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From my limited experience, most 2000 watt inverters recommend 2/0 DC cables for 12v systems.

If price is no concern, do what you want. But for us peasants, price is always a concern.

+1 Sounds like you're not fully charging your batteries...

Did you do a capacity test before assmembly? If not, you don't really have an accurate basis of how much you've lost...

What is the low battery cutoff voltage for the inverter? What voltage is it seeing under the 1700 watt load?

Price, positive reviews, and the most compact footprint possible were my reasons for going with the Epoch. I'm in a 144 Sprinter with limited space.

In my (not so) professional opinion, there's an incorrect setting in their firmware settings. Unless you're fully cycling the batteries from 0-100-0 frequently, that number consistently gets smaller and smaller. I do not pay any attention to that number now. I just go by the SOC % from my shunt.

Sounds like your shunt settings are not correct for LiFePO4.... Interior battery indicator is likely based on voltage and highly inaccurate.

10%/hour is also assuming zero load from the battery during charging.

Heads up, Epoch is having a 20% off sale for Black Friday. Use code BF2023 at checkout. That makes the basic 300AH battery $879. Looks like it doesn't apply to the one with comms.

Not trying to insult your intelligence, but have you tried a different device and/or tried restarting your phone?

Good move. I'm very happy with my two 300AH Epochs (no comms) in our Class B.

Looks like Epoch pushed an update for their app today. You can view multiple batteries at the same time. Looks decent too. This is on Android, not sure about Apple. This is also with the basic non-comm batteries.

What are you using to gauge the state of charge? If anything other than a shunt, it's probably not accurate. If you're using a shunt, your settings may not be correct.

Shaving the handles from the Epoch does not void your warranty. I did this and communicated with their support. They requested pictures of the casing afterward for their "files". They confirmed as long as you do not open the case, the warranty is still valid. Great guys and quick communication...

I've received quicker responses by messaging them on Facebook. For what it's worth, I ordered two basic 300AH batteries on 11/15/2023 and they were delivered on 11/16/2023.

So many questions... How do you have them wired? Gauge wires/length? How are you measuring the charge level? Do you have a shunt? How are you charging them?

Just downloaded and installed on my wife's iPhone 15 Pro. Connected just fine.

If it shows paired under your Bluetooth settings, forget that device and try to repair in the Victron app.

That's for low voltage. I was able to clear the protection by disconnecting the battery from the system and reconnecting. It's just annoying, especially when it appears there should be an option for pressing a button in the app...

I ordered two of the non-comm 300AH units with the black friday 20% off to replace my existing 100AH batteries in my Class B van. Slight modification was required, but I have them fitting in the original battery box. I'm very happy to have tripled my capacity and still have all of my storage space.

Just to verify, you have the unit mounted vertically, correct?

How do you have these wired up? Not sure why two batteries are discharging while the first battery showed fully charged and a much higher voltage...

The integrated shunt is a Reidon RSB 500a/50mv, same specs as the Victron and the one you linked. I may try to buy two of the cheaper ones and connect them in parallel with a bus bar somehow. Thanks!

Just to follow up with my issues, the battery ended up balancing itself after a month or two of regular usage.

It's 200010

Again, if you're relying on the BMS SOC% to be accurate, it's not. You need a shunt if you want a more accurate SOC%.

Have you verified battery voltages with a multimeter? Maybe the BMS is reading incorrectly. Also, looks like you don't have a shunt?

152A continuous is a good bit of power... What exactly are you trying to power continuously with that load?

It's definitely not voltage based. I'm not concerned with the realtime current reading. I just need to trick the system into calculating a more accurate SOC%. I have a Victron Smartshunt for actual values.