Fridge advice and guidance.

[RoadTurtle]

My Norcold has turned into a Nevercold
.
I'm looking primarily at the conversion kit to add a compressor kit to my existing fridge. Second choice may be replacing the whole fridge with a RV specific 12v compressor fridge. Third choice might be a residential fridge. I'm leaning to 12v over 120v, but shouldn't be an issue managing either one.

Several questions, with the conversion kit, how good are they at holding temps? What is their typical 24 hr run time?

What changes have members of the tribe made, and why did you go with that type?
Not terribly worried about capacity, 600ah battery, 1200w solar.

 

[justinm001]

Absorption fridges take a ton of space for all the absorption part you're losing inside the fridge. I'd definitely go with residential fridge if you leave your inverter on. I have the massive one below and have a smart outlet on it. Average consumption is .22kWh/day this week and .34kWh/day for past 30 days. Currently using only 1.5 watts! Past 30 day total consumption is 10kWh. Don't think the winter matters much as we keep the RV at least 55 inside.

BTW mines fridge only as we have an electric cooler in basement if we want icecream.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/frigidaire-professional-19-cu-ft-single-door-refrigerator-stainless-steel/6536971.p?skuId=6536971&utm_source=feed&ref=212&loc=19610478632&gad_source=1&acs_info=ZmluYWxfdXJsOiAiaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYmVzdGJ1eS5jb20vc2l0ZS9mcmlnaWRhaXJlLXByb2Zlc3Npb25hbC0xOS1jdS1mdC1zaW5nbGUtZG9vci1yZWZyaWdlcmF0b3Itc3RhaW5sZXNzLXN0ZWVsLzY1MzY5NzEucCIK&gclid=Cj0KCQiAh8OtBhCQARIsAIkWb6_26x68LJ6dVAYpdWBQVmTHKWYm0CyqevKfuMmAltiihnFxuawh8oYaAnDTEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[TacomaJoe]

I want to keep an eye on this thread as well. I have a functioning absorption fridge running now but looking at future replacement. I like the idea of the compressor fridge because it will get me a bunch more interior space and fit in the same hole. The 12VDC or 120VAC question is a little tougher. I think the cost of the AC ones is lower than the DC ones and then factor the conversion loss of the inverter. I too am fat on batteries so that isn't an issue.

 

[RoadTurtle]

I want to keep an eye on this thread as well. I have a functioning absorption fridge running now but looking at future replacement. I like the idea of the compressor fridge because it will get me a bunch more interior space and fit in the same hole. The 12VDC or 120VAC question is a little tougher. I think the cost of the AC ones is lower than the DC ones and then factor the conversion loss of the inverter. I too am fat on batteries so that isn't an issue.

I'd much prefer 12v, because even on FHU, I let solar manage batteries, instead of MP keeping them charged full time.

 

[justinm001]

I'd much prefer 12v, because even on FHU, I let solar manage batteries, instead of MP keeping them charged full time.

I don't get it. The 12v fridge would drain your batteries when on hookups and no solar instead of just pulling from shore.

The only real reason for going 12v over 120v is if you don't keep your inverter on all the time or if you're constantly boondocking with limited batteries and the few percent of conversion losses make a huge impact.

There's 100x more fridge choices and much better quality if you go 120v. You do need to be careful some might have large startup loads but I'd assume those are the cheaper models.

I'd also be concerned of voltage spikes frying a 12v fridge. But maybe thats just me as I had an alternator cause a spike and it fried a bunch of electronics in my coach. At least with 120v through a MP you have clean filtered power.

 

[sunshine_eggo]

After finding solutions on the order of $1600-2000, I replaced my double door 12cuft Nevercold (cooling unit failure) with a $400 magic chef 10.1cuft unit from Home Depot. I am absolutely thrilled with it. It uses 0.8kWh/day, and the greater depth makes the fridge more usable than the double door ever was.

My wife was VERY hesitant at the perceived loss, but she absolutely loves the replacement.

 

[sunshine_eggo]

Absorption fridges take a ton of space for all the absorption part you're losing inside the fridge. I'd definitely go with residential fridge if you leave your inverter on. I have the massive one below and have a smart outlet on it. Average consumption is .22kWh/day this week and .34kWh/day for past 30 days.

Those are impossibly low UNLESS it's the cold ambient temperature (55°F isn't comfortable for most folks). New energy guide numbers are now based on never opening them, but operating in 90°F ambient.

Your consumption is much higher in "shirtsleeves" conditions, i.e., when your ambient is 70-80°F, your consumption will be close to the energy guide label with "normal" use (multiples openings per day).

