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Is it possibly balancing the cells? Is it Bluetooth so you can turn the balance on and off?

Sounds like the BMS is shutting off for high current. What is the battery voltage before the bms? Also have you checked individual cell voltage?

I think I would have someone mig welder the studs back on vs drilling and tapping them.

That's ok you'll probably never see 10amps due to line loss. Let it charge until you see 0 amps of charge or relatively close to 0 amps. At that point hopefully your close to 14.6v but after a few hours your battery will rest or float at around 13.6v. I guess as long as you are getting 100ah...

I would use the Amazon charger. It got good reviews. You can also use both chargers at once to charge faster. The two together should give you close to 30amps

Hi

I would use the charger you bought on Amazon and set it to lifepo4 and let it charge to 14.6v.. I read the Amazon listing on that charger and it says it will bulk charge to 14.6 and then float charges at 13.6v. All lifepo4 battery cells I have seen have voltages of 2.5 to 3.65v 4 of them...

I think that is happening because your shunt meter hasn't been calibrated to the correct voltage vs amp hours used. I would leave your radio on until the BMS on the battery shuts off. Then recharge battery to 14.6v and etc that as your 100% charge level.

Well the one they sent you says it's output is 14.6v, so it should fully charge your battery to 14.6v. So that is good. And after fully charging to 14.6v a lifepo4 will have a resting voltage of 13.6v. That is where you want your renogy shunt meter to read 100%. On my shunt meter I had to...

Doesn't sound like your charger is charging your battery at the right voltage. When you are charging does the amp meter go to 0 amps or is it still giving you 2 or 3 amps going in? It should charge to 14.6v and float charge at 13.6v. Once you get your battery to 14.6 volts reset your amp meter...

The transfer switch is to keep you from back feeding power out to the power company lines when power goes out. If you are send out power this could kill one of the workers trying to fix the power lines.

If you have a car Audio installer near by, have them install new ends on for you.

Since the inverter is 3000w the math would say 3000w ÷ 48v = 62.5amps. But I would imagine you have a common port BMS so charger and inverter will use the same wire. And the charger is 80amps. So the 100amp fuse will be fine.

Your battery monitor should be set to these parameters. Renogy battery monitor settings: -Capacity - 100Ah -Full - 14.6v -Zero V - 10.8v -PowerOff - 10.8v (Li Time then told me switch it to 12v just to be safe) -Alarm - 5Ah -Atten - 0.2% Is there a reason you can't leave the charger on all...

That's correct you need to get a different BMS. You need a common port BMS not a separate port BMS.

It looks like the c- is for charging connection. So you connect the negative lead on your charger here. Whether that be via converter or from solar. So this BMS splits the charging and load negative wires.

Quick answer is no. You can parallel SCC to a battery. You can also parallel all charging devices , converter, alternator and solar.

A lot of people have been using chins 280ah they are $649 there is also a $40 coupon on the listing, make sure to check the box. You can parallel upto 4 of them. https://a.co/d/dmie48j

My first thought is how good are the cells balanced within each 48v battery? Did you top balance all the cells prior to assembly? My next concern/ thought is are the jk bms able to be paralleled? You maybe better off building 1 16s4p battery with only 1 bms. Or Two 16s2p batteries.

The inverter also looks like it can operate at upto 15.5vdc. Lifepo4 batteries max voltage is 14.6 so you are good there. You SCC looks like it is programable so you should be able to set the correct charge parameters for lifepo4 batteries. Your solar will top off the batteries so you wouldn't...

Looking at your inverter/charger it is a 12vdc not 36vdc. So I would look at your batteries again. Connecting 36vdc to it will damage it. Common inverter voltages is 12v, 24v and 48vdc, I personally have not seen a 36vdc unit.

Have you tried https://batteryhookup.com/products/4-new-eve-3-2v-280ah-lk280k-lifepo4-prismatic?ref=c-807439&s-id=223971145&utm_source=postscript

Yes that would be 80ah. Yes you will be able to upgrade the BMS on them just make sure the BMS is able to be paralleled to another.

Those cells look like 2500mah or 2.5ah cells. If they are in a 4s20p configuration like it appears in the pictures that would make the 50ah batteries. The BMS looks to small to use for what you want to do. 2000W ÷ 12v = 166.6 amps.

It doesn't matter where you parallel the two panels at. Just make sure the signal wire running to the battery is big enough to handle the combined current from them. 8awg will be needed to handle the combined current.

Yes just hook them both to your batteries as normal. Positive to Positive and negative to negative.

I personally don't have one. So you'll have to research it. From what I've seen on the RV forums people like it. It's connects via Bluetooth to your phone.

You can also buy the Victron smart shunt for $130 it will give you usage graphs and more. https://a.co/d/bZVn1vM

Congratulations on 4th place!!!

I bought the AiLi Battery Monitor from Amazon for $44 https://a.co/d/d9EM3r0 But you do have to calibrate the capacity by draining the battery 100% then fully recharge it. You also inter the calculated battery capacity. The Renogy you have may have to be calibrated the same way.

No. It is just a lithium battery compatible converter. You will need to buy a solar charge controller. The only thing on your RV is the wires were ran from the roof down. They should be marked and inside a compartment somewhere.

Here's a place. https://solarsupplyhouse.com/product/abs-battery-box-for-lishen-272ah-or-eve-280ah-prismatic-cells/

No, your just connecting negative to negative. And it only takes a split second. It just makes the BMS see a voltage so it will turn on. Seen Will Prowse do it in one of his videos.

On a Daly BMS you can simply jumper a wire across the negative post of the battery and the negative lead coming out of the bms so it sees voltage.

Sounds like you've done all you can. Hopefully you can return it for another one.