Search results

I had the issue and fixed it with firmware then it came back. I asked for help but the inverter charger board burned up during the slow process to get help. It appears the fan had stopped intermittently. It was within the warranty period. I would recommend you check your history data to make...

I think I found my answer... It is rated for 3000W

I have an EPEVER 6420AN (rated for 60A) but I noticed it always tops out at about 53 amps. There is plenty more power available with 4380W of panels (~75A) and it gets to 53 amps fast and then throttles it there. Is this typical?

The graph on the ShinePhone APP (on my iPhone8) is cropped so I cannot read the amount of power used or produced. It works on my Android devices. I have tried the font size settings with no change.

All my other AIOs stop the AC inverter at low voltage cutoff. They do not stop PV charging. I Am using EG4 BMS com with EG4 batteries. Low voltage cutoff is set to 20%. This is an off grid setup I am not hitting low voltage shutdown or tripping the BMS due to low voltage.

When my EG4 6500 hits low voltage cutoff (set above BMS cutoff), PV charging will not resume without power cycling the inverter. Is this typical? I am using EG4 batteries with BMS communication.

Also, When I connect an EG4 6000 it does not have this problem.

I have a rack of 6 EG4 batteries connected to a 6500EX. When I set it to EG4 BMS communication, the charge current is limited to 20A. Charge current is not limited when set to USE. The battery dip switches are set (binary incrementing by one).

I use different sizes of battery packs in parallel with no issues. They can't get very far out sync since they are all tied to the same voltage.

I bought 4 of the Semplos Mason 280 kits and I am happy with them so far (only 1 cycle on them but working correctly). They took a long time to arrive (~4-5 months) Total cost to build a battery including the cables (~$65 from Semplos, but appear worth it) was about $2700 for 14.3kWh or $188...

I would not use conduit for 24V unless rodents are present. Maybe considder using armored wire if necessary because the price of EMT has gone up so much (more than $1/ft.)

If I were shopping for charge controllers over 100 amps I would get an all in one 48V inverter instead, like a EG4 with 120 amp charging ($1200) and just a couple of EG4 5kW batteries ($1400 each). You could turn the inverter off when not in use for AC power but you will want AC power sometimes...

You should size the bus bars so they are protected by your fuse. The fuse should be sized according the load requirements. The batteries should be sized with appropriate margin.

If you are configuring the batteries in parallel like above, the full 300 amps will only be present on the bus bars between the parallel groups of cells and at the ends.

Keep in mind that the BMS contactors should only open under load in the case of emergency battery protection. Other protective over charging and discharging measures should prevent the contactors from changing states under load ever.

This link has both storage grade and certified automotive grade It also has the datasheets. The LF280K is rated for 6000 cycles at 80%DOD https://off-grid-garage.com/batteries/

I have build many batteries successfully (up to 8p) using this buss bar configuration. While this is the simplest (probably most reliable) and most economical configuration, many people would split the batteries onto three separate BMSs for redundancy and use smaller buss bars/wiring. I...

I just ordered these contactors and BMS for the first time yesterday so I cannot say if they are any good but the other JK BMSs I bought have been great so far. Since they are split port, you will need 2 contactors for discharge and another one for charge. You can use other contactors with this...

I had good luck using magnets in the attic on each side of the rafters while using a compass on top of the roof to mark each side with chalk. After marking each side of the rafters towards the top and bottom of the roof, I pulled a chalk line over each rafter.

No

When I use the ShinePhone or web app, I can set the low voltage cutoff above 50V

Installing batteries in parallel also results in 100A draw (per cell). With that said, I agree with you and would like to spend his money on a huge 48V system!;) Buying a ~5kW stove on a 24V system is like buying an electric car when you only have 120V to charge it.

Sure 48V would be better (if he already had the equipment/$). But he can re-arrange his parallel 24V batteries to 48V later. Also it is unlikely his 24V inverter is rated above 200A and thats with no other loads. Adding more cells is a good next logical step anyways. I don't recommend buying a...

Thanks Thats good to know. Have you checked it in all charging modes and without BMS comm? Maybe a later firmware update will finish this feature.

You should be able to draw 280 amps if your batteries are automotive grade (not storage grade). Most are storage "grade A". You can monitor your cells during a heavy load test to see if any of them slump in voltage and appear out of balance. I think you would asking alot out of a 24v system.

My Daly BMSs balance at 36mA only while charging. They have worked perfectly since installed. They have no settings and I have no reason to change anything. I use them on several batteries over 40kWh each. It sounds like you may have an issue with either your cells, connections, BMS, or...

The cheapest setup I have found is to use a GTIL2 (~$400) current limiting inverter. I use one to run my 240V well (away from the house) and most days it produces 10-12 kWh of power. I use mine with an Epever CC, 5kWh (Nissan Leaf DIY) lithium battery and six 370W panels. My payback period...

With all the high VOC MPPT charger/inverters available now it if far cheaper to just run long PV wire back to the inverter. If you send 4kW 500 feet at 400VDC over a single pair of 10 guage wire, voltage drop will be under 3%.

I have been using the settings and they function as set in the app. Also I can view the updated settings on the inverter panel. I shared your doubts before I tested the settings.

This is how I wired my SPF12000 to automatically switch to util only when the battery gets low (the automatic switch performed by the growatt is seamless). I added a 200A 2 pole switch transfer (knife) switch to select util/solar (I only use it in case of maintenance). It only switches L1/L2 (N...

The 10 second burst current would be 600A x 12 strings = 7200A

8S 12P battery configuration 12P x 200A(2C) = 2400A (continuous) Note: busbars are only rated for 150A so 12P x150 = 1800A (continuous) I agree with using a contactor BMS Be sure to configure your continuous current on the BMS to 15% above what you need. JK makes a 1000A contactor BMS but not...

I have built a few 14S Daly BMS packs. I always use the bluetooth dongle with the phone app or the monitor they sell. Charging to 58.8 is likely above the high voltage cutoff and will cause it to disconnect from your battery and your charger cannot reconize the battery voltage. Then it should...

Does anyone have experience with larger panels (over 300W) in a mobile installation? I have heard people talk about issues with cracking, but wonder if it's really an issue.

75w Frig 75w Freezer 50w Inverter 100w All other loads 300wh x 24 hours = 7200wh/day PowMr CC 85% effecient Inverter 85% effecient AGM batteries 85% effecient Winter solar output 75% A minimum system to barely meet his expectations during only good conditions: 5 to 7.5 kWh of batteries...