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I’m planning on installing my own Grid Tie solar system and the last thing I need for my application is a Site Plan. So I went to this website https://www.solarelectricsupply.com/solar-contractors/create-a-siteplan looked at their examples and used one to make my own site plan. I’m doing this in...

Should look something like my old set up but instead of the inverter you’ll have the all in one

That sounds about right as long as you don’t have any shading issues that could make an entire string of panels useless.

And hopefully you have the right size/gauged large wire to carry that much current if you’re going to combine 2 panels in series by 10 parallel. Or a lot of smaller gauge wire if you’re planning on combining it closer to the charge controller.

Umm…no? Although, if you’re offering to give my a 6 foot fan if I say yes, then, yes sir, it is!

As long as your battery has enough Amp Hours and the DC appliances don’t pull over 40A, you should be good to go!

Yes, connect them in parallel with fuses and Vanner volt master 100 amp equalizer in-between. Do this experiment with a DC clamp meter capable of measuring up to 300 amps. 1. Connect the Alternator (270 amps) -> 24v 8D starter battery (measure how many amps are going into the starter battery...

I bought some and am thinking of making something out of pretreated lumber and “replacement knobs” from Lowes.

I’m wondering if your device would be just the thing to power a sand battery off of… On a slight tangent, I just spent $80 on a 48v DC to 12v DC converter advertised as 720 watts of output but it only has 360 watts of output before the voltage sags to a voltage too low for my equipment (11v)...

You just have to be very careful not to exceed the maximum amps that the one battery bank’s BMS will allow.

Thanks to Tesla and ipandee it’s possible to build one. https://tesla-cdn.thron.com/static/UMDJDV_North_American_DC_Charging_Connector_Datasheet_HTKQS6.pdf?xseo=&response-content-disposition=inline;filename="North-American-DC-Charging-Connector-Datasheet.pdf" You need enough panels to supply...

What are you planning to power with your micro grid? Or what loads will you be putting on it?

When you figure out what you want to do with those panels these guys have a nice selection of grid tie/off grid inverters. https://sunelec.com/solar-fire-sale/

Good luck with that!

With this battery and a 200 amp fuse, you should be just fine! Redodo 24V 200Ah LiFePO4 Battery with 200A BMS Lithium Battery, Max. 5120Wh Energy Capacity, 4000-15000 Deep Cycles & 10-Year Lifetime, Solar System Back-up Power, RV, Trolling Motor etc. https://a.co/d/3QGmETT

With this battery and a 200 amp fuse, you should be just fine, you could just put it in parallel with your SLA batteries without the need for the charge controller between them. Redodo 24V 200Ah LiFePO4 Battery with 200A BMS Lithium Battery, Max. 5120Wh Energy Capacity, 4000-15000 Deep Cycles &...

I’m currently working on one of the batteries @JWLV gave me from @Will Prowse and it’s looking pretty interesting :)

Or even better this one! It’s an RV application so closer to yours. Web page blog: https://www.google.com/amp/www.beginningfromthismorning.com/dc-power-part-1/amp/ Video:

You already have one. You can plug the battery cables into the solar input of your mppt solar charger and your lithium battery on the battery side. Alternator -> AGM/SLA Battery -> Solar mppt -> Lithium battery Check out this video at 15:27

It’s not unheard of to get more than 30ft in a motor home, but I’m sure it can be kept under that.

Okay, so what it comes down to is how efficient do you want your system to be and what is your budget? Every option spoken of above will work and I mean every option including multiple charge controllers. The more efficient you want your system to be, the more work you’ll need to put in (DIY)...

Okay I’m putting about 200 watts of load on it to see how it reacts to that. Running a couple of fans at their highest setting. 14-15 amps at 12-13 volts. So far it’s bulging a little more lol but it’s staying steady at 13 volts with 30 volts PV at about 1.5 amps. I do believe the other cells...

I think you’re good to go brewman as long as the fuse block connected to that converter pulls less than 50 amps at 12v which is roughly 25amps @ 24v that fuse of yours shouldn't pop. Oh, also as long as your converter can handle an output of up to 12v at 50 amps and just in case you do pull 50...

Alternator -> 24v 8D starter -> relay isolator (on/off with engine) —> 24v lithium batteries -> inverters - house loads

So do some math, what will get you more power on a 1 hour drive? Solar panels or alternator? You could do both if you get another charge controller.

There should be links to the devices in the description of the videos that I linked. As long as all of your 12v appliances do not exceed 10 amps you only need one converter. Depending on the actual number of appliances, you may need a larger 12v fuse block than the one used in the second video.

Or a relay isolator should do the trick too. Alternator -> 24v SLA -> relay isolator (on/off with engine) —> 24v lithium batteries -> inverters - house loads I think using a charger in between the batteries is somewhat safer, but I’ve seen both ways, but no one’s ever compared the two that I...

Care to share what battery cells make up your 24v battery? If you have access to the individual cells you should definitely try to charge the one that is low with a bench top power supply. You definitely don’t want to hook up your red ark dcdc 1250D lithium charger without a BMS inbetween unless...

Voltage does not always mean current. If your batteries are at full capacity you will see the voltage increase, but it’s most likely that only half an amp or less is going in. Your shunt will not know whether the solar or the Dc-Dc charger is adding power to your battery bank. If you would like...

You would need to run it through a transformer. Most people split 240 into 120, but I think it can be run the other way as well…