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Ok, you guys (or girls?) have helped a lot. It's obvious my preference is for the 2x 206, so it's good to hear that you agree. @rmaddy You're 100% correct on the DIY solution. I really don't have time to add another large project. I barely have enough time to get the current projects done...

No assumptions here. I spent years working in RF. There are plenty of things that are widely used and aren’t safe, but this isn’t one of them. EMF doesn’t propagate via microwaves, microwaves are a form of EMR, with a frequency between 1 and 1000 GHz. Bluetooth does fall in that range at 2.4...

So I currently have a (failed) Renogy 60A DC-DC in my RV, that I'm replacing with a pair of the new Victron Orion XS 50A DC-DC chargers. The current Renogy is fed by 2AWG from my truck. The Victrons will only take in a max wire size of 4AWG. What's the best way or splitting the 2AWG into a pair...

If you’re avoiding Bluetooth devices for health issues then I have some bad news for you. Whatever device you’re typing your posts on is putting out far more EM radiation than the Bluetooth BMS in those batteries.

Diagram as promised.

Yeah, they’re all using the same Bluetooth BMS now (it even has contacts for a heater). I just received a pair of 206Ah form the latest shipment last week. Personally I wish they were the old BMS as I’d prefer the higher discharge rate. I agree on keeping the same type for all 3, it would be...

So would you stick with the 2x 206Ah or switch out to the 4x 100Ah? Or there's option 3: Build my own "pair" of battery packs with JBD 150A BMS's? The ability to know I'll be good, plus the potential for $500+ in cost savings is tempting. I'm confident in my skill level with electronics and...

I ended up going with the SOKs. The ACOPower batteries may be great, but they may also be trash and I’m not willing to be the guinea pig for $2000.

I'm building out a system with a Victron Multiplus II 2x120. My plan was to use a pair of SOK 206Ah (non-heated). Min@SOK (and their product page) tells me that the BMS is rated for 130A continuous output, and this post has @jharrell saying they've pulled far higher continuous discharge rates...

I won’t be installing a new converter as the Multiplus will be handling the charging. Definitely not confusing anything. There’s a 30A self resetting DC breaker on the tongue behind the battery box with the 8AWG line running from there to the DC panel. It’s going to get removed when I install...

The WFCO 8955 DC panel has “150A Maximum Current” silkscreened on to it. My last trailer had the same panel but with a 50A breaker and 6AWG going to it.

About to start building a system in my new RV and I ran across some batteries that I can't find much commentary on. Does anyone have any experience with the AOCPower 200Ah LiFePO4 batteries? They have good specs, and are available at a really decent price on Amazon compared to pretty much...

Not that I’m aware of. I’ve heard of some people having luck getting SOK to send them one of the old non-BT BMS modules to swap out.

What inverter are you running?

There are 3 unused fuse slots in the existing panel, no need to add another.

Yeah, the batteries and all other equipment will be installed under the bed.

Ahh, that makes sense, thank you. GUI_mods wasn’t around last time I had a Cerbo so I hadn’t seen it before. None of the screenshots I’ve seen had a single temp across the bottom like yours, so I was thinking it was some kind of weather feed. When I finally get all my gear installed I’ll have to...

Could I get a sanity check on my design? It's a modification of a design I used previously when I was full-timing in an Airstream. I'm in a slightly smaller trailer now, but with much more roof space. Batteries are SOK 206Ah, panels are Newpowa 200w 9BB (Vmp 18.6V, Imp 10.75A, Voc 21.8V, Isc...

@jimcalf A bit off topic here (sorry), but how did you get the outside temp display on your screen?

I'm installing a full system (400Ah LiFePO4, Victron Multiplus, SCC, 800w solar, etc.) and I've run into a spot I could use some suggestion on. The factory load center is a WFCO 8955. I'm of course removing the stock converter, but I'll still be using the built in AC and DC panels. The DC panel...

I’ve finished my system now and my pair of 206Ah with the BT BMS have no issues starting my 15k A/C(or running anything else) from a MultiPlus-II 3000 120x2. I don’t have a pre charge circuit. I do have an EasyStart installed in my A/C unit.

Anybody? I realize I only asked this a couple hours ago and patience is a virtue and all, but I'm stressing out here about potentially needing to cancel or change my order before it ships and I get hit with huge shipping and restocking fees. Really hoping someone can come to my rescue. Thanks all.

Yep, that's the issue at hand Factory was 8AWG and a 30A breaker. Seems unnecessarily small. 6AWG and a 60A makes more sense to me. It's only a 20' run. Thanks for the confirmation!

My main high amp draw will be a 15k BTU RV AC unit (Coleman Mach 8, 14A (1680W) normal, 18A (2160W) "desert conditions"). That will be the only large load when it's running on battery as that will only be when driving (batteries will be backed by 800W of solar and a 60A DC-DC). I ran the same...

Nice setup! My trailer only has the tongue jack, power stabilizers, some underbody lighting, and the breakaway brake switch wired up to the front (aside from the DC load center of course). I’ve got that planned for in my diagram. I’ll post that up here when I’m actually at a computer.

All of them are Bluetooth now. Even the non-heated ones.

Sorry, should have mentioned that, I have a MicroAir EasyStart for it.

Oh yeah. I consider an EasyStart to be a requirement for running an A/C unit on any inverter or generator. Many people talk about needing precharge circuits just to turn on their inverter though. I’ve not needed that for mine.

I don’t plan to disconnect the inverter unless it dies. My last system it was turned on for nearly a full year with the only “disconnect” being when we managed to drain the batteries on an unusually long and hot travel day. Honestly We used to get 7+ hours of A/C drive time with 60A DCDC and...

Interesting. I don’t have any issue even with the solar controller breakers flipped off. I wonder if it’s a difference between BMSes or MultiPluses?