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Do I need a programming dongle or is it all set. Or will Bluetooth work fine with the supplied password.

I think We killed our BMS. A little back story I built a system for our Avion I used a DC solid state relay to power a 30 amp 12v Dc to Dc converter. My battery is a self assembled Nissan leaf 48v battery and BMS through www.techdirectclub.com that the BMS seems to no longer be operating...

Well the inverter is performing very well and far under my expectations for Dc volts consumption

I had some heater duct aluminum foil tape I used to cover the knock outs. Cheap similar solution.

The open plugs in the bottom were there before I owned the trailer. I may look into plugs later.

The fuse is a time delay 30 amp fuse. This connection is done per code and the knock out is filled with a 3/4" weather proof elbow connector connected to the 3/4" flex conduit run continuous to the inverter input connection.

Here is the modified main CB service

Yes and that is why I said there was no issue. But I still would have preferred to be able to set the charge controller to 58.3 to avoid any fault logging issues. It is a simple programming issue to allow me to set my own maximum and minimum voltage settings. Just look at Victron Energy to see...

I chose the Nissan Leaf not for it's maximum power storage, power output or compact size. I chose it because it's easy to service and repair as well being capable of expansion with the addition of more 48v packs. It also for now has support of an aftermarket BMS and PCB combination that makes it...

Well when I got this trailer my intent was to make something I could boondock with and enjoy Arizona's out of the way places. That is once we finish our house. After a bit of research I stumbled onto Nissan Leaf batteries. You can do 24v 48v or 72v. I decided on 48v to reduce wire size and...

While working on a running piece of 24v equipment and just touching the battery hot wire with one forearm (leaning on the battery or another hot lead) and the back of your our other arm on the fender ground and it will give you a nice little zap. I have done it by accident. Remember if your...

We work with 700v dc systems on the Allison hybrids and I get quite nervous when checking to be sure the electronic safety battery disconnect is working when disassembling components that require removal of the high voltage covers and cables. Getting suited up in multiple layers of thick gloves...

I went 48v and I think at this time it is the best option. There are 48v golf cart inverters that produce 30amps of 12v. Wire size isn't as large for 48v so less cost and less weight. I envision that in the future we will be using 700+ volts DC systems. Cummins makes an all electric platform and...

I should say that one big thing on my deciding to go with Signeer is that the the EVTV guys use them. The extent of my testing will be does it work and does it last LOL. I may open it up to see if anything has shifted or needs more clearance though.

I got the 3000 watt unit with transformers from Sigineer and it arrived yesterday. Man is it heavy on one end lol. I swear everything looks just like an Aims unit all the way down to the remote display unit. I guess I'm the the official test dummy on this one now LOL. I decided that I would be...

Makes sense but you can just put the freezer thermostat back in and go get your warranty replacement and put the fridge thermostat in the replacement freezer.

I think that the power savings of a little freezer is in many respects due to the fact that it does not have a heating element for frost free operation. I also think the insulation is a bit upgraded. A chest freezer is also more efficient due to not loosing it's cold air each time you open it...

Thanks that's what I thought the equalization was doing. I move the cables around to just ensure I don't favor any cell configuration is all. It is easy to do when cleaning the connections once a year.

Well he also said that if a 20' ground point is not practicable ( new word ) then an 8' ground rod must be used in that location and a #6 bare copper wire at minimum will be buried to connect ( bond ) that rod to the main ground point. So I'm going to do that from my home to the shed now. So far...

Also good information! Had I been grid tied I would have really twisted a few brain cells trying figure out how to protect my system LOL.

Well the above will not work with a microwave or anything with a prolonged surge. They had a 3000 watt unit with a transformer that you can set the DC charger to off or lithium battery. Looks exactly like an Aims unit so I'm wondering if they make them for Aims. This one has a 300% surge rating...

Found this one (3000 watt 48v Sigineer PSI3048NC) and if it works properly it is exactly what I'm looking for. Anyone know what their saying by stating that this unit it is "Transformless"? I Think it means they use a bank of capacitors instead of large transformers. It does say it has a 0.5sec...

Anyone have experience with these? Sigineer inverters? They look just like Aims units. https://www.sigineer.com/product/4000-watt-48-volt-110v-120vac-inverter-charger-pure-sine-wave/

My thought was that if your grounds are properly joined or bonded together essentially one ground I believe you are good but hey that's just me. After all the aluminum frame for the solar panels is bolted to the concrete so isn't that also another ground? I did bond the solar mount to the Ufer...

I have a 48v wet Lead acid battery bank with 12 ea 4v batteries. Is there an option for a BMS for charging only? like a 13S 160-200amp charging only BMS. Have not heard of a BMS for this type of battery. Anyone know if this is done on wet lead acid batteries? Just curious because what I have...

I think they either warped and went around rocks or split them and went around them. Either way they went into the ground and became a grounding point. I did however depend on the Ufer ground bar as my actual ground though.

No experience but curious to get more information.

I'm in Vail AZ and can say without hesitation double your battery bank capacity as over time the capacity will diminish and it will live longer if you don't deep cycle it! I used information from a WW2 Submariner when I put my system together and that was his biggest suggestion for me to follow...

All good options. But thankfully I did not have to improvise too much as the ground bars went in after a bit of work with an electric jack hammer.

That's totally on another level LOL. That's how the railroad rails are tied together.

It is a Ufer ground so it is all encased in concrete and that is the preferred method used for dry arid climates like Arizona.

Well I'm considering this MPP Solar unit but just can't pull the trigger. MPP LV5048 Hybrid. Will says it is a good unit and programmible for Lithium batteries... so I'm considering a change in direction. https://www.mppsolar.com/v3/split-phase-lv-series/ I already have a 48v charger and a...

My grounds are like this. The two Ufer grounds are connected together under ground. The ground rod just provides a way to attach clamps for grounding additional components. So like I said it is one continuous ground with a way to attach to it at both the solar array and the solar shed.

They make themselves the most likely to be hit if lightning is trying to arc to ground in that location. This is why I want my equipment to be grounded or the same potential as the earth around it. I live on a mountain so I researched grounding and lightning extensively before beginning to build...

I watched the video and he is not talking about an application such like ours. My solar array is 10' away from my solar power shed and ground mounted. My home is about 100' away from my power center and solar array. My home is grounded independently. So are my solar array and solar shed. All my...