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I've been using a 12/3000 (well, two of them across two travel trailers) for ~2yrs in an all-Victron (BMS, MPPT, CCGX) setup. Overall quality is quite good with lots of features. At worst, all I have are little nitpicks: Some of the config has to be done via direct connection with an adapter...

This question/discussion probably makes more sense to have as a separate thread though, rather than hijacking this one. By distribution panel you mean the BlueSea fuse box? Yeah, seems completely reasonable to me. Wiring sizes and fuses don't quite match up, though. Your controller tops out...

That's because there's a typo in there, sorry. 4x200W for 800W nominal and ~6% above their rating rather than just over 2x.

No formal testing, but I've finally gotten a chance to really put the 2x200W panels I got from them to work. The highest I've seen is 849W, though that was probably ideal conditions (cool summer day at high altitude, driving around the mountains so probably at least briefly got near-ideal tilt)...

I'd suggest some sort of shunt-based monitoring so that you have a better idea of your actual power levels and draw. Lithium batteries don't have as much voltage sag as lead-acid, which helps with accuracy on voltage-based charge level measurement, but they have much steadier voltage through...

Possibly, though more likely it's off-gassing of the insulation itself. If you try brake cleaner, be sure to test on a small section first to make sure it doesn't eat the insulation.

The isopropyl alcohol is probably a better idea, but heating it up (not drastically, maybe 120F or so) will accelerate the off-gassing quite a bit compared to winter outside temperatures.

Good point about the overly-fast charging. Not a problem for LFP or large banks, but it might be for a small lead-acid bank. For short periods every now and then, I imagine C/3 or so wouldn't hurt too much as long as it's <80% charged, and above that the voltage will probably be high enough...

You can also check out https://www.routedelsol.com/ for a fully-solar setup (I think done by the same builders as the VW bus) 10 miles a day in a sunny mild climate is probably doable, but you'll want a plan B (second vehicle, Uber, extension cord.. something) and don't expect to come out ahead...

The EasyStart is fundamentally different from a typical hard start kit. The hard start is basically a larger capacitor that gives an extra "kick" to help overcome pressure and start the compressor quickly. It takes the edge off the starting current but doesn't really change how it works...

I wouldn't worry too much about it unless you actually see the converter kicking into float mode immediately instead of bulk. If the solar controller goes into float when you're plugged in, it's technically a "waste" but probably won't make any practical difference. It'll generally only make a...

It's always safe, but not always optimal. That is, the battery system is one big DC bus and power can be going in and out via multiple devices with no problems, but it's possible that one device will see the charging voltage from another and kick into float instead of bulk mode sooner than it...

Personally, I think I'd lean towards 24V and running the panels in parallel. Shading is a major issue with travel trailers based on location, so in practice you'd probably get more power out of the system in parallel. I'd expect 55V to keep the voltage drop to a minimum, though of course you'd...

Any idea if they've got a low-temperature shutoff? I'd assume so with the two temp sensors, but assuming is a good way to end up with an expensive doorstop in the winter.

The amount of gold used in plating is really, really small. Probably along the lines of <0.01g total of gold used (so ~$0.50 or less) Silver conducts better but corrodes more easily. Gold is very corrosion-resistant. Platinum... not a clue. That sounds like marketing bullshit to me. If...

Not sure about where, but the gold plated ones will be more resistant to corrosion. Important for marine applications, less important for a house or RV in Arizona or something.

Just speculating, but the BMS connection when the batteries are in series is probably so that they can balance with each other. When they're hooked up in parallel, they'll stay balanced without needing to communicate.

"Legit" meaning established quality and with a full built-in BMS, so excluding things like DIY from individual cells or hit-or-miss brands like Ruixu. That leaves Victron, LifeBlue, RELiON, etc that are all right around Battleborn prices or a bit above. A couple years ago BB was basically $100...

LiFePo4 specifically hasn't seen the massive increase in volume and development that the higher-energy chemistries have, so it hasn't seen as much in terms of improvement and cost reduction. BB also started at a lower price point that basically all the "legit" suppliers. Seems like the past...

I talked to someone their (the owner?) via their Facebook page a while back. The fred480v eBay store is the manufacturer selling the panels directly. He said they're the same modules as the LG NeON2 400 panels, though the final panel's bit less efficient because of the size and busbar...