Recent content by andrewl04

Unfortunately my Keystone’s prewired consists of a Zamp plug near the tongue only. No wiring going to the roof. I agree it would be good for more RVs to have it done; even as a paid option.

In case anyone is interested I emailed Dacian about my plans. My questions and his answers are below. He also made two other observations based on reviewing my diagram regarding v and c from v4 of my plans above. d. Do I need a SSR to allow the Electrodacus SBMS0 to isolate the PV input from...

One more Electrodacus question: How do I take care of low voltage protection? It seems something like a Victron BatteryProtect is needed since the SBMS0 can’t physically disconnect loads from the battery itself. Is a SSR better or even an option? ETA: I’m actually realizing this might be a deal...

Updated the diagram again (PDF attached and embedded as JPG) to incorporate feedback to date. I still have ANL fuses off my positive bus bar for now; still working out if I will switch those to a MRBF setup like the Blue Sea 5196. Although I doubt I wll ever need it the 5196 is limited to 240a...

I remember reading some of that class T thread. Escaped me when I did my diagram/planning. Any thoughts on this one (Xantrex holder + Littelfuse 300a fuse)? A lot less than Blue Sea’s class T 300a. The Blue Sea 5196 looks like a good option for my bus bar needs. The only issue I’m seeing is...

I had seen some talk of this but wasn’t sure if my setup would benefit from a class T. I guess when it comes to the inverter it wouldn’t hurt. Thanks for the suggestion. Are you thinking something like the Victron Lynx distributor? Anything cheaper that would work effectively? Ok thanks...

Thanks for the tips on the breakers. My 12v loads are fairly small. Thanks for checking. One slide is biggest single 12v load. I was planning on a 40a 24v to 12v converter. I will mount it right next to my existing DC distribution/fuses. I’m hoping to re-use the 6AWG run from there to original...

Good to hear about the DIN breakers. I haven’t seen a lot of them around here so good to confirm they are a good option. Thanks Is a dual pole necessary for the solar inputs vs. just the positive? Dual needed for safety/maintenance isolation? Correct, not a fifth wheel. It’s a 32’ Keystone...

Makes sense. Any safety concerns by not being able to isolate the shunt from the battery? Or in the rare occurrence I need to do something there I just disconnect the battery itself? Thanks

I updated the diagram to reflect the above correction for the battery shunt location. Please see this version and NOT the one in my first post.

@HRTKD I may have missed your valid point at first read... the shunt should be closer to the battery on the other side of the bus bar. I’ll fix that. Thanks!

A bit odd I realize but that is actually by design; from the SBMS0 manual (see step 4): The Battery current shunt is mandatory as it is needed to calculate the battery SOC (State of Charge) and gets connected to Battery+ terminal on one side then on the other side to a fuse or circuit breaker...

I am close to finalizing my plans for my travel trailer. This will be my first full install so I want to check myself. I have tried to incorporate all the best practices I have seen on this forum. Thanks in advance for your feedback. I have attached my plans as a PDF. (Happy to share the...

I am getting ready to put together a very similar setup. Related question about the Growatt 3000: Do I need a a relay to isolate the DC input from my panels too? The comment about needing a SSR for the AC input side made me think I might need them on both so the SBMS0 can control all input to...