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Wow... pricy... Around here they go for about $50...

Meh, the 14 red rings work great if you fold the 22 on itself.

I have seen cat 5 shielded cable obliterated by rodents… it has an aluminum jacket internal to the pvc insulation… maybe the foil tape on the outside could deter chomping, but it doesn’t affect it on the inside. Hard conduit for the entire run?

I have seen where rodents avoid steel wool, maybe use both?

An 18650 is similar to a large AA cell. A pouch looks like a juice pouch... similar chemistry, but different build.

Heh... i like that the pack is a bundle of sticks, and a fag definition is a bundle of sticks... And you call the cigarette a stick.

If you mean to DISCHARGE them down to 0% to reach bottom balance, you would be searching for 2.5V not 3.2 3.2V us somewhere in the middle of the knee, and is a useless voltage to balance to.

Gee... i wonder why my state NC has close to the lowest prices?

Not in my experience it wont...

Actually, mAh is a silly metric to use, since Ah is based on voltage, and they rarely provide it in the spec. Often it is based on the 3.7V cell/pouch 20,000mAh is 20Ah x 3.7V is 74Wh 78Ah would be 288Wh if at same voltage... A 100Ah 12.8v battery is... 345,945.94594595mAh... so...

I typed up a nice long explanation of pros and cons, had comedy intertwined and went to get the TC video to link in... and the browser lost my post... waaah... Oh well, y'all can imagine what i wrote.

My 30 gallon tank sits at 155F all the time, and i installed a mixing valve to regulate hot water temp to the house. Keeps the tank full, and slows the draw from the tank. Perfect for large families on an electric water heater. Two showers same time, zero cold shower issues.

Nope... Only way to get faster recovery from a standard electric tank water heater is to install larger elements. There is no safe way to energize both elements simultaneously.

No... Tank will happily switch between upper and lower elements with the 5000W inverter.

Keep in mind, propane / 110v fridges consume MASSIVE watts in 110V mode...

Heh, i was annoyed at the slow recovery times on a water heater, and in my youth I decided to tie both elements to the upper thermostat... Yeah... bad things happened. Ya know, i think the wiring in the heater is only #12, possibly thinner... it didnt like nearly 40A flowing through it...

My mother always said whenever she planted anything in the garden it would rain... I think she just planted stuff when it was cloudy...

Here is mine so far today... Time to reheat cell 1 and 5

Neither. Us water heaters only energize one element at a time. Top element for rapid recovery of a cold tank, and lower element for heating entire tank. So, only 4500W ever draws.

Since charging will be lower than drain, if you use a polarized dc breaker, and current from battery is input, the lower charging current won’t pose a disconnect issue.

On my 8s 280Ah pack, I connected the BMS, charged until one cell hit disconnect, then connected a 3.55V power supply to each low cell until they all hit 3.55, then the pack should be in balance.

What voltage are the batteries?

Yikes... Yes, a single busbar rated for 300A is better than two bars rated for 150A sandwiched together... but two sandwiched together are better than ONE 150A bar. I wouldnt use brass bolts here because torque is so important with parallel bars. Clean ends, make sure torque is solid, and go...

I dont see a solar disconnect. Keep in mind, when the sun is up, high dc voltage may still be present.

Either the shunt isn’t correctly setup, or it isn’t calibrated to the setup. Post pictures of the wiring.

Wow, 56V absorption is 3.5v each. Fine for new well balanced cells, but as they age, drift can happen. If any cells are weak they will reach 3.65 first and the bms will disconnect. That would allow the system to overshoot. I would think the absorption should be 54 and the boost to 54.5

Is there a reason the battery voltage is so high? 3.46v/cell is above 100% and likely some cells are reaching high voltage disconnect. I would adjust the charge voltage down below 3.4v/cell... I would alter the charge parameters so 54V is full

You would need TWO soft starters, and you would need to disconnect the hard start... I wouldnt try it.

Idk, the cut wire may be inconsequential, or not, it looks like it is linking the transformer in the diagram with L1

Unistrut

Oh come on now... We ALL know she spends more time in the bedroom than we men ever will... And if ANYTHING in there isn't to her fancy, it soon will be. Best to move projects like this to the garage. In my opinion, a loads panel tied to the breaker box with only certain circuits run to it...

Ok, here it looks like the start assist is factory, and for both compressors, The red wire is cut on yours, so it likely doesnt work...

I like dented lug terminal crimps. The hex crimp just never seems correct to me.

Most controllers NEED a battery connected before pv is connected.