diy solar

diy solar

Looking for some advice

TWaite

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Joined
Apr 24, 2023
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Gettysburg PA
Hello, I'm new to solar but I have been trying to do my homework on it. I'm looking at building a system that I can add to over time. I have been looking at some components off of Amazon and would like some advice if you all think this is a good way to start. (Please see attachments) Can you see any reason why these wouldn't be a good starting point? Thanks for any advice you can offer
 

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What is this going into/on?

Flexible panels aren't that great. A standard panel is going to produce better and last longer.

Renogy isn't a top tier vendor, but if you're looking for a decent brand at a lower cost, it's a good way to get into solar with fewer frustrations.

I'm not familiar with that battery brand. Look over Will's videos on YT for his take on different batteries.

 
That flex panel kit will not deliver the stated wattage. You can figure a panels wattage based on the size. At the best a 1 meter square area panel (not bifacial) will have 23% efficiency (more often 21%) of the 1000w/sq-meter or 230w. You can figure ~200w/sq- meter since the size of panels are outside dimensions so you lose a bit around the borders.

The SCC with them is basically junk.

I would recommend that you buy rigid frame panels and a more dependable SCC such as a Epever, MakeSkyBlue, Renogy or Bouge. Probably your best bet for panels cheaply are used if you are local for pickup. There are several listed on Ebay. There are also quite a bit of new panels you can get on Ebay with free shipping just be careful of wattage claims until you do the math on area. Seems to be a lot of dubious panels being marketed right now.
 
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We have that inverter, flexible panels (on top of a camp trailer roof) but not that battery.

What I've read about the Redodo battery is it seems to have more or less decent reviews (people like it because it's cheap), BUT it doesn't have low-temp charging cut-off protection. If there's ever a chance that your temps could get near or below freezing, skip all the cheap batteries that don't have low-temp protection (and some that claim to have it do not work as advertised, as Will Prowse shows in his tear down videos that @HRTKD linked to). If you charge a frozen or partially frozen lithium battery, you will cause irreversible damage to the battery.

The 2000W Renogy inverter has served us well, but I would not buy it again. It also comes with woefully inadequate cables, you would want 2/0 cables like these. I think we got it on an "open box" deal from the Renogy ebay store, so it was a good deal, but what I don't like about it is the high idle draw. Which means that when it is simply turned on and not actually powering anything, it uses 24W. Which means that if you leave it turned on 24/7, you will use (24w X 24hours)=576 watt-hours. The Redodo battery you show (and any other 12v 100Ah battery) contains 1280 watt-hours (Wh) of energy. Which means if you simply have the 2000W Renogy inverter turned on, without it powering anything, it will use 45% of your battery in 1 day! We have a small fridge that we need to keep on 24/7. Now if you have enough solar panels and big enough charge controller to account for that, it's not a big deal, but you could save some money (with fewer panels and smaller charge controller) by simply getting a different inverter. It will also save you on not needing to buy quite as big of a battery bank.

There are more efficient inverters out there (more $) but in general...the bigger the inverter, the bigger the idle draw. a 1000W inverter will draw roughly half of a 2000W one, but like I said, some inverters have lower idle draw for the same wattage, because they were better designed/built.

You will often read that newbies first buy an inverter that is too small and regret it. Well, it can go the other way, too...you can buy an inverter that is simply too big for what you actually need and use. If you want a bigger inverter simply because you might want to run something high powered one day or might want to feel free to run multiple 500W devices at once, then you will pay for that every day in an inverter that has a high idle draw.

The cheapest way to reduce the idle draw is to buy a smaller inverter. If you do an "energy audit" (instructions found elsewhere on this forum or google), you will have a better idea of what each item you intend to run from the inverter will use. If it's something like a space heater, those typically draw 1500W, without a big startup rush of current (like an air conditioner or fridge). If you intend to run a typical fridge (that doesn't have one of the newer/fancy 'inverter compressors'), then while the fridge might only draw 100W or less when running, it can use 800 to 2000+W when it first starts up for about 1 second. If you don't have one yet, get a Kill-a-Watt type of meter and run your devices on it for a while to get an idea of how many watts each device uses.
 
Hello, I'm new to solar but I have been trying to do my homework on it. I'm looking at building a system that I can add to over time. I have been looking at some components off of Amazon and would like some advice if you all think this is a good way to start. (Please see attachments) Can you see any reason why these wouldn't be a good starting point? Thanks for any advice you can offer

Also, I looked into the "800W Solar kit" you posted a screenshot of. $269 for 800W panels, a PWM charge controller and some short wires. That's very cheap. I would doubt the rating/durability of such cheap panels and a PWM controller, while it technically works to convert solar energy into electricity, is just not really worth it IMO now that MPPT is a thing as it is so much more efficient. It's such a cheap kit it might be worth the gamble, if it would serve your needs. It would let you play with stuff solar stuff for a while, but I wouldn't necessarily depend upon it since it's so cheap and probably pretty low quality.

Also a 400W flexible panel is going to be HUGE and it would be way too easy to be handling it, to have a gust of wind come along and twist/bend it in such a way as to crack or damage it. They ARE flexible, but seem happiest if you do not flex them. Our 100W flexible panels are securely installed on a trailer roof, so no wind can get under them. Where are you planning to mount these flexible panels?

Now our 100W flexible panels seem to be holding up so far after 4 years. But for about 9 months out of the year, the trailer is under cover, protected from rain, snow and sun. Reports are you're lucky to get 5 years use from flexible panels, compared to 15-30 years for rigid ones, but in our case, the panels are not in the sun and exposed to the elements except for a few months of the year. Now I didn't want originally to use flexible panels, due to their lower efficiency and lifespan, but in our use case they made the most sense due to the unique nature of our roof (it's a homemade wooden thing and was concerned of screws ripping out at 70MPH with rigid panels).

If you do decide to look around for rigid panels, you might consider used ones, which can sometimes be found for free or very cheap, because people decide to upgrade to the latest/greatest thing, whereas their used ones are still in very good shape.
 
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