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Exactly..... Screw this .. tired of explaining to morons!

Your an idiot too!

Are you a Chase employee? I make many multi thousand purchases and Chase has never questioned or called me before this bs transaction.. they suspected this was bogus. You cannot sit back and hypothetically tell me what Chase or whoever pulled this BS would have or did do unless your physic...

Look... They have my CC number, exp date and code. Are you that naive?

No brains.... Correct..... You!

Well if the vendor has no means to reject a payment the someone acting or working for the vendor rejected the CC since I had not dealt with anyone else up to that point!

Look... Eco now had my CC number or someone claiming to be Eco. They declined the purchase. Do you expect me to tell Chase I made this purchase? Wanna buy a bridge!

You make a purchase when you give the vendor your CC and they accept it! If they reject it the payment you have not made a purchase. Eco worthy rejected my payment by saying it was fraudulent. My CC company asked if I made the purchase. Prose thinks I'm not being fair.... What bs!

I think these are thermal breakers.... They will trip with load and time. Loads near the rating will trip them over time especially in hot ambient temperatures.

Vendor rejected the card but then processed the payment apparently and the bank asked if I had made this transaction and I said it was rejected. That's not how this worked. Immediately, within seconds, the card was rejected on the eco website. I cancelled the order and 10 minutes later I get...

Direct

Cc company is bank....

It was rejected on the eco website and about 10 minutes later from the cc company asking if I had made the purchase which I didn't because eco rejected it!

Now you know it takes time to get a new card and lots of inconvenience. What a PIA. Use Pay Pal or something other than your CC.

I sure you know that the condition of the start capacitor can have a big effect on the starting current. I've replaced mine a few times over the years....

200 amps thru a jk bms.... Sorry I took so long. No indication of a reply

Why is T1 and T2 NA?

Worry Wart!

30 bucks a month from our local co-op here in Southern CO.

Stating it doesn't make it right. Show us!

Good idea but remember adding in series would not require larger wire just pay attention not t exceed voltage rating!

Get a dehydrater and jerk off!

RO filters make it drinkable they say!

Looks like a copy and paste job to me!

I have been directly involved in the UL certification process with UL staff on my company's site.....not impressed!

Why not.... The paper work is there to back it up. Sounds like a "woke" bunch of inspectors and they need a wake up call!

When Signature Solar stops charging sales tax for Colorado shipments!

That's my point....

Stick with the hookers and booze!

I assume you are referring to the battery ground or negative conductor. You are correct in saying the shorter the better. It probably should terminate as close to the largest loads as possible and if it's the engine starting neg cable it should terminate on the starter or close on the engine...

I have a H175 out of service. Some parts available. Like a EZ200 regulator board, led array and wire harness. Dump load. Diodes and some mosfets.. cheap or will trade stuff!

I have 600 feet of shielded twisted pair wire in a 2 inch conduit along with the 2/0 triplex and various other stuff running from the house to the pump house. No problem! You can use Cat 6 network cable too, good quality stranded Cat 6 work!

Signal wires need to be shielded twisted pairs. Belden makes a bunch.

So you now have twice the usable kwh's!