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That's fun, I'm also working on a car build 5 years ago with Valence batteries. Unfortunately, they have been left uncharged and one is dead. If you are willing to sell one battery, and are not located outside Europe, to ease shipping, I maybe interested by one! I may even make an offer for a...

I have ordered the following con nectors. They are working perfectly: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001528775851.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802rGvs1J

I think that if each bank can for any reason power both inverters at full charge (maintenance or one fuse already blown), then each fuse should be able to sustain the load of almost 500A. I would use fuse close to 1C rate for each bank, so 560A

I have a current setup in an electric car of 7 U27-12XP is serie, managed by an U-BMS LV. I have 2 cars but some batteries are sho, at least one with a 0V cell and the 6 others were exhibiting a low voltage of 2,8V (battery, not cell). Even if the took a charge, I'm short of one battery to test...

Have you checked the balance of internal cells? It may be, if the battery were kept instorage for too long that internal unbalance prevent the battery to deliver full power... If you have screenshot of the Valence software page it could help.

Thanks for the adress. My question is more targeted to Alibaba suppliers having a local stock in EU, such as some distributors have now stock in the US.

Hi to the group! I would like a confirmation of the wiring required to copy the configuration of an XP BMS with the Valence configuration software. This BMS is issued from one of my 2 cars and I would like to copy the configuration for the future. Unfortunately, I'm not able to initiate RS485...

Ok, one battery confirmed dead. Cells are leaking and smelling bad...Opening the case is a nightmare, after trying to do it as clean as possible, I finally destroy it...

Were you able to program yourself the Valence BMS software to match your battery setup?

Hi! Thanks for all the valuable information we can find here! I have managed to purchased two small electrical cars (Courb C-Zen) which have been left uncharged for 2 to 3 years. I have for the time being take delivery of the first one, second should arrive sometimes next week. These cars are...

I have a set of 7 battery in my EV, connected in serie. Discharge rate are going up to 250 A, and batteries have logged a 332A peak. THey seems to hold well. So I suspect 150A continuous are not a problem... And keep in mind batteries are usually around 13.4V, so it is 134A, just around 1C rate.

I will try to show you pictures of the negative terminal from the inside, I have a battery completely dismantled due to a bad cell. I would not be worried by the damage to the plastic as the negative terminal is bolted on a plate. I attach one unclear picture and will try to get better ones this...

No screw at all! The top cover is glued but it is a U shape over the bottom, so glued inside/outside! I have managed to crack the ouside glue, but was not able to break the inside joint. I had heated to over 200° the cover with a hotgun with a small nozzle but I was unable to get anything except...

That means your power supply is not properly set...Amp should decrease significantly when cells reach 3.6X. Also, with cells in parallel, reading such a diffecence between cells is not consistent. Stop your charger immediately and check wiring and charger voltage: 3.65 without any load connected!

14.6 absorb, if cells are not perfectly balanced will get highest cells over 3.65V...

From experience, it seems recovered cells are just behaving as if nothing happen... I had Valence U27-12XP batteries that were below 2V (4 cells serie...) that just recovered and behave perfectly: full capacity. They may have lost few cycles, but given the price paid, who cares!

Sorry, I need both. And I'm in France...

I have purchased the same type of power supply than the OP, but in 24V. It is basically 2 server PS connected in serie, one without current limitation, adjusted to 15V, and the other one being adjustable both in voltage and current. Components in the regulator box are blanked/scratched, so no...

To be honest, I just connect a 5A power supply initially and the battery quickly jump above 2.5V/cell...but I learn after that I should have charge initially at less than 0.5A, which I did for the other batteries. They are all behaving the same.

In the Valence battery manual, they say than when the battery display a red flashing light, the OEM should be contacted to assess if battery can be recovered or not...except for undervoltage. It is described that if the battery reach 2.3V per cell in less than a minute at 0.5A, then the alarm...