I have mine on a smart plug too with data back to May or June. In July, we were burning energy guide numbers with almost no usage, i.e., doors were not opened daily - maybe 2-4 days/month when we were there.

 

[justinm001]

Those are impossibly low UNLESS it's the cold ambient temperature (55°F isn't comfortable for most folks). New energy guide numbers are now based on never opening them, but operating in 90°F ambient.

Your consumption is much higher in "shirtsleeves" conditions, i.e., when your ambient is 70-80°F, your consumption will be close to the energy guide label with "normal" use (multiples openings per day).

I have mine on a smart plug too with data back to May or June. In July, we were burning energy guide numbers with almost no usage, i.e., doors were not opened daily - maybe 2-4 days/month when we were there.

Yeah idk what it is when warmer I switched to a plug that measures energy about a month ago. The kasa app shows past 30 days so I'm assuming it was over a month. Here's my interior/ambient temps. We use the RV basically every weekend and many days I'm in there tinkering on random things so opening the fridge a bunch to get drinks. Energyguide shows it at 218kWh. Here's my internal temps and the sensor is right by the fridge. Last weekend while camping it was like 7degrees outside.

Maybe its because of low temps, maybe because of fridge only, maybe just built well, or its possible I have it connected to the wrong device or its inaccurate. I'll double check to make sure its right, I have zero intention of ever turning the fridge off just figured good for future programming.

 

[sunshine_eggo]

Okay, this is a reality check for me. I didn't realize it was fridge-only even though you explicitly said it, and linked it.

That's pretty impressive. I guess it makes sense that maintaining mid 30's°F is easier than maintaining near 0°F.

I guess I should have been more aware of it as we have a large dorm fridge-only at the house, and that thing uses very little power in 73-78°F ambient.

 

[wme]

I don't get it. The 12v fridge would drain your batteries when on hookups and no solar instead of just pulling from shore.

When your on shore power the RV converter supplies power to the 12v side of the rv. So in effect your your 12v fridge is running on 120v shore power and not your batteries.

 

[Partimewages]

Are you wanting to convert to the JC Refrigeration unit?

 

[justinm001]

When your on shore power the RV converter supplies power to the 12v side of the rv. So in effect your your 12v fridge is running on 120v shore power and not your batteries.

Yeah but @RoadTurtle said he turns off his inverter when on shore and solar charges batteries... meaning batteries power fridge

 

[RoadTurtle]

When your on shore power the RV converter supplies power to the 12v side of the rv. So in effect your your 12v fridge is running on 120v shore power and not your batteries.

Converter is turned off when on 50a shore power. All 12V runs off of battery and solar ONLY charges battery. When boon docking, I would convert 12v to 120v and back again to 12v.

Are you wanting to convert to the JC Refrigeration unit?

That's my primary option

I replaced my double door 12cuft Nevercold (cooling unit failure) with a $400 magic chef 10.1cuft unit from Home Depot. I am absolutely thrilled with it

Thanks Eggo I've seen that a lot... I would lose the decorative wood panels on the door, but wife said she would accept stainless door. The fridge only is an interesting option, because we do carry a portable 12v compressor freezer, and in a complete surprise to use, we purchased a RV lot in AZ, which has a 25cuft fridge in the very large storage shed.

There's another interesting point here, which I'm still diagnosing. Every time we defrost the freezer, temp comes down for "awhile" to normal temps and then creeps up again. Today, I shut the fridge off for an hour, then turned it back on... Temp in Freezer is rapidly falling. Fridge is coming down slower, but that's normal behavior. I'm going to do the same thing tomorrow morning and see how it does. One RV mechanic friend suggested disconnecting 120v plug tomorrow morning too. He said it's a long shot, but wondered if ripple could be impacting the system. Highly unlikely since I'm on shore power for 120v, but won't hurt.

 

[FLD]

Our camper has an Everchill 11 cubic foot 12-volt refrigerator/freezer which consumes 4-5 amps when the compressor is running. On average, it runs 30 minutes of every hour.
It's been replaced once under warranty. At $1400, I'll replace it with a 120-volt unit and inverter from a big box store if it fails again.

 

[eXodus]

There are a couple of advantages to the absorption style.

First on propane, their electric power use is a rounding error. They use about one gallon of propane per week.
That means a regular tank is about a month+ of boondocking. They also keep working when you are low on solar. Winter or under trees.

Second, they are silent, does not apply for all RVs but mine is a the end of my bed. A compressor fridge has a noise. It's not terrible but it is there.

