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FYI.... 15 series 80/20 (1.5" square), is slightly thicker than the average solar panel frame side wall. I'm building a perimeter frame from it to surround my 4 100W panels. It will mount like a roof rack.

Can you set the "Boost" to 13.9-14.0V. Under your conditions, that might be better.

I just crimped some spade terminals on some 16AGW wire. They were the style that has two open "U"s on each. I used the 14AWG position on my MC4 crimpers. I had to crimp each one in two places. They made perfect crimps on them.They rolled the sides over the top. At the other end of the wire I...

I have done 30A & 45A A/PP, 10AWG, 12AWG, and smaller wire. I crimped every one with my fancy German MC4 crimpers. They all fit i n the housings and hold strongly. If it is a different profile, then it is damn close. The only thing missing is the little block that holds the nose of the PPs. So...

Tbe crimper for SB50/PP75A and larger puts one big divot in the tube. I'm going to try my hexagonal hydraulic crimper to crimp my PP120A to 4AWG cables. I can't picture a reason it won't work, but i can't say for sure until I do it.

And you would be wrong. My German made Staubli PV-CZM-32.6020 MC4 crimper crimps 15-30-45A power poles just fine. It takes a little more care to line them up. The shape of the crimping part of the die is the same as A-PP.

They say the memory is the 2nd thing to go. Now what was the 1st thing? I suffer from CRS at times, too.

What were you doing that you accidentally hit the switch? That thing is buried and hard to get to with my big fat fingers. The eraser end of a pencil helps reach it for me.

I'm not sure, but if it is like the voltage limiter, it turns the unit off if it goes over the limit. I don't have a circuit breaker, just fused. On the solar input I have a 11" 10 AGW pigtail, fused on both +/- and terminated with a 45A Anderson Power Pole. On the House and Starting...

FYI. If you download the PDF of the manual and print it on 8.5" x 11", it is easier to read and you can put it in a binder with all the other manuals for your stuff. I wish Kisae would make a PDF of the Flow chart for setting the parameters on one page. I'd take and have it printed on 11" x 17"...

Go read post #33 and the voltage amperage limits. The only problem is if the panels produce more than their VOC rating. Down load the owners manual for the DMT-1250. It lists different figures from the spec sheet. Specs, as they should be...

If he stays somewhere with shore power or has a generator, most RVs have a built in 12V charger.

Exactly. MC-4 connectors are not designed to be taken apart regularly. Anderson plugs are designed to be self cleaning as they're connected/disconnected. Some of the Solar Generator manufactures have decided they make the best choice for their portable panels, too.

Don't combine them on the roof. For the two portable panels 10-12AWG leads and hook them into the circuit at or near the SCC. If you need to, put a small bus bar or terminal for all the solar and then run one set of wires to your SCC. Use the largest AWG your SCC will accept for that last...

Can you mount the panels in a way that they can be tilted towards the sun? How much extra room do you have? Maybe some extra panels you can hang on the side when you're parked. If I find the 400W I have now is not enough, I've thought about getting a couple more and either hang them on the side...

I don't know, his system was keeping up, until he changed the SCC.

My DC-DC/MPPT will only pull 50A total, if I understand the specs correctly. I wonder if you can set a max amperage in his charge controller?

There are multiple 100W Rockpile folding panels. It looks like your Jackery 500 needs a 8mm barrel plug. I would prefer Anderson Power Poles for the 12V input if it had it. You need a cable with the same plug the wall or car charging cable has. I would look at cables that use A/PP for extension...

You may already have one. This style battery water bottle makes filling them real easy. I used them in Gas Stations when I was a teen. Bought one for myself, for my own batteries. https://www.amazon.com/Cycle-Battery-Water-Filler-Bottle/dp/B00NB808P0 ETA: I always replaced batteries in...

Welding or Battery cable. The flexibility helps, too. Roger that on UV rated, too

I bought 25 feet of 4 AWG red/black and copper lugs from TEMco on Amazon for my Starting battery to the controller and from the controller to my house battery. I'm using real 10AWG "solar" wire from my panels to the controller. I'm using 100% copper 10AWG red/black "zip" wire to connect my 12V...

^^^^^ Setting the pack by cell voltage protects the cells in case the pack gets out of balance. In the AH setting, I have it set at 280AH. The first full cycle, the BMS read 0% left for days. The 2nd time I ran a full cycle, IMO it corrected itself and showed the correct percentage. I had my...

Yeah, I think that is what I have set, by cell voltage. I haven't looked at my settings in a while, but I think it's in the cell voltage settings, vs total voltage. IMO, protecting the cells from over/under voltage is important.

I have my BMS set to cut off at 14V on top and 11.5V on the bottom.

If you look at this picture and pretend you need to make a "hard" right or left turn. Because of the spacing on the BMS, you might need to shorten the inside cable by an inch or so. The other way would be running the inside cable over the top of the other two, so it has to travel further to...

^^^^^^ What they said. The length and position around the circle in the lug can change, depending on your layout. It doesn't change the operation of the BMS. The sharper the turn, the more effect it has.

TEMco Industrial is my go to for wiring. They're a vendor on Amazon, too.

I have all 3 10AWG cables in a 4AWG lug or butt connector. Before you crimp them, make sure it flexes the direction you need it to. The position/order of the cables in the connector can make a difference. Put a wire tie around the 3 cables and bend them in the direction you need to run them...

With the Amps set to minimum, you may need to turn the amps up a little bit for the volts to read. Then you can turn it off and connect the battery. It should return to the preset voltage when you turn it back on. If your R/PS is set to 3.65V and you turn the amps to maximum, it should output to...

I didn't say to leave them sitting at Zero Amps for a long time. Just you don't have to be sitting in front of the B/PS waiting for the instant it does.

Once the cells reach the 3.6V setting on a regulated bench power supply, the Amperage should drop to Zero. The R/PS gauges should show 3.6V & 0.0A. Use a DMM to set the R/PS Voltage.

^^^^^^^^ K.I.S.S strikes again... Don't Ya hate when that happens? :rolleyes:

I wouldn't get that exact one, I would take the idea and make my own set up. Plus I would slide it out to the side, not the rear.

Locally on Craigslist I found four one year old 100W panels for $30 each, $120 total. I'm going to run them 2S-2S then 2P. I added up the dimensions and the four together were perfectly sized for my application. Running them 2S, they fit well within the parameters of my DC-DC/MPPT charger. I may...

Look at Zoro.com next time if you're in the US. They had my 80/20 15S extrusion in stock and I had it in 3 days. I bought three 8' sticks of 15S. The part of my order that drop shipped from 80/20 took a couple of weeks.