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That's what I was hoping to hear. And thanks for the idea about using a snake to pull another wire for the light. And, yeah those t-taps are a bad idea. It's just what I had at the time and needed to complete the circuit. Should have taken the time to track down better fittings.

Thank you all for the feedback, especially @rmaddy! I think I got all of your feedback into this updated diagram. Let me know If I missed anyting.

The wire might be as short as 10 ft if I drill a new hole in roof or 25 ft if I use existing refrigerator vent. I'm leaning towards 25 ft

I have 10 LED puck lights on a 12 volt circuit in my RV. The very last light in the circuit is not getting power. I have isolated the issue to the T-tap that I used to extend the circuit to this final light. The problem is, the T-tap is buried under the ceiling and would require removing about...

Hello! This is my first build. I was hoping the fine members of this forum might be willing to glance at my diagram and let me know if I'm missing anything. I'm most concerned about wire size and fuse calculations.

I was under the impression that if I'm running 2p I don't need to fuse the panels, but anything more than 2p fuses would be required. Is that incorrect? If I need fuses, what type size would you recommend? This is something that was recommended at explorist.life. I'm not sure why, but I think...

Thanks for catching that typo! And all the great points. Just posted the full specs in my last reply. See above. The output is rated at 40 amp @ 12 v. This is the one I'm looking at: uxcell New BIG-Size Voltage Converter Regulator DC/DC DC 24V to DC 12V 40A 480W Buck Transformer Waterproof...

I was a bit stuck on this one. the converter output is rated for 40 amps @ 12v. Does that mean the input is approx 20 amps @ 24v? In that case, should I fuse that with, say, a 25 or 30 amp fuse?

Yes, that was unclear. The panel arrangement will be 3s2p. I was hoping to do all of the series and parallel connecting inside the junction box so that it is easy to rearrange. I'd like to add a second SCC and a few more panels to the system down the road. That makes sense to me. I'll make...

Thank you! This seems to be the consensus. I'll make those changes. The EG4 batteries each have their own 125 amp breaker built-in. Do you think an additional fuse is necessary? I think the built-in 125 amp breaker on each EG4 battery will also accomplish this. Right?

That's what I ended up doing. I might attempt to correct the issue later, but for now I've disconnected the last light

Thank you for the clarity! So glad to hear I don't need to pull the ceiling down. We'll at least not yet.

I am getting ready to install 6 x 200w solar panels on the roof of my Class A RV. I plan to install three in the rear of the roof and three of them in the front. The three in the front will be installed across the leading edge of the roof 6"-10" behind the cap. I'm trying to figure out how big...

The wire might be as short as 10 ft if I drill a new hole in roof or 25 ft if I use existing refrigerator vent. I'm leaning towards 25 ft.