reasons. First, after living full time in my RV for the past 8 months I've learned that I rarely turned my inverter on. I turn it on to charge my laptop and to fill another...

I've already got a 200 a•hr (12V) battery that is running my RV. It's hooked up to a 2KW Giandel inverter. Works great. But it can't provide 240V the new a/c unit requires. I've got a 48V EG4 that should be coming in next week (fingers crossed it's left the port of LA) and my Sigineer 6kW 48V...

@mbab happy to...and you might want to follow the other thread for updates. I don't know if "following" a thread is possible on this forum. @One Old Guy I'm going with 48V, which would have been best from the beginning but I was very new to all of this a year ago. See the post on this thread...

@mbab I should get my EG4 soon (it was ordered 8 weeks ago) and it's going in a class C as part of my project to install a mini-split heat pump. @Generis kicked off the thread and I took his post as inspiration for my build. Lots of info and detail there but it's a long thread so I advise...

@K8MEJ yes, I've learned that to get the higher efficiencies (say, above 25 SEER) one needs to go to 240V and I installed the 12K BTU GREE (private labeled as Innovair). SEER is 30.5. Re: the Victron units, do you know why they say their units are "Not For Use In The U.S.A." if it's so easy...

Phew! All clear.

$3.1k and seems their 230V version is for Europe only. "Note: *** This Product Is 230 VAC Output, European Voltage, Not For Use In The U.S.A ***" https://www.invertersupply.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=263_268&products_id=6001

$2700 for what I want, about $1K more than the Sigineer: https://www.ecodirect.com/Schneider-Electric-Conext-SW-4048-RNW865404861-p/schneider-rnw865404861.htm Now, maybe there is extra quality and it's worth it. I don't know.

@Zwy "Don't limit yourself to just one supplier, there are other units out there." Oh, I'm looking. My Google doc has over a dozen brands listed that I've examined. And I found this comparison chart. So far the Sigineer is still the best choice. I had thought of making my own switch but other...

Very nice install, @mstud21 . @richard cabesa it was a tire when the trailer had only a single axle. I think what happened is that I pulled up beside a curb and promptly abraded the tire wall. Within two miles of that stop the tire blew. I think I'm making every mistake possible as I learn this...

Very interesting, @richard cabesa . My original axle had gotten out of alignment and I did not correct it after adding the second one. When I visit the trailer shop I will get them to look at it. They might have to bend the axle back to true—or maybe only the wheels are out of alignment.

Down in Corpus Christi now in 80° days and trying to eat all the seafood. The trailer had little sway on the way down—much less than when I had just one axle. So in the sway department it's handling well. However, I did get a blown tire and I wonder if the extra weight was the cause or if I hit...

@K8MEJ I will definitely update y'all on the final result. Getting solar going is required before I head south. I'm going to spend a few months in Baja to enjoy the weather, the environment and the culture. Plus, since I have my bike, I'll do some off-road riding, too. I haven't looked into a...

@K8MEJ @Generis the trailer fabricator who made my shelf was able to add the spare to the right vertical channel. He had some extra thick channel that is crazy strong. Instead of the typical 1/4" (I think that's what he said), it was something like 5/8". That shelf needs to hold only 100lb...

Yes, a wind deflector that will also keep the tree branches out:

Thanks, @K8MEJ , but I measured and I need at least 6" off the rooftop to do what @Generis is doing: have the panels be above my rear vent fan when the lid is about 80% open.

I figured that the rack would be aluminum but I'm not attached to a rack: I just want them raised and that looked like a simple solution. Are you thinking something like this but much taller? (From Will's page.) You can definitely make these diagrams. It's easy and I use the free online...

Reworked my diagram using 80"x40" panels. I see the allure of getting five panels but then it seems that one is placing the mounts partially away from the corners, perhaps. Not a problem; just necessary because you're right at the limit of the roof space for the panels you are looking at—hence...

Found this. Here is what I now want to do and what it sounds like @Generis is doing though without the fan shroud and I won't have a rooftop AC unit soon: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f53/solar-panels-mounted-to-the-roof-or-elevated-over-items-on-the-roof-282939.html#post2978785 They also...

Thanks, @K8MEJ. Those don't quite seem high enough to get above some of the elements on my roof—even the 4.5" ones. I wish I had taken a picture the other day of the RV that had elevated panels.

Yes, it's a class C and I've run the line from the alternator to the battery bay but haven't yet connected the DC-to-DC charger as I was about to rework everything for this new 48V system I'm designing. But you make a good point: with solar, alternator charging and a bigger battery, the need for...

Hmmm. I took out the lead acid battery that was just beside my generator. Maybe I can put mine there. Actually, once the solar system is in, I could take out the generator and put the tire there, probably, though I do like having an onboard generator. It's come in handy when I'm not in a place...

I considered underneath but I'm already scraping the rear of my rig because of how far back it extends from the rear wheels. Terrible design. The departure angle is almost zero. I don't want to add another problem there. Plus, I'm traveling on moderately rutted dirt roads as I boondock—I need...

Oh, don't I know it. I've been wracking my brain and have come up with no place better. As it is I'm going to buy a longer tow bar because I'm towing a trailer that might mash the tire on tight left turns. I have no space underneath and I don't want it in the trailer. This fellow made it work...

Hmmm...I have to mount my compressor high against the rear of the RV to leave space for the spare tire. I'm no longer sure 25ft will be enough. Makes sense to run the tubes inside since the walls are so thin.

@Generis can I ask how long the tubes from the compressor to the evaporator unit are in your install? I have a 25ft option from the manufacturer and it may be tight. And did you run them under then up actually inside the thin wall beside your door? Or does it run under then up along the inside...

Thanks for the clarification. I see now. I suppose all I have to do is take off the rear vent cover. Very interesting. That would allow me to add the size of panels you are using, of course.

Ah, that makes sense. I've already taken off my front vent but I'm keeping the rear one because it has a MaxxAir fan in it that I want to keep. It pulls in cool air from the windows. But if you have no vents, you get the full use of the roof. The bracket sounds great. I'm on the hunt for how...

My system is currently a 12V one and I'm switching to 48V to use the Growatt 240V inverter and a high-efficiency 240V mini-split (the 38 SEER by Innovair, which is actually GREE). Also hoping to get one of these (but the 48V/100AH version) as it should fit perfectly in the only place I can put...

Thanks for this thorough report, @Generis . This leads me to believe that I won't have enough battery to take advantage of my mini-split for very long overnight in heating mode. I'm currently looking at upgrading my whole system to be able to run a very efficient mini-split but I'm counting on...

That's what I thought. I could replace the current 200Ah battery with a 300Ah one and buy one or two more. I discovered after purchase that the 200Ah version does not have a low temperature cutoff so there are two reasons to upgrade.

Yes, it makes does make a 300Ah. I thought it was important to keep the battery size the same—but I'm new to this so I could easily be wrong. I would be very happy to run one 200Ah battery (the current one) plus two 300Ah batteries for a total of 800Ah (9600kWh). What happens if the batteries...