Why is everybody talking about running all of this massive current through the BMS?
Why not connect the inverter directly to the cells with a relay that the BMS can trigger? I thought that was the standard way of hooking up really big loads?
Thought it was time for an update. I have been using the Epever inverter daily for all of my cooking and running the hoover and my laser printer. Everything working perfectly. However I have not truly put it through its paces because it's still in a temporary configuration where it goes through...
Running a bit behind schedule with the project, I'm afraid. Moving permanently on to the boat just now so the system is still not all hooked up. Waiting on the last few components arriving.
Will definitely report back, and sorry to hear that you've had trouble with the Victron.
I don't know how much help this is, but I used rigid underlay, sold for laminate flooring. It's pretty stiff with decent compression strength. I had a bunch left over from flooring my kitchen. Two years later my pack seems happy enough.
I promised to update after a few months of use, and forgot. So...
I'm afraid it's not good news. The Epever inverter worked perfectly in daily use for about nine months, driving loads up to about half its rated output.
Then one day the BMS shut down due to over-current (120A limit) and...
Thanks all.
I will likely go with the smaller controller (actually given the prices involved I may go with two 20A).
My experience of trying to add panels to an existing setup has been that a couple of years down the line I could no longer get an exact matching panel (in my case, thanks to...
Thanks again for the replies. I wasn't aware of problems with Renogy, I recall Will giving them a decent review and saying they were a bit more user friendly than EPever.
Just for context, the plan is to take the boat out of Scotland for a few years of full time cruising. Certainly down to...
The inverter I'm considering doesn't have a remote panel, it has a port for an actual remote switch. It also has a rocker switch on the unit itself, so I think I should be OK using a small SSR rather than needing a larger relay carrying the current.
I'm a bit limited in bandwidth just now so can't watch video, but no the Vango definitely does not boil water in a matter of seconds! Must have been sped up. However like all induction hobs it is highly efficient, and because it produces almost no heat outside of the pan itself, nothing burns on...
The hob is called a Vango Sizzle. It's got two 800w burners. Fits perfectly on top of my existing gas hob, and even the pan clamps work with it (after a little bit of bending to raise them up).
It's obviously not the most powerful but you only really notice that when doing a stir fry or steak...
Thank you, I'm glad that I have a starting point now to build up a system from.
I'm aware of the limitations of the BP, and I know there are other options available (SSR, latching, and N-O relays).
No sorry it's not off grid, I didn't word it very clearly!
I *currently* live off grid, on a boat. Just mentioning that to show that I do have some familiarity with PV.
But I'm moving back to my house, which is on grid, and want to add PV there.
I currently heat the water using direct electric...
There is supposedly a type of memory effect with LFP, where the voltage rise usually associated with reaching full capacity starts to happen earlier and earlier, if the cells are not fully charged. Whilst the cells have not permanently lost capacity, this effect will fool chargers into thinking...
Not sure. I'm in the UK. I'm aware that anything above 4kw needs DNO approval if you wish to export.
Obviously I'll get an electrician in if that's required.
It seems to be working now. I have no idea what I did to get it to work.
The only thing that comes to mind is that the cells were up at 3.6v from doing the top balance a day or two ago. Is it possible that this triggered some kind of shutdown?? But surely the BMS would still have let me in. And...
Yup I'm pretty familiar with the discharge graphs for FLA, usually you get C5, C10, C20, C100 etc figures. But I thought that was a peculiarity of lead-acid (Peukert effect?) and didn't apply to lithium chemistries.
Going FLA wouldn't be the worst idea in the world, and would obviously be much...
So after a bit more research, I'm thinking about putting together a 60Ah pack in a rugged waterproof case, with external stud terminals.
The motor draws a bit less than I thought-it's 696w, so only goes above 60A if the voltage is down at 11.6v
For a BMS, I'm pretty confused. I know I will need...
Well I do need to buy the last few components, and due to my location it will be mail order for pretty much everything. So yeah I kind of need to know what breakers, fuses, bus bars, enclosures, etc to buy, and how many of each.
I'll modify my sketch to show the MPPT wired up correctly. I'm not...
Thanks. Even the really cheap units tend to have these, but the preset values are a bit wide, especially LVD which is usually just 10v. Mind you I'm finding the LVD for the Daly might be the same value so it would be a toss-up which one would kick in first.
A Victron battery protect has a 12v...
Thanks, sounds like I shouldn't push my luck. It's not easy for me to order cells or another BMS- I'm a live aboard cruiser so don't have an address and don't stay in one place for more than a week or so.
But I think I will try to get my hands on a 200A JBD and then use it as my primary BMS...
OK be gentle... and I do apologise for the quality of the sketch!
I haven't included cable sizes yet, but I need to measure how long the runs are before I make that decision.
There will actually be two separate sets of PV/MPPT but I've only included one just now, for clarity.
I also haven't...
A slight complication that I left out: those 2x100w panels are going to be powering the old lead-acid system when the boat is on passage, and rewired to the main LFP system the other 90% of the time. I'm planning to use a Victron Smart 75/15 to make it nice and easy to change the settings when I...
Thanks. I've got a good length of 10mm2 left over from another project, that should do most of the longer runs (although it's too big for MC4 connectors?). The big worry is obviously hooking up the inverter to the cells, I'm planning the whole layout around the need to minimise that distance...
Thanks, that sounds like a fairly fundamental error on my part... which is exactly why I'm on here seeking advice ?
Believe it or not I did a few practise sketches on paper before posting that diagram...
Now that you point it out, of course charge controllers don't just sit in line with the...
At $20 I wouldn't bat an eyelid.
But the usual price around here is this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/FUSE-300VAC-CLASS-400A-CYLINDR/dp/B08251BYXK/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=class+t+fuse+400a&qid=1625583735&sr=8-1
(in case the link doesn't work, that's £98, or $135)
With a bit of digging around...