Third. When you are plugged in an abortion fridge works on electric, or you can use 12v on some models. So you have redundant power sources. While with a compressor fridge if that one power source goes out - you loose the content of the fridge.

All in all they still have a use-case which is heavy off grid use.

 

[justinm001]

There are a couple of advantages to the absorption style.

First on propane, their electric power use is a rounding error. They use about one gallon of propane per week.
That means a regular tank is about a month+ of boondocking. They also keep working when you are low on solar. Winter or under trees.

Second, they are silent, does not apply for all RVs but mine is a the end of my bed. A compressor fridge has a noise. It's not terrible but it is there.

Third. When you are plugged in an abortion fridge works on electric, or you can use 12v on some models. So you have redundant power sources. While with a compressor fridge if that one power source goes out - you loose the content of the fridge.

All in all they still have a use-case which is heavy off grid use.

Couple things. In an RV Absorption fridges are pretty loud if not perfectly installed and designed. They're only rated for like a difference of 30deg of OUTSIDE temps and aren't great AR consistent temps. Most manufacturers have roof fans to help with the heat dissipation which can be as much power usage than an electric fridge.

They're a lot heavier and take more space, need vent and exhaust holes in the rv which then need more room for insulation.

But they are great as long as you're within their specs and propane uses so much less energy

 

[eXodus]

In an RV Absorption fridges are pretty loud if not perfectly installed and designed. They're only rated for like a difference of 30deg of OUTSIDE temps and aren't great AR consistent temps. Most manufacturers have roof fans to help with the heat dissipation which can be as much power usage than an electric fridge.

yeah you can not fix RV manufacturer being cheap and not reading the guidelines to install absorption fridges correctly. Not failure of the technology.

For reference, there are four "climate classes" for refrigerators. They are as follows:

SN*(Subnormal) suitable for use under ambient temperature range of*10 °C*~ 32 °C*(50 °F*~ 90 °F)

N*(Normal) suitable for use under ambient temperature range of 16 °C*~ 32 °C*(61*°F*~ 90 °F)

ST*(Subtropical) suitable for use under ambient temperature range of 18 °C*~ 38 °C*(64*°F*~ 100 °F)

T*(Tropical) suitable for use under ambient temperature range of*18 °C*~ 43 °C*(64*°F*~ 109 °F)


My Dometic Absorption fridge- properly installed - NOT in a slide out - with side vent in and roof out - is perfectly silent and works in 100F humid heat in Florida and keeps everything frozen at decent constant temperatures. It has some trouble cooling things down when you freshly load it. But as soon as it hits the setpoint it stays there for weeks. It is not swinging more then my regular cheap 120V house switch.

Compressor fridges are much more forgiving on a bad install - very true.

 

[eXodus]

They're a lot heavier and take more space, need vent and exhaust holes in the rv which then need more room for insulation.

you still need to vent a compressor fridge if you do not want the A/C have to expel the heat as well.

 

[FLD]

To clarify my earlier post, I'm very happy with the 12-volt refrigerator's performance. Our camper has a 500ah lifepo4 battery bank, 760 watts of solar panels on the roof and a 60-amp mppt solar charge controller so energy consumption isn't an issue. The refrigerator is very quiet as it has a brushless variable speed 12-volt AC compressor.
If this unit fails again and can't be economically repaired, I'll install a 120-volt refrigerator freezer instead of paying $1400+ for another 12-volt fridge.

 

[Rocketman]

In 2019 on a trip back from Alaska, my parents 4 year old NeverCold leaked all the ammonia. My dad got the Amish replacement but decided to stay with propane. We put it in- was not a hard job - but 2 people needed.

When we went full-time I didn’t want our 22 year old NeverCold dying at a bad time - and it wasn’t working super well - old doors, seals, etc.

We went with a Residential. Because of unique size in the MotorHome we went with a Fisher & Paykel counter depth model (no ice maker). It was a little taller and narrower. (Had to move the furnace down to move the fridge floor down- but it all fit!

We leave our Multiplus inverter on 24/7 so that wasn’t a factor. I added another 400w of solar and that about covers the fridge use (unless it’s cloudy- then it’s generator time).

The residential fridge gave a LOT more room inside for food. Also it keeps the fridge temp very stable - (the NeverCold fridge temp wandered during the day), and the freezer is actually cold - ice cream is perfect!

It has worked perfectly for 2+ years so far…

I would NOT NEVER EVER go back to an absorbing fridge - and neither would my wife.