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First I tried charging up the battery to 13.32 volts, and tried the pre-charge using a resistor; (graphite pencil was all I had on hand, read 18 ohms), but made no difference. Still showed "short" on the overkill app as the BMS tried to start then switched off immediately. Then I replaced the...

Okay, I just let the SCC do it's job for a few hours and (per my friend's suggestion) restarted the phone and the overkill software. Well the inverter seems to switch on and off just fine, no errors or problems. I am of course happy to be up and running, but a little bewildered. I'll run the...

I don't have a CV/CC supply, just an old school charger for FLA. The battery is receiving solar charge from the SCC as we speak, so I should be able to see if bringing up the voltage helps. Thanks for the suggestion. Also, just connected the inverter to a FLA deep cycle battery (showing 12.5v...

This thread title seemed to fit, so hopefully a good place to start. Just reinstalled my 280Ah LiFePO4 battery after winter storage, reading very close to 13v no load. Everything was still how I left it in October, SCC, B to B charger and 1600w LF inverter all connected to buss bars only. I...

Shore power - just a meh-ah-fore innit? LOL! Okay the motorhomers stole the term!

Yes, good idea!

Looks like a nice tidy setup you have. I was tight for space in my caravan, so much preferred the post mounted fuse; no hot spots either!

Not sure if you saw this previous thread: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/searching-for-mega-fuse-holder-that-bolts-directly-to-battery-terminal.62390/page-2 My home-made mount (solid copper) was cheap, easy and works well. I was able to drill exact size holes needed for each bolt (1/4 and...

Not sure if this suits your particular situation, but I found this arrangement easy enough and cost effective (posted in an earlier thread): I found the Blue Sea less available in Canada and therefore costly when adding US shipping. I bought this MRBF on Amazon.ca...

Undercrust, I also found the Blue Sea less available in Canada and therefore costly when adding US shipping. I bought this MRBF on Amazon.ca...

Okay, just switched to overkill, (which I could not find for iphone last year). It was easy to adjust the start value and is actively balancing now. Maybe it'll do the trick. Thanks for mentioning that Okay, just switched to overkill, (which I could not find for iphone last year). It was...

Yes, have read and re-read many times. Just can't figure out the "cycle count"error. I am not very good with this iphone sstuff!

I just checked; looks like overkill now has an app for iphone. Shall try that rather than wrestle with Xiaoxiang. Thanks

Okay, firstly I need to adjust the "start voltage" on the app. I enter the revised start voltage on the balancer (3420mv) but the app will not let me write the value to the BMS - does not retain it. I don't know how to get by the error message. I did purchase the app for $10 CA (iphone). Last...

Hi all, I seem to have a similar issue on my 280Ah 4S battery. I have gleaned what I can reading the above. The fellow here in Alberta who assembled the battery answered my concern with a suggestion: "Yes that is because of the charge curve of lithium, any imbalance will only show up at the...

Thanks for posting; trying to learn all I can on this stuff.

Even though my 160A alternator seems fine (so far) to charge the lithium battery at 40A, I'd like know how much hotter than normal it gets. I had considered using a non-contact thermometer to measure surface temp after charging at full load, but I think mounting a thermocouple and reading...

6AWG already in the plan, and I have 60A fuses on hand, so good to go. Many thanks for the simple answer, PDQ too!

I have 60A fuses either side of my Renogy 40A DC-DC per their recommendation, makes sense according to my own reading of articles, no problems to date. Now installing Victron 12/12/30 DC-DC with a friend. Victron manual says 60A fuses, even for 30A unit (seems too big!) Sure that will ensure...

Because the grounding connection between my truck and trailer has to rely on the seven-pin connector (skinny wire) I realised it would impede the high charging current (40A). I spent the extra money on the 25' isolated ground wire. Probably would not work as well If I had gone non-isolated.

Yes, I researched the hell out of the question, on the forum and elsewhere. Decided there was no way I'd chance charging my 280Ah lithium battery directly from my 160A "dumb" vehicle alternator. Also the DC-DC ensures the right charging voltage is applied over the long wire run. Thanks.

So is your vehicle alternator charging the EG4 Lifepower directly, no current limiting device? Wondering why does it not draw more when the SoC is low? Is it a "smart" alternator that limits the current?

This video is interesting. I have a DC-DC 40A working very well, but I'd be interested to hear other members' opinions on this approach.

Must admit, that range is a little lower than I expected. My searches mostly brought up chatter, anecdotes and vague terms rather than specifics, and no OEM info. When I start towing again in the Spring, I'll be measuring with a non-contact thermometer and sticking with 20A charging if need...

One question I have fielded in a related thread: What are the normal and maximum surface temperatures for a typical stock vehicle alternator? I have just completed a season using 40A DC-DC charger (with "halvable" current switch). The 160A (nominal) alternator seems fine supplying the extra...

Well okay, maybe I have just got lucky with my Renogy charging stuff so far!

Yes, I did consider that option but estimated there was enough alternator "headroom" for the extra 20A (which I can really use at times). When I resume towing in the Spring, I'll either install a thermocouple on the alternator with a readout or check with a non-contact thermometer immediately...

Yes, I was deliberately conservative about ratings and loads. Good point you make about depleting the vehicle battery; something I was less focused on.

Regarding Renogy products, I am sure people's experience runs the gamut. When I was shopping, I knew some people had reported problems ranging from faulty operation to inadequate tech support. I have just completed the first full summer season (May-Oct) using a Renogy 60A MPPT controller and a...

The BMS is the JBD brand, but I don't know about the cells. My battery looks exactly as pictured in the ad. If you respond to the ad I expect Elias will answer you. He seems to be very knowledgeable.

Last winter I was in the market for a battery for my solar powered travel trailer. I decided I wanted 200Ah or more and deliberated long and hard over which way to go. I seriously considered Alberta Lithium and Renogy and compared both options with building my own battery with imported cells...

I realise this thread is quite old already, but thought I'd briefly report back after a full season with the Renogy 40A unit, including a 5500Km trip from Edmonton to northern California and back. Most of the time I had solar power to keep the house battery charged, but as I got into low-sun...

My diagnostic knowledge is not at your level, so trying to understand this better. Would automatic voltage sensing keep the current higher for longer?

Have only seen good comments about AB Lithium so far; good choice. What kind of charger are you using? I am surprised such a short run makes the voltage drop critical.

Glad to hear it is working well, and yes a household fridge ($70 on Kijiji!). When I looked at 4.5 cu ft rv fridges, it was the price ($1500+) that initially tipped my decision to spend the money on the solar installation. At first was a limited success with FLA batteries, but it rocks with...