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This kit is marketed as a solar upgrade kit for an RV or Vanlife van. GoPower is the big "name brand" in RV solar and is working deals with most of the major RV manufacturers to get "solar prep" packages, design to be used with their components, pre-wired into new RVs. That is probably about...

I tried my inexpensive, relatively low-tech refrigerator on my older 1500W Xantrex X-Power inverter and it ran, but the compressor was noticeably hotter to the touch than when running on the grid, so I only did it for a few days as a test. I'm not sure a 3-500W MSW inverter would even start the...

I'm not doubting that the phenomonon that they are describing exists, and that their products effectively manage the situation, but their test seems to be biased in that they used a relatively small pulley on the motor, and a relatively large pulley in the alternator resulting in alternator...

With the popularity of RV boondocking, I have a lot of interest and I think there is a decent sized market for effective DC high efficiency mini-split AC units for solar powered mobile applications. I think the OP's idea is more applicable to the mass automotive market, but I'm not sure how big...

That is the chassis alternator and starting battery for the motorhome. I initially planned to use a charge controller with integrated DC-DC charging, so a prior version of my diagram showed connection to it. I left it on the diagram in case I decide alternator charging is helpful. I do have...

A couple notes on the last few posts. With regard to the charging current, remember that these numbers are per battery. If you have 2 in parallel, the a 1C charge rate is 200 amps and the "sweet spot" for 2 in parallel is 90-110 amps. So with multiple batteries in parallel, there is not...

That seems like a decent chart to use as a starting point, but as MrSandals mentioned, you need to use all of the information as a package. Wire size is just as important as fuse size. The fuse is there to keep the wire from going into thermal runaway and starting a fire. Notice on that chart...

Are you talking about setting the samlex to limit charging to 25a or the mppt controller? Many mppt controllers don’t allow you to set a current limit, but at 540W, you should be under 25a at max output anyway. I’m not sure if the samlex charging current can be set that low.

After the 1st time I tried to get the screws included with my cells to work with a double bus-bar, I knew that I would end up stripping some, no matter how careful I was, so I shut my project down for a couple days and ordered the 25mm long set screws recommended in other threads. If I had...

I am just starting to dig into the complexities of this, but as I understand it, the mini-split systems use variable speed compressors and fans to match the AC output to the load. The unit may draw a lot of power when 1st cooling down a hot camper, but quickly drop to a fraction of that power...

The switch between the 250A fuse on the terminal block and the inverter is intended to allow me to cut power to the inverter. The 250A fuse is to overload protect the inverter feed.

I looked at the MidNite website, and maybe I'm missing something, but I didn't see much that would be useful in adding solar to a travel trailer or a van conversion. It looks like MidNite is all about residential solar and I didn't see many pieces that looked like the building blocks of an...

Yes, that is the most basic math :-). Even at 640W, you would probably be below 25a because the battery voltage is somewhat higher than 24 and the panels would only produce full output under theoretical perfect conditions. The specs I saw on the Samlex 2224 was for up to 70a charging, I don’t...

I think the idea is that the fuse should be as close to the battery as possible. The terminal block is as close as I could get. :) i think the thought is tat every inch of wire between the battery and the fuse is unprotected and represents risk.

You could probably get by with a 20a MPPT controller and still get full production on warm and overcast days, but the cold sunny days you will lose some output. A 30a SCC will give you more certainty of getting the most from the panels. With those panels, I'd probably look for a SCC with at...