vevor 3kv : Smoked : anybody want TO BUY IT £50 ? OR REPAIR it for me ?

[Koincave]

Hiya
totally gutted,i managed to smoke my vevor mppt 3kv
hoping someone can recognise symptoms or suggest a repairer ( Uk )
I don,t have a guarantee as i bought second hand and support for
repairs of vevor products in Uk seem to be non-existant
this is a total garage project with never any intention to tie to grid
6 x 270 watt panels on garage roof
So it was working happily for the week before i was stupid
then i was stupid !
i believe i tried to pull too much power / ampage out of it
caused melting of wire at batteries and now its DEAD
Attach solar : nothing , dead , attach batteries : nothing : dead

Attach AC and the screen cycles on and off
I have opened it , cant see any obvious type fuses

Anybody recognise these symptoms ? repairable or do i have an expensive doorstop ?

 

[Mattb4]

Do not know about Vevor models but some of these do have a fuse coming from the battery terminals. It is located under the wiring cover plate.

 

[Koincave]

Do not know about Vevor models but some of these do have a fuse coming from the battery terminals. It is located under the wiring cover plate.

thanks for taking time to reply

pic attached

no obvious fuses to my eyes sadly , that would be too easy

 

[SamDeleted]

Vevor are a cheap brand , no support like you've seen


Hope you can get this sorted mate , very sad for you

 

[DJSmiley]

Vevor is just some seller relabeling stuff, don't expect much in terms of support.

Also this worries me:

Too much power / ampage out of it caused melting of wire at batteries

Apart from getting a replacement, I highly would recommend connecting it properly. This should never be possible if the wires were properly sized AND FUSED.

In this situation you might have triggered this yourself, but if that would have occured without supervision the smoking unit won't be the last thing to smoke...

 

[Koincave]

Vevor is just some seller relabeling stuff, don't expect much in terms of support.

Also this worries me:



Apart from getting a replacement, I highly would recommend connecting it properly. This should never be possible if the wires were properly sized AND FUSED.

In this situation you might have triggered this yourself, but if that would have occured without supervision the smoking unit won't be the last thing to smoke...

the manual indicated 12 awg , thats what i was using but i was stupid pushing it too far
im also a novice to solar and electrics playing in the garage which is far way from house

as i was just testing ( playing ) i hadnt put an inline fuse in it yet

 

[SamDeleted]

the manual indicated 12 awg , thats what i was using but i was stupid pushing it too far
im also a novice to solar and electrics playing in the garage which is far way from house

as i was just testing ( playing ) i hadnt put an inline fuse in it yet

Lesson learnt ! Lol

 

[SamDeleted]

Fuses are important

 

[400bird]

That's frustrating, sorry to hear that you smoked it.

How much power were you pulling from it? Is the rating 3kw as the name suggests?

 

[Koincave]

That's frustrating, sorry to hear that you smoked it.

How much power were you pulling from it? Is the rating 3kw as the name suggests?

Ok , i was stupid , i only had 4 x 12v car batteries wired to it ( wired as 24v) , i was playing
I was drawing 300w constantly and for 3 days and all was fine
so i doubled it for half a day to 600w , it was fine , then 1500w all seemed fine
then i think about 2800w and it started screaming and the battery wires melted

i have been investigating , it looks to me like this is the same as many other units
with identical LCD screen and identical manuals , some of the manuals do not even have
branding but all identical , fault codes identical across multiple brands , however might is only
coming alive now when i attach AC power and it does not get chance to tell me fault , i think
thats a special fault code of im fooked

I am hoping as there is ZERO life out of it when i attach solar or battery that a fuse has blown
somewhere , but i dont want to start dismantling it any more until i know more

 

[400bird]

the manual indicated 12 awg , that's what i was using

Ok , i was stupid , i only had 4 x 12v car batteries wired to it ( wired as 24v) , i was playing
I was drawing 300w constantly and for 3 days and all was fine
so i doubled it for half a day to 600w , it was fine , then 1500w all seemed fine
then i think about 2800w and it started screaming and the battery wires melted

Despite what the manual said 12 awg can't support 2800 watts at 24 volts, that's over 100 amps.

i have been investigating , it looks to me like this is the same as many other units

That would not surprise me, there are lots of rebrands out there, where the "manufacturer" just pays to get their stickers and color scheme put on someone else's products (for example EG4)

But there should be some overload protection built into the inverter. Can you see anything burnt inside the inverter? Do you still have good battery voltage at the inverter?

