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I think it does. I was showing 98% SoC with cells around 3.39v before I changed to the numbers you recommended and it went down to around 78%

Thanks for explaining that Horsefly. I didn’t know what that parameter meant. Set to 215Ah. Also followed your advice on high voltage and temp cutoffs. I don’t understand what those values do either. Hopefully someone will chime in and explain.

Putting a 8s 24v 230ah battery together. Right now I’m doing the quick charge with a 10 amp bench supply and the cells in series with the jiabaida 100a bms (same as overkill) hooked up and set to shut off once any cell hits 3.65v. Then I’ll put them in parallel to do a top balance before...

Thanks! I ended up scrapping most of this plan once I realized that switching to a fully integrated system off the 24v battery bank wasn’t all that much extra work. Here’s the last diagram I made, but it needs some updating. Using the LV 2424 Hybrid instead of the 2724. Going to install 3x 360W...

all manual so no worries with that here. This is great real world advice, thanks. I think I’ll stick with a 40A because the price difference is pretty negligible when compared to lower amp units. However, converters over 40A start to get pretty spendy (at least the models I’ve seen), which is...

The LV 2424 hybrid has a 60A utility charger that kicks in when plugged into shore power and batts are low and solar isn’t enough/producing. I think I can use that function by rewiring the trailer’s pigtail to power the MPP, and using the MPP’s inverter to power the trailer’s AC system...

Ahh good idea checking the amperage on the built in converter/charger. Our RV is old, so no built in inverter. I will remove the ac/dc charger to avoid the battery > MPP inverter > ac/dc charger > battery feedback loop. Batts will be charged with solar and shore power where available.

Thank you very much for all this great info. I had a feeling that going off the total fuse panel value of 100A was a little high. I think where this is headed is that I will start with a 40A buck converter, and run a second 40A converter in parallel if one isn’t enough. I think that should work.

I will soon be installing a 24v lifepo4 200Ah bank and MPP LV2424 in our travel trailer. To replace the 12v lead acid batteries on the tongue, I plan on wiring a 24-12v buck converter into the bus bars that the lead acid batteries are currently wired into (located beneath a coroplast panel under...

I’ll make sure to do that. Already ordered some. Should have included/noted that in the diagram. Will do on putting a fuse on the 12v side. I need to update and make the diagram more clear on wire sizes. Going to use either 8 or 10 AWG for all the PV wiring depending on the final max amps I...

As parts start to arrive, I’m getting pretty close to starting my first solar/lifepo4 build. I’m hoping to get some feedback from you all on my plan and wiring diagram. I have been learning about PV and battery systems on the fly here, so I appreciate any/all feedback. Our travel trailer is a...

I’m leaning 24v primarily because I like the MPP all-in-one’s price point and simplicity. I plan to use the MPP and lithium battery bank in the trailer for only a year and then move the system to my tool shed when we sell the trailer after our trip. So I’ll need a larger inverter for some of my...

Someone will probably be able to give you precise numbers that this rank amateur cannot. I couldn’t find the efficiency rating for the Jackery’s inverter, but even with the most efficient inverters there are going to be some inefficiencies. Same for converting as well. Using the alligator clips...

Okay, okay. This is starting to make a lot more sense now. I had a feeling that inverting 24vdc to 110vac and then converting to 12vdc would have some inefficiencies, but not to the degree you’re describing. Our trailer is 10 years old so I doubt it has a very efficient converter. Time for more...

Thanks! This is all super helpful information. I should’ve been clearer about turning the inverter off when it’s not needed. Assuming I disconnect the tongue battery and the rv’s built-in dc battery charger is turned off, is it just the inverter’s idle consumption that makes keeping the inverter...

I just asked a complicated version of this in the beginners section before realizing this is probably a better place to ask. I’ll try to simplify. We have a 18’ travel trailer that currently has a 200ah 12v AGM on the trailer tongue. I’m building a 8s 200ah 24v lifepo4 battery bank with...

Thanks. I really like you’re build and future upgrade plans. I’m trying to avoid removing the 12v AGM battery that I already have on the tongue. That way all I have to do is remove the solar panels, lifepo4 battery bank, and the MPP all-in-one when it’s time to sell the trailer. This also helps...

Hi all. I’m sorry if these questions have already been answered before. I searched the threads as best I could (where I found tons of great advice) but couldn’t find a thread that’s entirely on point as to what I’m thinking about doing for my build. Also, sorry in advance for the length of this...