Search results

The bestek didn't cut it either. Will probably just remove dorm fridge for longer trips without available shore power.

I haven't yet, but I am pretty sure something with 600ish watt surge is fine, I just need the pure sine wave version.

I mean without the right voltage, it won't charge at all. Once voltage is right, you can think of Amperage as the flow of water into a tank (and back out of a tank during discharge).

So I was thinking I would use the LOAD terminals from my renogy Rover MPPT controller. One of the modes is a low voltage cutoff. My understanding is that it will disconnect LOAD terminals at 11.0 V which should work just dandy from a "protect the battery" standpoint. I am not really sure what my...

Can anyone suggest a N/O relay that I could use switched via solar Load terminals to act as a makeshift low-voltage disconnect?

P- should be treated as if it were your negative battery post. B- connects to battery, everything external to battery goes on P-.

May try this next.

No dice. It doesn't send the inverter into an error or anything, but the fridge doesn't start. It pulls like 400W for a few seconds (charging capacitor I assume) and then stops.

These seem like an insane deal on a really compelling battery for an RV... 280AH @ 12V, which could be DIY built for something like $700 with a box and full featured BMS... is there something I am missing here? (aside from not actually NEEDING more than the 125AH capacity I already have)

Hmmm, there's actually some challenges here... Victron manual states: "3. The BP is designed to allow current to flow from IN (battery) to OUT (load) terminals only. Reverse currents from OUT to IN terminals are strictly forbidden, and will damage the device. If you wish to use the BP as a...

Yeah. I don't have an inverter, just DC loads.

I'm using one of these in a travel trailer... Should I be adding a battery protect or some relay switched on mppt's load terminals to prevent over discharge? Is it pooched if it drops to 10v or whatever? Thanks.

So I understand this right... If my solar charge controller is getting power from panels, and the fuse between the battery and the charge controller blows, the charge controller is fried? Seems the options are to leave that wire unfused, use a relay to shut off Current from panels, or... Hope...

It's also not really about "affording" it, it's more about what is it worth to me to be able to run that bar fridge instead of bringing a cooler of beer or whatever. Since we still have a LP main fridge inside.

I mean I try that next... If a $16 turd will run it, I can do that and be done lol.

For $16 I can give the 400W inverter SolarRat mentioned a try. If it doesn't work I'll have to make a decision how much effort I want to expend.

The Kill-a-watt doesn't react fast enough to see the spike.

I'll try it and report back.

The other big challenge with compressor driven fridges is the startup current, which is what I am trying to confirm I can get to work.

Have a travel trailer with an "outside kitchen" that features a 120V, 60Watt bar fridge. I am wondering what the smallest size inverter would be to run this, when figuring the initial startup load? I may end up just replacing with a cooler for as much as it is needed (have LP fridge inside)...

This is to say, does the battery degredation happen throughout the charge spectrum, or do used batteries drop faster at top/bottom of charge? Longer version: I have a Valence U27-12XP which I use as a single battery in my Travel trailer (vacation use). Label spec is 138AH, so using 90% as a...