 

[Mattb4]

Ok , i was stupid , i only had 4 x 12v car batteries wired to it ( wired as 24v) , i was playing
I was drawing 300w constantly and for 3 days and all was fine
so i doubled it for half a day to 600w , it was fine , then 1500w all seemed fine
then i think about 2800w and it started screaming and the battery wires melted

i have been investigating , it looks to me like this is the same as many other units
with identical LCD screen and identical manuals , some of the manuals do not even have
branding but all identical , fault codes identical across multiple brands , however might is only
coming alive now when i attach AC power and it does not get chance to tell me fault , i think
thats a special fault code of im fooked

I am hoping as there is ZERO life out of it when i attach solar or battery that a fuse has blown
somewhere , but i dont want to start dismantling it any more until i know more

Ouch. Yeah I think it is toast. Many of the cheaper inverters can not maintain their rated output (even with proper wire and fuses) for very long.

 

[50ShadesOfDirt]

Buy another (used) one, of same model, and use this one for parts ... it's now a learning opportunity!

Void the (non-existing) warranty, open it up, and learn from it and/or harvest parts!

 

[Koincave]

Despite what the manual said 12 awg can't support 2800 watts at 24 volts, that's over 100 amps.

That would not surprise me, there are lots of rebrands out there, where the "manufacturer" just pays to get their stickers and color scheme put on someone else's products (for example EG4)

But there should be some overload protection built into the inverter. Can you see anything burnt inside the inverter? Do you still have good battery voltage at the inverter?

the solar panels and batteries are still working fine when tested with multimeter

when i attch the following to invertor ....
batteries : nothing
solar input : nothing
AC power : Lcd screen cycles on and off

 

[Vigilant24]

Just to review the bidding: Have you thrown away those 12AWG wires? It sounds like you've run 100+ amps through them, and they could be totally burned through in more than one spot. On a happier note, they may have served as a fuse to protect your inverter. If you are running 2800W output through the inverter , the cables will need to support 2800w/20V (low voltage cutoff)/0.8 (estimated inverter efficiency at that voltage) = 175 amps. Check elsewhere, but I think that would typically require a "2/0" AWG cable. That's what you'll need to use between your batteries and between the batteries and the inverter, and It'll be MUCH beefier than the wires you were using. And, as others have said, put a fuse between the cable and your positive battery terminal.

If the Vevor (inverter/charge controller) is still showing signs of life when plugged into the AC line ("mains") supply, then perhaps it's just that you've burned through the wires to the battery and/or a fuse inside that unit. If it thus can't "see" the battery, it doesn't know what voltage to use for the solar charge controller, etc. So, it's possible the unit isn't toast--yet. Getting a proper manual for the device would be the first step.

 

[Koincave]

Just to review the bidding: Have you thrown away those 12AWG wires? It sounds like you've run 100+ amps through them, and they could be totally burned through in more than one spot. On a happier note, they may have served as a fuse to protect your inverter. If you are running 2800W output through the inverter , the cables will need to support 2800w/20V (low voltage cutoff)/0.8 (estimated inverter efficiency at that voltage) = 175 amps. Check elsewhere, but I think that would typically require a "2/0" AWG cable. That's what you'll need to use between your batteries and between the batteries and the inverter, and It'll be MUCH beefier than the wires you were using. And, as others have said, put a fuse between the cable and your positive battery terminal.

If the Vevor (inverter/charge controller) is still showing signs of life when plugged into the AC line ("mains") supply, then perhaps it's just that you've burned through the wires to the battery and/or a fuse inside that unit. If it thus can't "see" the battery, it doesn't know what voltage to use for the solar charge controller, etc. So, it's possible the unit isn't toast--yet. Getting a proper manual for the device would be the first step.

