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Yeah that converter is what I have just a 20A version. And the cable is what I was thinking about using (or Anderson PP wires). So really just confirming if I did that I wouldn’t F something up since the converter would output 24V while the panel was likely a bit higher… and also that the...

I think it’ll work but confirmation (or calling me nuts) is why I’m here ;-) If I put a PWM controller between the solar panel and the 12v side then the converter should be ok since it wouldn’t see anything higher than the 14.5V coming from the alternator anyway. But I’ll double check to make...

At the moment I’m thinking about the PWM controller sitting behind the 12-24 converter. So from the Bluetti perspective it’s all 24V power. If all I have is solar then it’s 100W max regardless. If I’m driving in a tunnel then I only have 200W of alternator. If the engine is running then...

Ok so I guess my current question is: Are there any concerns with running the solar panel through a $20 PWM 12V solar controller and connecting it into the 12V side of the 12-to-24V DC-DC converter, keeping in mind that: 1. 12V side is isolated from the primary battery when the vehicle is off...

Yeah my assumption on the input was 24V is fine and won’t feed back but I get your point there. Ok so Im thinking one feasible option might be to get a cheap PWM solar controller, run the panel into the controller, and put the controller on the 12V side of the converter into the fuse box. It...

One open question for me is “can I combine different voltages in any of these scenarios, or do the voltages all have to be identical?” Another question is “if I use the 12-to-24 converter to step up the alternator voltage and I also connect the solar panel on the 24V side (so that both are...

Yes the Bluetti only has one input port. That port can accept anywhere from 12-28V. It will limit charging draw to 8A or 200W, whatever is less. I would like to charge from the alternator and from solar, depending on the situation. I don’t want to just attach a 20V solar panel to the vehicle...

I purchased a Bluetti EB70S. Not my ideal power station but I couldn't find anything LFP that had 8A+ DC output options without needing to use the stupid cigarette lighter plug. The EB70S can take 8A @ 12-28V input to recharge. I'm running a 12V fridge and would like to maximize charging. I...

In fairness about 1200w would be ideal. I'd really like to have the inverter shut down rather than blow my 120A battery fuse or my BMS rated at 120A continuous load because I ran too close to the limit. Peak draw is obviously a different beast.

Awesome, thank you

I have a self-built Lithium (LFP) battery in my camper with a JBD/Xiaoxang/overkill BMS that is rated at 120A continuous discharge (and fused as such). The LFP cells could handle 140A continuous/280A peak discharge, but the BMS cannot. What's the largest inverter I can safely run? My gut...

Mine says firmware version 20. It also says manufactured 4/26/21 but I find that hard to believe as I bought it used off ebay on 5/17/21.

The dimensions are in the last chart for a few of the battery types so for those examples you could calculate it based on volume Hadn't noticed the translation but that is hilarious

CATL recommends keeping my battery in the 10-90% SoC range. I think most of the LiFePO4 batteries are similar. However below is my actual battery voltage during a discharge with a <0.01C load applied (which is super low, I know). I started the discharge 24 hours after charging, so the battery...

It's a lot harder in my experience (practically speaking) to prevent charging to 100% than it is to prevent discharging to 0%. For the latter you can always just set your BMS cut-off higher. For the former though using voltage is a poor way to judge SoC, it's difficult to find a charging...

Sort of. Water is your friend if you have a lot of it available to drown the pack and dilute the lithium-to-water ratio. To the OPs original question I wouldn't try to drown a lithium battery fire with a (melting plastic) gallon of water. Water will cool the pack but will react to lithium so...

Oh gawd please don't use water. Lithium + water = chemical reaction + hydrogen gas. You don't really want to mix the two...

yeah. for my purpose they're ok. I have a RV, and I was using a 100Ah lead battery. So ~250Ah of LiFePO4 is far better capacity at the same weight. And in fairness I bought 280Ah cells instead of 200Ah cells because I was afraid all cells wouldn't test out at the spec rate. I knew it was a...

