Recent content by eXodus

Potentially, true. But I have not seen this in my configuration yet, mostly below 50A. Been driving around with the battery for a while now and the alternator is working fine and I don't see high amps. But I'm slowly getting to the point considering a DC DC to protect the battery. A few...

Battery behaves perfectly normal again. Have to say that's some good support and things you can do these days. Someone from the other side of the world is remotely fixing the battery in my RV via the Bluetooth connection on my phone via their app. Modern technology continues to amaze

Was like 12.6V Now it's back to 13.4V The battery is charging, and seems to be behaving normal Temperature readings are normal again - 26C both BMS and Battery sensor Will see tomorrow if everything is fine again.

The support responded very quickly within hours and we setup a time for them to remote into the BMS and have a engineer check it out. I needed to bind the their app to the battery so they could access it through the bluetooth code. Now the temperature values are looking normal again and both...

On the Terminals the voltage is about 6V Yet since the Bluetooth BMS shows that it has disconnected the output because of high temperature - not sure what to make of it. https://a.co/d/4QHhLkf It is complete battery - nothing I put together, and I can not get to sensor without cutting it...

My assumption as well. Nothing to disable a temp sensor I can see in the BAT-BMS app. Any other Android Apps to recommend which may have more features?

I had my RV sitting the last days and it was charging with a 100W panel and LFP charging profile. So today I came into the RV everything dead. - So I pulled up the Bluetooth app and the BMS claims that the battery is at 90C and the Discharge MOS is disabled. A bit nervous I got a wrench...

I just replaced my clamps with the ones you suggested. Much better solution. Half of the clamps I used where bending. So would probably come loose eventually.

It's cement board over plywood. yes just 1/4 thick. Not heavym I needed a spacer, there is a molding piece at the trailer floor sticking out 1/4 thick. Which did prevent me from getting battery all the way against the wall. So I had two options. Adding another 1/4 plywood, or following the...

Panels are mounted, on Unistrut. Ended up just using 4. Will get another few when I know where I settle.

Got the battery mounted. After wrestling it upright I saw that bracket and was confident that it will not jump off as soon those 4 screws on the side are installed. I've put it on top of a 3/4 plywood to spread the load on the trailer floor. And added 1/4 thick cement board. It's not tall...

I only got a 100AH battery + the lead starter battery, so worst case it charges for 3-4h @ 30A then it should go into float / storage? The amount of redundancy I am slowly building in this Class A RV is borderline Prepper paranoid ;) I can charge the 12V: - Grid (Converter) - Generator...

That is actually a very good hint. True it's a long run and I think ground is going to the frame rail so even worse connections. My battery is all the way in front - and my converter 2/3 back. And it's close to the bed, when I would mount the IP22 in the front close to the battery - it...

Hello, I replaced my lead batteries with a 100AH LFP and now need to upgrade the converter/charger with something which speaks lithium and I don't have to watch it. Doing some research I found the Victron Energy Blue Smart IP22 30A - which has a lot of settings and looks like it should fit...

https://www.kellyhayes.com/slr200sa-kit-unistrut-solar-end-clamp-for-strut-based-racking-system-includes-high-wind-clamp.html https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0614/5546/6701/files/PVKit2-Brochure-05212018.pdf?v=1686620738 it's apparently either for high wind load (not sure if a flat mounted...