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Finished the hardware installed and wiring today (did I mention I really HATE drilling holes in my bus!). Flipped the disconnect back on and it all works. Went to about 700 watts on a pretty cloudy day. Have 3 nurserts I’m going to have to replace, but took it for a test drive and nothing...

Here’s an interim pic. Shelf rails not installed and not where it’s going to be in the final install. Just needed to test it out before I built the rest out.

Testing out the ground array. Getting around 2kw with no aiming and some clouds.

I’m sure there are somewhere on Reddit, but I’m too lazy to go find them. Its a 1999 bluebird with the 5.9 Cummins (24 valve ISB) and an AT545 transmission. It tops out around 65 mph but does get around 10 mpg.

Yep. Run it off a predator 3500 all the time. When running it (only) the genny reads a ~1200 watts. But I know they consume a lot more than that at startup. The inverter seems to be doing fine. It’s the battery that is tripping. Going to try the second battery when the parts come in. If that...

I do sometimes tow my 2 dr Jeep Wrangler. Maybe a roof rack and some ratchet straps / padding?

It went away, but can’t say I know what solved it.

It’ll be a full 3d model of the bus and the panels with different front and side wind speeds. Since it’s a freebie, I’m not sure if we’ll get all the detail in there, but should be good enough to know if I’ve got issues. I’ll post the results here when I get them.

Ah, got it. The Diesel is 12 V(olts). The Solar / House battery system I am installing is 24V. Hence the 12V (starter / alternator) to 24V (house battery side) DC to DC charger. And I totally screwed up adding that it was a "24V" Cummins...too much cross posting on bus forums. In this case...

Yep - that was the video that triggered my question.

I have a growatt 3000 24v in my skoolie and love it. Took it out for its first real test last weekend and it performed flawlessly. I have ~1600 watts of solar on the roof and used 1000 watt ground array and I was able to run AC and lights and microwave whenever I wanted for 5 days in the heat of...

Yep that one. So I have it set for lithium battery in setting 5, which allows for comms with the BMS, but also locks setting 12 and 13 (both to 29v). I guess I can change setting 5 to user and then reset those.

Solid point on the potential for an oscillation. I know the voltage relay has a timer function. Wondering if I can use that to delay the opening of the circuit until a voltage drop would have recovered? Will dive into the doc on it and see what's possible there. I have the inverter connected...

Roughed in some more of the 120 and hung the inverter temporarily to function check everything. Pulled the wires that were running to the starting battery from the 12v block (it was used as the leisure battery too) to hookup to the 24/12 Orion once it comes in. Installed the ground array...

Got the second EG4 hauled out and installed temporarily. Going to add some spacers so it’s not sitting right on top of the other one. Added the fuses to the lynx. Still thinking about what to use to cover the breaker and common negative. Probably work on the ground solar array next and start...

Yep, when I hook mine up to the growatt and setup BMS comms it sets the voltage to 29. I’ve got a problem with my batteries clearly.

All welded up. Now for a week of grinding,sanding, painting and priming.

Yep, was planing on fusing each string with its own MC4 in line fuse. They are all going into the same charge controller.

It'll look something like this (with different materials):

The subject pretty much sums it up. I've been running my 2x24v EG4 batteries with my Growatt 3000 24v AIO for the last year or with the BMS comms connected, but recently expanded my array and so have been taking a closer look at the data coming off the system via solar assistant and am...

Sorry to revive a slightly old thread, but came across this searching for the same issue. I have the Growatt 3000 24V hooked up to two EG4 LifePower4s setup setting 05 set to LI (05) so the AIO is communicating with the battery BMS. I noticed that once my battery gets to 100% that any loads...

Also temporary ;-)

Yeah the 2x3s about killed me. Appreciate the heads up on neutral ground bonding and have read filterguys docs. Honestly still looking for a good link to a continuous duty relay to use.

Sorry for the jargon ;-). Skoolie =school bus conversion. It's a 37 foot / 11 window 2000 international bluebird. The battery compartment is completely isolated from the engine bay - it sits under the driver on a slide out tray (as I think is pretty common for large trucks and busses?) and...

Max amps will be 45 (Isc) of all strings combined at 74V (VoC). I think that is well within the capabilities of that IMO.

How so? Lots of large trucks and busses use two 6V batteries in series for a starter battery. (My F250 uses two 12V batteries in parallel). I think it has something to do with delivering higher CCAs to start the bigger Diesel engines.

I got around this by setting the min operating at 20% of battery (growatt connected to battery BMS) for shutoff. That way if it shuts off, there is still some power left and if I need to "limp", I can power it up (it doesn't check % while its it startup mode) then change it to something lower.

Yeah, was gonna just cover the "top", which would allow a "reach around / under" to switch off power.

I have two 24v 200ah 5.12 KWh EG4 batteries from signature solar that I am getting ready to install in my skoolie. Two questions: Has anyone ever mounted them “vertically” with the handles / posts pointing up? I don’t think it would be an issue, but wanted to make sure before I build a simple...

Hmm. So guess I’ll combine downstream of the disconnect.