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Those are 48vdc led strips from a quick look at the description, so yes, you can directly connect them to the battery via a switch. Highly advisable to fuse it, obviously perhaps.. and it would be better to connect to a bms output to stop the light exhausting and/or damaging your batteries,

Depending on the exact shape, you could have (for example) 4 400w panels, 1600w peak. In smaller panels, it would be about 12 100w panels, so 1200w peak, but you'd have more options around stringing arrangements to suit.

If you mean a 24v or 48v system, yes, this is a good idea. Your panel voltage will need to at least exceed this by a few volts to make it feasible to charge your set. How much roof space do you have? And how much "critical load" do you need to be able to serve? I wish I'd learnt when I started...

I connected my cells together using 50mm csa wire and appropriate ring crimps.. seems just fine to me, tho I'm not drawing crazy amperage in all fairness. Used a hydraulic crimper rather than a hammer, manual, or the time honored vice method.

I have folded over wire loads of times when I haven't had the right size lug or crimp - it's fine. You can obviously cut off the excess protruding wire if you end up with any and tape or heatshrink over the exposed copper.

System voltage yeah... You're thinking 24, which is a lot more practical than 12, but 48v might be consideration too. Think about what your total load would be, and how many amps that represents from your system voltage. Lower amps means you can use less copper, less losses to cable heating...

I don't know much energy $8000 represents, but any energy you can capture and use will be less that you have to pay for =) Your goals sound a lot like my own when I started out, to build something that you can add to over time without having to throw out old kit to upgrade. For this reason, I...

It's outside the scope of my experience if I'm honest, I am sure you are right. I guess my point was, that you can't just chuck a few chlorine tablets in a vessel and expect that to be ok on an ongoing basis. Or just run with a continual low pH and pray that your copperwork doesn't get consumed...

I don't know why you would need to do this, unless one battery is like a start battery and the other is your storage battery? If this is the case, there are charge controllers out there that will do this for you, as used in RVs and the like. Not implying fitness for purpose or anything, but for...

For what it's worth, I made some my battery boxes out of some 10mm polypropylene sheet that I welded together. I allowed for a gap between each cell and on the two sides, and wedged them with some bits of 1mm, 1.5mm and 5mm sheet as needed. It actually didn't take that long, once I'd got all the...

I'm quite sure it's physically impossible to achieve a heater greater than the source..without more work input, say, from a compressor or something. This is a fundamental limit if you're using hot water as the heat source. If it was a steel bucket of sand, you could of course just place it over...

I could be wrong, but I think i've seen one of these before where you needed a temporary short of a few seconds across two of the control pins to turn it on? No doubt someone else here has the same BMS and will enlighten you. Obviously make off the battery connection first and then plug in...

Ok, so I was sad enough to google the heat capacity of sand This may or may not be of interest? It was the top match http://www.hk-phy.org/contextual/heat/tep/temch02_e.html Water holds a lot more actual heat. Also..you don't have to lug it into your house, worry about silica dust when you...

This is actually a very astute point to make

Some immediate thoughts - Sand will have a limited contact surface area to any copper piping/coils/manifold compared to water. It will require more work to put heat into, and extract it from the medium. This will vary with the grade of sand ofc. I'm also unsure how well sand will disperse heat...

I do agree that 5v headroom is actually much more helpful =) The norm i've seen is that if the voltage is close to the limts where the scc will kick in, its likely that input voltage will drop below the range as soon as the panels go on load.

If it's any help, and remembering that this was probably translated from Chinese at some point, I read "Vbat2+V" to mean the battery voltage +2

The MPP range is just anywhere from a minimum to charge the battery (set voltage +2), to the maximum that the charger can safely handle. 3x 38v, after an allowance for temperature, is probably a safe configuration. 4x38v would be "on spec", as a maximum, but is a bit close to the line for me...

This was my first thought as well, and I agree with everybody else who says that an extra inverter is unnecessary and will increase losses and is something else to go wrong. Personally I'd put an in-line fuse on both the + and the - connections =)

@Metero - don't know if you're thinking of repairing the module or not, but I found that these polymer capacitors aren't as easy to come by as ordinary aluminum electrolytics. Also not as easy to desolder, as there are a lot of components commoned together and they will all get hot

You might find a fuse is cheaper than a decent breaker

Being honest here... I had one of these boards that blew two out of the three capacitors off in one line. Turns out... I misconnected the cells. It's how I learnt the importance of metering out the plugs on stuff like that before connecting.

Did you unplug everything, wait for any capacitative components to discharge and and reconnect in the right order? It's certainly important to connect the battery set first so that the controller can recognise the system voltage. Did you hear anything like a fuse blowing or a capacitor hissing...

This was one of my goals also - I started with one inverter, one charge controller and went from there. I'm not saying they're the best out there, but I used the Deye 2kw grid tie inverters - they run off solar or batteries and output "2kw" each, tho I limit them to 35A or about 1750w. But by...

If the panels are the same, and the controller can handle the current from two panels, they can be connected in parallel

That's a whole lot of energy! Quick rough calculations - 2800kWh over 30 days is about 93/94kWh a day. 94kWh over say 4 hours a day minimum is 23.5kWh worth of panels. But.. in Florida they will run hot, and you might not get the maximum output all the time for a number of other reasons too...

Personally I'm not too concerned about the modest voltage of a "48v" pack, I don't wear gloves or anything to put in terminal screws, for example. I do use a spanner that I've put several wraps of insulating tape around, mostly to avoid it shorting against anything like another terminal, racking...

Were they reasonably well balanced before discharge? And how much load are they under? If its the 4.4A as shown in your screenshot, its a fairly low load. I think I have an odd "lazy" cell in my pack that runs a little lower under load, but does recover to more or less the same as the rest when...

Hello one and all! I've been reading bits on this forum for sometime, and have finally got around to joining in. I've looked around at other forums, and neither the activity level, or quality of Qs & As are a patch on this one. Hopefully I will be able to contribute to what goes on here, even...