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For what it's worth, I have four of that same model of Mission Solar panels. They are working great for me. I'm planning to buy a couple more.

Yes, you need airflow. I have a 1000 watt inverter and it will heat up the compartment it is in pretty good. Both the DC-DC and the inverter will create heat. Some units can handle humidity better than others. Check the manufacturer's specifications. LiFePO4 cells can also create heat, but...

This is pretty close to my experience also. The only time I really felt the need to charge my LiFePO4 bank from the generator is when I turned on all my tank heaters. I don't remember the exact number of amps the pads draw, but it was at least 30 amps. It was -8° F outside and I felt the need...

The thermostat that I'm using has a timer feature that allows power to go on for a certain amount of time once the temperature threshold has been met. Set the threshold so it's always tripped and it should work. But I haven't tested that. Since you're trying for turning on a fan every X...

A forum member put two BMS on the same battery. It worked. But not long afterwards, he reported that he switched to two batteries, each with a single BMS. The low temp protection of the Overkill Solar (aka JBD) BMS does work. I tested it out on my system before putting it all in production...

80% is kind of a vague threshold. What most of us do to limit the state of charge is set the solar charge controller to a lower voltage. I don't shoot for a specific percentage, nor have I bothered to calculate it but I reduce my Victron solar charge controller 14.0 to 14.2 volts when I'm not...

That's a good question. The only way I would know is if I connected to the BMS through the app. It's not like I could add an LED on the cable from the battery to the shunt. The other battery is connected to the same shunt so it would power the LED also.

I'll concede that your inline images did indeed zoom well and maintained very good resolution. However, not everyone can easily do that. Lots of people get their photos loaded to the Google photo service automatically. Linking to those photos has been a PITA. I know how to do it, but it...

Where is the fuse located? If this is a 12 volt system that fuse may be undersized. 1000 watts / 12 volt system / .85 inverter efficiency = 98 amps. On that system, the fuse would be sized at 125 amps (98 amps x 1.25 fudge factor). I use MEGA fuses between the inverter and the common bus bar...

LOL! It wasn't really a bear. But man, oh man, it sure looked like one at first, second and third glances. It was just a log that had all the right branches sticking up in the right directions. I had my pistol out and ready to go. I tried to talk the guy I was hunting with to come up the...

I used a nylon lock nut on the solar panel side. Because of the size of my panels and the use of six z brackets per panel, that meant I used twelve nylon lock nuts per panel. A dinky 100 watt panel shouldn't need more than four attachment points.

I have my Cerbo GX on a VRM account. However, I don't have a constant Internet connection. It connects/uploads only when I turn on the hot spot on my phone, so not very often. I'll have to remember to make that connection more often so I can see data like that.

It looks like you're in an enclosed utility trailer. The only reason I can see for NOT locating the DC equipment above the cabinet is voltage loss on the cables and the expense for larger size cables to account for that.

I need help with how to install the ground in a 50 amp RV for the MultiPlus-II 12/3000 2x 120V. The Victron manual says this: • In a mobile installation (for example, with a shore current plug), interrupting the shore connection will simultaneously disconnect the grounding connection. In that...

Three sets of connections, but this description from the Solar-Electric website leads me to believe only two strings are supported. 550v * 29 amps = ~16,000 watts. So their number must be be per string.

That's what I did. The instructions that come with the meter are a joke. It's just pictures.

Mounting panels to 3/8" Coroplast might work. Coroplast will melt at 324° F, but if the corrogation is oriented vertically and the bottom of the Coroplast isn't blocked it might be enough ventilation to keep it cool from melting.

The last I check the spec on mounting of bifacial panels is that they need to be 1 meter above the reflective surface, regardless of the tilt. There are some bifacial panels that are transparent. I read about this in passing, I have no further familiarity with them. I didn't comment earlier...

The best location for solar panels would be above the tire rack. Be sure to get solar charge controller that works with your battery chemistry. The batteries you have are a bit on the small side, but four of them in parallel will give you 300 Ah (150 usable Ah). That's not too bad. I ran my...

No, I have not committed to anything yet. The point above that the mower will likely have a good size surge, is making me rethink this.

Was the "hot" battery one on the end of the set? If so, that's a yellow flag. If it's one of the inside batteries, then that could be a red flag. Paralleling batteries is a topic that comes up a bit here on the forum. The optimal method of connecting the batteries is to run cable from each...

I read that doc pretty much cover to cover a couple days ago. Very useful, with lots of examples and images.

I used the bump charge trick on my Dewalt 20v 5 amp batteries that were brand new, never used, but sat for a year. Wouldn't charge at all. I hit them with a fully charged battery and now they charge up like they should. Other than that, I'm satisfied with my Dewalt batteries.

If you look hard enough you can find channel made out of aluminum. No anodizing needed.

Since this is a from-scratch build, a 48 volt battery system is OK. If it was an existing RV I would try to talk you down from 48 volt. Just be aware that the selection of RV related appliances that you might put in a build greatly decreases as you get beyond 12 volt. The water pump is kind...

Nope, wasn't me that did any load testing. At least not that I recall. I've had some genius moments that I don't recall.

This is going into a 50 amp RV? I would do everything possible to minimize the cable distances. I would go so far as to put the switches directly connected to the Class T fuses (with a copper bus bar) to help there. I understand your desire to have access to the switches but I'm not sure that...