Meh, it depends on your definition of "luck". My "280 Ah" Liitokala cells had 271Ah CATL QR codes right on them. They tested to 262Ah at 0.01C (2 Amp load), which is 1/100th the rated load. I'm sure if I could test at 1C I'd find these were even less capacity... probably ~240Ah-ish. Given...

1. Definitely could be. $50 out of $675 is probably an easy chargeback to deal with. I do agree I'm surprised they put up with the amount of fraud that seems to happen, but then I just assume my surprise is because I'm a westerner and I get all righteous when someone tries to scam me whereas...

If you modified the vehicle title to say "1948" then the buyer gets their $ back in full. If you want the Corvette back you need to pay to retrieve it. At least that's how the law generally works in the developed western world. It might be one thing if the seller mistyped 420 instead of 240...

I have a very US-centric view of the world, even having been to a few other countries in Europe and Asia. But I suspect AliExpress survives because there's a very large part of the world, especially developing countries, that doesn't expect honesty and very much follows a "buyer beware"...

I paid for express shipping on mine back in ~May, but even still they took close to the full time listed. Given mine had what looks like an official CATL QR code, and had an official Liitokala sticker for even high Ah, but tested lower than both, I highly suspect the stuff Liitokala is selling...

tl;dr - My Liitokala cells (from the official AliExpress store) came with only 90% of advertised capacity. Possibly less if I were to put a real load on them. I highly suspect these were used cells. I pulled my Liitokala battery from my trailer for the winter (probably unnecessary but we do...

Other than replacing the BMS, has anyone found a fix for this? Is there a firmware update, or a different phone (or desktop) app which will allow tweaking of how the SOC calc works? I'm doing a multi-day, low draw capacity test on my ~271Ah pack and I got down to 30% last night. Voltage was...

I built a 12V, 270-280Ah battery for about $650 once all the parts were accounted for. If I'd tried to build ~200Ah it probably would've been $550, give or take. So about half the cost of the SOK (though IIRC the BattleBorn batteries I was originally comparing pricing to were around $900 for...

If you want a rigid plate instead of a flexible bladder, just put a plate between the cell and the bladder(s) to distribute the force. i.e. bladder -> plate -> 3.2V cells -> plate -> bladder I personally wouldn't want a flexible rubber/poly-something/etc bladder against a sharp corner of a...

Nice clean build there I prefer the German method of "gutentight"

Ah ok, I wasn't sure if there was a specific compatibility issue or if two differing panels might mess with the MPPT algorithm. His setup sounds fairly small and unlikely to grow significantly. I'd personally start with a single Victron 75/15 and if there was a desire to move to 24V in the...

Thanks. I feel it's decent enough for my purpose, though I don't feel like a great carpenter. FWIW I used some leftover 8020 extruded aluminum rails in order to join the box corners, and that really helped provide strength, and ensure everything is square. 0.5mm thickness seems small to me...

I'm curious why two controllers?

My battery doesn't have any springs or compressible "foam" pads. My compression setup is fixed... Just wood with some threaded rods and lock nuts, and a few very thin plastic sheets between the cells. If I was going to do it again though I'd use the foam sheets. Pic of the innards during assembly

AirLift WirelessOne does this for vehicles with air suspension. I can't recall if that model automatically inflates/deflates for you to maintain a specific PSI or if there's another model I'm thinking of, but the general principle exists, yes. Downsides I've heard: If it's pumping humid air...

It's the Hotel California for the mice, but the rats around the 9:30 mark will have none of it. Rats in my experience are much smarter than mice. They also a profound climbers and jumpers - while a 5 gallon bucket will trap a mouse, doing the same with rats requires a 55 gallon drum... they...

Might work for a stationary setup, assuming it never leaks air and the temperature stays constant. Wouldn't work for mobile installations like an RV, particularly if you go from sea level into the mountains. I can tell you what happens to a sealed bag of popcorn at 10,000'...