Driving versus Monitor mode is a configuration set manually. Lock is also, but seems to be only access when in the Driving mode. Apparently the app is mainly for EV bikes. Maybe that way someone can't drive off with your bike without your phone also.
I think I agree... to a point. Maybe its just me. The comparison was mainly... I wanted to know that by getting a cheaper brand, how much efficiency I was leaving on the table. Turns out... none. Yes, there is also the other very important metric of reliability. With the Engle, that is...
Thank you for the link. This is exactly what I wanted... some way for me to objectively judge this commodity, Chinese fridge. The first thing I noted about in your vid was it recommended viewing a previous vid... so I did. It was a cool down test very similar to the one I did first above...
Thanks
I've heard very good things about the Giandels on another forum I haunt, but they are only 1KW or larger versions. I wanted to hear about someone with actual experience with this 300W version.
Actually... no fret. Until I actually am able to get my cells, build my battery, get my 2200 watt Inverter, run the test... there is a temporary lull on this thread...
Party on!
Are you saying, this thing allows me to set a narrow range during storage times say between 40% and 60% SOC while I'm gone and it will get info from weather services and decide it needs to store 100% to ride out a few days of no sun? :oops:
Does it also "learn" your habits... even on a...
Please understand, I'm not arguing... just trying to get a handle on this issue. Based on the premise so far, lead-acid (even AGM) just aren't strong enough to be an issue and thus the car Audio hard-core are fine with the ANL fuses. As soon as you go to Lithium, it makes it sound like EVERY...
I'm starting to go through and recreate the tests
Here are the results of repeating "Expedition Extreme's" test number 2 - Power Consumption.
The conclusion of their tests did indicate the Snomaster was "their" choice as it has two speeds and could let you chill stuff quickly or save energy...
WOW! That's embarrassing. Even if I'm the wrong kind of engineer to know Ohm's Law, I did have at least one class of DC circuits. I was hoping that was some kind of measurement of a battery's internal resistance. Didn't even check what now is obvious to me.
Thank you Samsonite801 for not...
OMG! You just opened a brain storm.
My cells (when they finally get here) and I have an Overkill BMS waiting... I read it has a programming API via Arduino... I could easily do what you're suggesting with fairly trivial programming on a ESP8266 device. As you pointed out above... could also...
I found Nordkyn design blog to be more thorough about explaining the "whys" things are done and got it from there. Those numbers (13.3V / 3.325 per cell) were from it. His concern seemed to be more about it being very hard on the cells leaving it at such a high value. From a more practical...
I opted for Overkill Solar to put those on (option on their order form) since I don't have something big enough to crimp something that big. I also opted for the 8 gauge wires. I want it to run as cool as possible. You'll have to email Overkill Solar. They're very responsive.
I'm putting together my first system and would like to ask a basic Inverter question. I'm going to use the Overkill Solar 12V/120a BMS. It should be able to drive a 1500W inverter. Would there be any advantage to getting a 2000W or 3000W inverter? I know the BMS will trigger long before...
I wanted to close the circle on this topic... at least to my satisfaction. :)
I finally got the Lishen cells and finished all the top balancing and capacity testing. I returned to do this test and check efficiencies.
Theory - That small Inverters might handle smaller loads more efficiently...
Thank you...
Now that explains the difference between passive and active (waste highest cell versus transferring it to the lowest).
I had just finished re-top-balancing as you suggested... each cell up with it still assembled.
Thanks.
Looks to be the same model as Will's original. I ordered one... late December delivery from China.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Voltmeter-Ammeter-DC-300V-100A-Amp-Voltage-Current-Meter-Tester-Blue-LCD/393019874118
That makes perfect sense for a large, house system. My design paradigm is for a single 12V, 272 Ah battery boat system. 90% of the loads will be 12 VDC and the Inverters are ONLY for luxury items and will be switched on for their use and turned off afterward. So... no standby losses. I'll...
I'm interested in your evaluation. Say in a small system...
One 100 Ah LiFePO4 battery
Overkill 120 amp max rating BMS
One 80 Ah starter battery
One V8 Engine.
What happens when you start it? The engine's starter demands 500 CCA, the BMS kicks out and the lead-acid takes over. Is that...
I think these two "wordings" are for the same feature. I had my built battery sitting for two months at about 40% discharge (reading here that storing at 100% SOC was bad on cells). No external loads were on the battery during the two months. The Bluetooth was on as I checked in on the...
I'm using the Blue Sea's gauge calculator. When I use the defaults with simple setting, I get an answer, but it also says in fine print that its capacity is a lot higher. For example, if I use 12 VDC, 5 amps, 30 feet, I get an answer of AWG 12, but in fine print it says, "Capacity per ABYC...
Since I'm going to be very watchful of said system while in the boat, I'll use the remote switch and won't really have any idle time. Fridge, all marine electronics and lighting will be 12VDC... only use the inverter for temporary "luxury" items... blender, maybe inverter microwave... etc...