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i don't know where to see where balancing starts. supplier said to flaot at 55.2v, so i fugure that has something to do w/ it. BMS status says OVP - which i think is over voltage protection...total battery voltage is 53.78v and cells are 3403mv-3339mv. the c/c says it's putting out .1A @...

i got them probably 12 yrs ago, when searching the internet wasn't quite as good as it is now. I wondered how good quality they were. since i had been going all that time w/o anything, i figure it won't hurt to get them installed. what would you recommend to use? just found a video where...

i wasn't sure if it meant anything or not, as i said, i was at work when they finished so i didn't get to see the top. but i'm still trying to keep track of the numbers as best i can. i should get to see it at the top saturday or sunday, depending on work.

i've asked something similar before, but thought i'd start fresh as it is a little different. my 48v lifepo - charge settings are 57.6v (3.6v) bulk/absorb and 55.2v (3.45v) at float and recharge is 54v (3.375v). i'm still a little confused on what is happening...tell me if i have this...

i may need up to 3, so the emp shield may be too pricey for that...seems the midnite's have a good reputation, i will have to do more reading.

no, you're right, i should have stated but just figured that if i was asking about an AIO and not using the c/c that meant i already had means of charging. a case of 'i know what i'm talking about so everyone else will too'. i have checked there. just w/ that type of unit (ones w/ just 3...

thanks for the diagrams! i see in these, the banks are paralleled at the buss bar, and that's where the fuse for each 'battery' is. if i am just using 2, and daisy chain them as filterguy has shown, would you still put the fuse on the positive cable between the batteries? i plan on using a...

one of the features that i don't need is the battery charger - haven't used it in 20 yrs, probably never will. i don't need a transfer switch. all i want is an inverter that's in the neighborhood of 3000w for $1k. seems if they removed all the bells and whistles, it would be doable, but...

i apologize for being so dense...i read something, think i have a handle on it, see something different in reality, read some more, it conflicts (or maybe it doesn't but the terminology is just different). i guess what i need is lifepo charging theory for idiots. batteries are sk48v100, 2 in...

i wasn't home when the sun went down so i can't be sure what they got to, but the c/c said it produced 9.11kwh. that should have been enough to get them to 3.45v. so i check my cell voltages when i get home from work, all are 3.338v and 3.339v (53.4v)....so pretty well balanced after resting...

it was actually CC's video doing the comparison. the only difference he saw was the wiring compartment, vent hole size and a capacitor switch to the other side of a board.

the outback was (WAS) great until it died. they didn't want to help me troubleshoot it (probably liability). it sees DC IN, but that's it. i just wanted to know how to figure out which board was bad...i mean, there has to be test points...do you have this voltage here, this resistance there...

i have a similar question, though different application (stationary non RV). the neutral/ground is bonded in the main service panel. the inverter is connected to a manual transfer switch. it looks like only the hot is switched in the transfer switch, as i have continuity at the inverter...

i was hoping victron had something, but nothing intrigued me. i have been told you can use just the inverter from an AIO, which makes sense since it still works at night w/o MPPT input...so i may go that route...just use the inverter and eventually transition over as it would clean up/simplify...

i agree, mostly, i usually buy better quality when it makes sense. i certainly didn't skimp on the outback, and after, maybe, 10 yrs, it doesn't work. I could have bought 2 AIO's for that (with $ left over). so there's that argument as well. my c/c is xantrex and the inverter was...

balance starts at 3.45v as per Dexter. let's say i charge to 3.45v and the cells all balance out there over a few cycles w/o tripping OVP since i'm quite a bit below the bms cut off limit of 3.7v. could one, in theory, then gradually increase the voltage to 3.5v, 3.55v, 3.6v (because hopefully...

SOK sk48v100. i don't think it's smart bms. i gather, though may be wrong, that the bms is acting as it should....from the battery manual: Automatic Cell Balancer The BMS also features a cell balancer; when charging reaches nearly 100% full, the cell voltage rises rapidly. From the factory...

the victron phoenix 48/1200 is close to what i want. if it had a little more output and if it had output terminals rather than the plug type outlet... in reality, 1000w output is probably enough. i use 5kwh/day. worse case i use most of that in 10 hrs (8 hrs at work, 6 hr sleeping = little...

i agree about the water analogy - some fill faster/fuller than others. if you have an active balancer, it takes from the higher voltage cells and puts it into the lower cells. a passive balance just drains off from the higher cells. because my voltage was down to 53.5v, the c/c did start...

are the midnite solar units the preferred ones? or is there another/better option? i forgot i have the outback version installed on my inverter already. that seems to be designed more along the lines of the midnite as opposed to the deltas.

i didn't say i was an ADVANCED user. i hadn't looked at the link as i thought it was specifically for mac utilities.

i imagine it may defeat the purpose of the way the units are set up/designed to be used, but if you have an all in one such as the growatt spf3000tl or eg4 3000ehv....is it possible to use JUST the inverter?

thanks that's what i was wondering, if it should be close to operating voltage or if going bigger had some benefit (or downside). i guess if bigger was always better, there wouldn't be a 115vdc model.

right, just saying that w/ both, it will almost double. but that may be still be less than most others by themselves. one thing i'm still very confused on is, can you change settings on the MP2 without a PC?

i did see those, and i should have called to see if they were 'compatible'. i called zonna and he did say another model would work, and in fact it would work better if i was using it to charge lifepo's....i THINK it was the VFX (mine's GVFX). i ordered the original and it came today....it was...

mine's the sk48v100. the more i read and re-read the manual, i pick up a few things each time....easier to digest it one thing at a time as it comes up than the whole thing at once. it says the BMS goes to over-voltage when it's balancing. i checked the batteries when i got home, so they've...

thanks. i found the manual online last wk and looked it over when i 1st asked about them. that outback looks just like mine...except i have their SPD attached to the top.

i guess i don't know what the low level cutoff is on my current c/c. i hear it cycle on and off when it's really cloudy or at dusk, but i always presumed it 'worked' until it went under battery voltage...if that's the case, i can't imagine there is much difference in it barely charging or not...

i had read somewhere that any inverter can be a charger, so you're right, that probably isn't adding much cost. zonna has my outback, they say it's fixed (but it's over 10 yrs old now), so i'm either getting it back or using it as a trade in against something new. i have to call them today and...

i was watching a guy on youtube a little while back who was doing a lot of sand heat battery experiments....off-grid survival mike. maybe you can get some ideas there.