Feedback on Class C RV diagram

[Mash]

First off, I apologize for putting up duplicate info as I continue to get confused and educated by looking everyone else's diagrams.

I have a 2003 Winnebago Minnie and am wanting to get it ready to be able to be able to boondock for short periods of time. Like a week or so. I don't plan on becoming a full timer but will want to be able to work remotely, so I will need to power a laptop, wifi router, Weboost, TV, Fridge running in propane mode, and fans. Going to swap the FLA batteries with Lithium and move them to a storage compartment just next to the existing open air battery compartment.

I have some equipment already that I have been gathering with is what it is, I am sure not the best in the world but I didn't know better. I have in boxes: an upgraded converter/charger for the RV that supports Lithium batteries, 2 x 100 ah LiTime 12v LiPo batteries, Renogy DCC30S (DC-DC w/MPPT) charger, and a 1000W pure sine inverter.

I would love feedback and hope to get to the install next month.

 

[fratermus]

The DCC30 has a max solar input spec of 25v so the 4x100w will have to be parallel.

 

[Mash]

The DCC30 has a max solar input spec of 25v so the 4x100w will have to be parallel.

Thanks

 

[HRTKD]

Are you sure you want only 400 watts on the roof? I would think that you could easily get 600+ watts. I had originally planned on 4x200 on the roof of my trailer. But I test fit those panels in a CAD drawing and I couldn't get any more than three panels. I switched to two 320 watt panels that fit perfectly.

I would ditch the Renogy DCC30S, primarily for the reason that fratermus stated. It also has a limit that when both solar and alternator sources are active, they split the input, each to a max of 15 amps. If your solar is putting out only 1 watt, that still means that your alternator can supply no more than 15 amps.

A dual pole DC circuit breaker is recommended for between the PV and solar charge controller.

When sizing fuses or breakers, use the maximum continuous amps multiplied by 1.25. 40 amps continuous x 1.25 = 50 amp breaker or fuse.

Also, be sure to use a wiring size calculator so you get the right size cable. My preferred calculator can be found at:

Interactive Wire Size Calculator

Battery Chargers, Inverters, Solar Components, and Wiring Supplies for Boats, RVs, and Off-Grid Applications.

baymarinesupply.com

 

[Factsmanmp]

First off, I apologize for putting up duplicate info as I continue to get confused and educated by looking everyone else's diagrams.

I have a 2003 Winnebago Minnie and am wanting to get it ready to be able to be able to boondock for short periods of time. Like a week or so. I don't plan on becoming a full timer but will want to be able to work remotely, so I will need to power a laptop, wifi router, Weboost, TV, Fridge running in propane mode, and fans. Going to swap the FLA batteries with Lithium and move them to a storage compartment just next to the existing open air battery compartment.

I have some equipment already that I have been gathering with is what it is, I am sure not the best in the world but I didn't know better. I have in boxes: an upgraded converter/charger for the RV that supports Lithium batteries, 2 x 100 ah LiTime 12v LiPo batteries, Renogy DCC30S (DC-DC w/MPPT) charger, and a 1000W pure sine inverter.

I would love feedback and hope to get to the install next month.

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I too was considering 100 w panels on my class c but leaning towards (2) 365 w panels because of the roof area.

 

[Mash]

Are you sure you want only 400 watts on the roof? I would think that you could easily get 600+ watts. I had originally planned on 4x200 on the roof of my trailer. But I test fit those panels in a CAD drawing and I couldn't get any more than three panels. I switched to two 320 watt panels that fit perfectly.

I would ditch the Renogy DCC30S, primarily for the reason that fratermus stated. It also has a limit that when both solar and alternator sources are active, they split the input, each to a max of 15 amps. If your solar is putting out only 1 watt, that still means that your alternator can supply no more than 15 amps.

A dual pole DC circuit breaker is recommended for between the PV and solar charge controller.

When sizing fuses or breakers, use the maximum continuous amps multiplied by 1.25. 40 amps continuous x 1.25 = 50 amp breaker or fuse.

Also, be sure to use a wiring size calculator so you get the right size cable. My preferred calculator can be found at:

Interactive Wire Size Calculator

Battery Chargers, Inverters, Solar Components, and Wiring Supplies for Boats, RVs, and Off-Grid Applications.

baymarinesupply.com

Thanks, sadly, I am committed to the DCC30S since I already own it :-( I wish I knew more about it before Renogy convinced me to get it vs. seperate DC to DC and MPPT units. If it limits it sounds like I will have to consider swapping the unit out for two separate units. Also sounds like i will have to throw the break between the panels and charger when driving.

 

[Generis]

OR.. you could leave the DC to DC you have... and disconnect the solar input, which you can run to a new controller for solar charging. Leave the DC charger on the alternator and you'll keep your 30a charge while driving, regardless of the solar input.
Adding a new solar controller is the only additional thing required.

 

[bedpan]

Thanks, sadly, I am committed to the DCC30S since I already own it :-( I wish I knew more about it before Renogy convinced me to get it vs. seperate DC to DC and MPPT units. If it limits it sounds like I will have to consider swapping the unit out for two separate units. Also sounds like i will have to throw the break between the panels and charger when driving.

The MPPT function of the Renogy DC2DC is really just an addon feature. It is still cheaper then other 30A DC2DC chargers and in a pinch can do some solar for you as well.

As @Generis says all you need to do is add a MPPT (recommend a Victron here). They are not a lot of money and will buy you a lot charge capabilties.

Then you can keep the Renogy for mainly DC2DC charging with a Victron MPPT for your Roof mount panels. If you want you can add a couple small panels you can drag out of the shadows and use the MPPT on the Renogy for those.