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I think that the power savings of a little freezer is in many respects due to the fact that it does not have a heating element for frost free operation. I also think the insulation is a bit upgraded. A chest freezer is also more efficient due to not loosing it's cold air each time you open it...

They make themselves the most likely to be hit if lightning is trying to arc to ground in that location. This is why I want my equipment to be grounded or the same potential as the earth around it. I live on a mountain so I researched grounding and lightning extensively before beginning to build...

The open plugs in the bottom were there before I owned the trailer. I may look into plugs later.

I set it up to shut down the entire battery at 38v and release at 41v so yes 5.42v and about 2.7v in theory but not in reality. However if any one cell drops below 2.9v it cuts that cell off and comes back on at 3.1v with a delay. So this is protected from under voltage in two ways as a safety...

All good options. But thankfully I did not have to improvise too much as the ground bars went in after a bit of work with an electric jack hammer.

Back to the inverter question... Anyone have suggestions for a quality inverter.

No experience but curious to get more information.

I grounded all my equipment (DC and AC) individually on both 8' copper coated ground rods and Ufer ground bars encased in concrete used to mount equipment and buildings and then tied them all together. Lightening can't see your equipment if it is all earth grounded together. It is not a...

It has a built in 60 amp ac to dc charger not a MPPT solar charge controller.

We work with 700v dc systems on the Allison hybrids and I get quite nervous when checking to be sure the electronic safety battery disconnect is working when disassembling components that require removal of the high voltage covers and cables. Getting suited up in multiple layers of thick gloves...

I got the 3000 watt unit with transformers from Sigineer and it arrived yesterday. Man is it heavy on one end lol. I swear everything looks just like an Aims unit all the way down to the remote display unit. I guess I'm the the official test dummy on this one now LOL. I decided that I would be...

Well when I got this trailer my intent was to make something I could boondock with and enjoy Arizona's out of the way places. That is once we finish our house. After a bit of research I stumbled onto Nissan Leaf batteries. You can do 24v 48v or 72v. I decided on 48v to reduce wire size and...

My grounds are like this. The two Ufer grounds are connected together under ground. The ground rod just provides a way to attach clamps for grounding additional components. So like I said it is one continuous ground with a way to attach to it at both the solar array and the solar shed.

I chose the Nissan Leaf not for it's maximum power storage, power output or compact size. I chose it because it's easy to service and repair as well being capable of expansion with the addition of more 48v packs. It also for now has support of an aftermarket BMS and PCB combination that makes it...

I went 48v and I think at this time it is the best option. There are 48v golf cart inverters that produce 30amps of 12v. Wire size isn't as large for 48v so less cost and less weight. I envision that in the future we will be using 700+ volts DC systems. Cummins makes an all electric platform and...

I think We killed our BMS. A little back story I built a system for our Avion I used a DC solid state relay to power a 30 amp 12v Dc to Dc converter. My battery is a self assembled Nissan leaf 48v battery and BMS through www.techdirectclub.com that the BMS seems to no longer be operating...

My thought was that if your grounds are properly joined or bonded together essentially one ground I believe you are good but hey that's just me. After all the aluminum frame for the solar panels is bolted to the concrete so isn't that also another ground? I did bond the solar mount to the Ufer...

Nissan Leaf cells and they are actually 8.3 volts but I use a BMS set to a conservative 8.25 and a 58v charger gets it really close. I'm currently using them in my RV to test for use in my Home system. For when I replace the batteries. I plan to do something like this...

Yes I'm aware of that and plan to either get a very large low quality inverter (48v 6000watt) or a quality one Like Victron Energy. They only have two that are 48v that could be used with a Lithium battery system. One is a 48v 1200 watt inverter only at $402.00 and the other is a 48v 3000watt...

Also good information! Had I been grid tied I would have really twisted a few brain cells trying figure out how to protect my system LOL.

Found this one (3000 watt 48v Sigineer PSI3048NC) and if it works properly it is exactly what I'm looking for. Anyone know what their saying by stating that this unit it is "Transformless"? I Think it means they use a bank of capacitors instead of large transformers. It does say it has a 0.5sec...

I watched the video and he is not talking about an application such like ours. My solar array is 10' away from my solar power shed and ground mounted. My home is about 100' away from my power center and solar array. My home is grounded independently. So are my solar array and solar shed. All my...

This guy keeps his at 4.09v with his Btrium BMS rather than 4.2v but with his bank he would likely never notice the reduced capacity.

Here is the modified main CB service

Well he also said that if a 20' ground point is not practicable ( new word ) then an 8' ground rod must be used in that location and a #6 bare copper wire at minimum will be buried to connect ( bond ) that rod to the main ground point. So I'm going to do that from my home to the shed now. So far...

That's totally on another level LOL. That's how the railroad rails are tied together.

The fuse is a time delay 30 amp fuse. This connection is done per code and the knock out is filled with a 3/4" weather proof elbow connector connected to the 3/4" flex conduit run continuous to the inverter input connection.

I'm in Vail AZ and can say without hesitation double your battery bank capacity as over time the capacity will diminish and it will live longer if you don't deep cycle it! I used information from a WW2 Submariner when I put my system together and that was his biggest suggestion for me to follow...

Do I need a programming dongle or is it all set. Or will Bluetooth work fine with the supplied password.

Makes sense but you can just put the freezer thermostat back in and go get your warranty replacement and put the fridge thermostat in the replacement freezer.