When im back up and running i wont be playing too much likely 600w or less and will be taking advice from here on the correct wiring , batteries etc ............ in the meantime before i click buy on another unit

the manual is pretty generic to a lot of units , useful if the thing turns on , mine no longer does

http://qiniu.vevor.net/20200313144136403.pdf

i was hoping someone here had overcome this problem with a similar unit

 

[Vigilant24]

AC line voltage, it

When im back up and running i wont be playing too much likely 600w or less and will be taking advice from here on the correct wiring , batteries etc ............ in the meantime before i click buy on another unit

the manual is pretty generic to a lot of units , useful if the thing turns on , mine no longer does

http://qiniu.vevor.net/20200313144136403.pdf

i was hoping someone here had overcome this problem with a similar unit

FWIW, page 5 of the manual gives their recommendation of cable sizes. which would be two 8AWG cables. From what little I know, I think their recommendations may be a little undersized, but I'm no expert.

 

[Koincave]

AC line voltage, it

FWIW, page 5 of the manual gives their recommendation of cable sizes. which would be two 8AWG cables. From what little I know, I think their recommendations may be a little undersized, but I'm no expert.

the Ac should be 12 AWG, i thought to myself this is a bit thin , when i used for both
I used lot thicker for connecting the batteries , but no for the lead to charge the batteries from the
charge controller

No luck here with anyone with experience on these yet , looks like i shall have to strip it all
down tommorrow and try and troubleshoot with the little knowledge i have

 

[Rednecktek]

AC line voltage, it

FWIW, page 5 of the manual gives their recommendation of cable sizes. which would be two 8AWG cables. From what little I know, I think their recommendations may be a little undersized, but I'm no expert.

You mean 2x 8awg on each leg, right? You'd need at least really good 4awg to support that kind of amperage, 1/0 would be much better from the batteries.

 

[Vigilant24]

You mean 2x 8awg on each leg, right? You'd need at least really good 4awg to support that kind of amperage, 1/0 would be much better from the batteries.

I dunno what they meant, I'm just reading the text from the manual the OP posted. #8 AWG can carry 50A, so if there were two sistered together they could carry 100A if everything worked right. I agree that even for a short run at 100A most sources would recommend one cable of #2 AWG.

 

[Koincave]

Must admit im surprised with machine being so generic and widespread im surprised no
one has more info on this board.

Anyways im striping it down rather than send to landfill

if you look at original picture above you may see there is a hard pvc clear cover
within the unit , when i took that off i got a clue where something might have
went wrong .... ( pvc covered in smoke residue )


im gonna dig deeper , save me

 

[Koincave]

So under the floating top board i found a bank of fuses they are not like
a car , even though they look like car fuses they are soldered on.
Visual inspection they seem ok , guess i should continuity test them !?

 

[Mattb4]

So under the floating top board i found a bank of fuses they are not like
a car , even though they look like car fuses they are soldered on.
Visual inspection they seem ok , guess i should continuity test them !?

You might be getting somewhere. I recall that an inverter I bought years back came with several of those types of fuses as spares. The only problem was the ones on the circuit board are soldered on (like yours) so I wondered why they included them.

Hopefully you can just solder on replacements if one or more is blown and get back in business.

 

[Koincave]

You might be getting somewhere. I recall that an inverter I bought years back came with several of those types of fuses as spares. The only problem was the ones on the circuit board are soldered on (like yours) so I wondered why they included them.

Hopefully you can just solder on replacements if one or more is blown and get back in business.

Im 50/50 on that ...............

I need to test those fuses but i currently have lurking concerns .... the smoked out PVC
was next to large heatsink with a microprocessor or 3 on it , something caused that smoke !
looks like a minor explosion type smoke , im not holding out much hope changing fuse
will save this board ( its kinda hidden away moment , need to strip more out first ...... tick tock tick tock

EDIT : all fuses checked and fine.

 

[Koincave]

I think im upto about 40 screws from taking the case cover off to remove this motherboard, phew

I have FOUND the issue (or one part of issue , who knows it might have damaged components further down the track ) , i shall upload images in a moment or two in the next thread for anyone else in the future with a similar board looking for problem, it was kinda hidden away under a heatsink

I managed to blow apart a G042N10 transistor and i "think" ( hard to see ) a little resistor that sits in front of it
the transistor costs pennies $15 for ten on a brief google search , but it will need to lie here for a month or two for me to
figure out the resistor and get parts and plug up the courage to get a soldering iron out.
The poor wee thing has been destroyed , those of a weak disposition should not open images in due course
At least i got to bottom of it .......................
https://www.ebay.com/itm/194961866658