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Ok, now I understand! I'm the same way. If your goal is to learn and tinker with things, then an adjustable supply will be useful. I bought mine basically for one project and have used it for all sorts of things. I posted earlier in this thread about how a dedicated charger does CC then CV...

As you said, that battleborn should only have a 100A continuous load. Factoring loss from the inverter, you’ll need to keep your load under 1200W. If you’re worried, you could install some sort of current limiting device or maybe a fuse or breaker between the battery and the inverter.

Nice writeup @New Mexico Will! One important thing to add is that amp-hours (Ah) isn't really the useful measure of capacity. Watt-hours (Wh) or kilowatt-hours (kWh) is. How long can a 100Ah battery run a 120W appliance hooked up to an inverter (120VAC)? You can't calculate this unless you know...

@JoseMR I also recently hacked together a "big UPS" and I was missing the "notify something else so it can shut down" functionality. I solved this with an Arduino running this library: https://github.com/abratchik/HIDPowerDevice and my own code. I needed some extra hardware to do AC on/of...

No problem, that's why people post here, to learn! A few questions: * Does it need to be portable? Or just not permanent install? * Do you want to power existing outlets in your home? Or is it ok if the "box" you build has it's own outlets (like a portable gasoline generator does). * Do you...

Ahh, interesting. I'm not doing a permanent grid connection, not directly connecting to house wiring. This is a DIY portable electric generator like a Goal Zero Yeti or a RockPals. I charge by plugging it into a regular US 120V 15A receptacle, then unplug it and store it. When needed, I move it...

I think you would have to spend quite a bit of money to get 0.01V resolution you could trust in a variable supply.

Just think thru the dual cabling carefully. If you have a fuse or circuit breaker, you need to be sure it interrupts both cables (so either the pair on the + or the - side)

This is totally possible. I built this a few months ago. If you don't care about weight, and you expect the batteries to be full most of the time (not cycled like a typical solar install) SLA is a much cheaper option. I bought a $150 RV converter / charger. It charges the batteries. I had an...

The rule of thumb I was told for DC systems a while ago is "12 volts for every 1000 watts of power". This guide is to keep currents less than about 100A to minimize voltage drop, wire size, and component size. If I'm going to need 2500W of power, I'd go with a 24V system. If the power needs...

Progressive Dynamics PD9125-24LV is a 24V up to 25A charger.

If I understand correctly you're asking this: You have three fused loads coming out of a breaker box. The loads are all step-down voltage regulators, two 48->12V (20A max at 12V) and one 48->24V (10A at 24V). For each of these, I'm assuming the amp rating is on the output side (10A at 24V, not...

You are saying it right, yes. Ok, if you think you're at about 3000W of output now and you think you might want to grow, I suggest looking only at 48V systems. The system voltage is the thing that's hard to change later. That means a 48V charge controller, 48V battery bank, 48V inverter. Sizing...

I've used a Bioenno LFE battery for a "HAM radio in a backpack". The company seems to have a good reputation in that community and it had given me no trouble the four or so times I have cycled it.

A 12V charger won't charge a 24V battery bank. Think of voltage like water pressure a charger with "12 volts of pressure" can't push any charge into a battery that has "24 volts of pressure". Thinking of volts as pressure isn't a perfect mental model, but generally works.

Thanks all for the replies, I ended up with a 20ohm 50W resistor for just a few dollars. Once everything shows up, I'll measure the inductance and post back here so others can find it.

For the 24V connectors on my "electric genny" I'm going to use either: Anderson Power Poles or banana binding Posts Or both. I'm going to stick a "24V" label on the panel so I know what I'm getting. I started using APPs because they're common in amateur radio, but I've been using them more...

My only problem with 15/30/45A APPs is that once I have assembled a connector, I can't easily tell whether I used the 15, 30 or 45A pins. This is a blessing sometimes, because more things fit together, but for a panel connector, I think I'll want to know the limits of the mounted connector. I'm...

When I wrote the above, I had a vague memory of a few StackExchange posts talking about this. I went back and found a (new to me) post that does a pretty good job of explaining it: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/a/544036/20244

There's an active thread already on these packs: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/shunbin-battery-packs-12v-24v-100ah-and-up.1304/

Thanks for the link, I'll check that out. Opening it up and posting pictures may be useful just for understanding what would be required if I decide to build my own from scratch

There are others, but apparently many folks use Samlex's SDC product line for this sort of thing https://www.samlexamerica.com/products/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=21

Thanks for the suggestions. I am looking for mobile (box with wheels, maybe a hard sided roller luggage, RIGID jobsite box, etc), so the ATS isn't required, but the simplified wiring and fuses are a big plus. When I first put the drawing together, I was thinking: "no way! Those combos are too...

A 12V 800Ah battery has 12x800=9,600Wh (9.6kWh) of power capacity. A 48V 800Ah battery has 48x800=38,400Wh (38.4kWh) of power capacity. That's four times more. It will be roughly four times heavier and roughly four times more expensive. Think of a Wh (watt-hours) as similar to a gallon of...

I posted in the Favorite Tools forum, I have an Eventek 0-30V, 0-10A power supply. If I remember correctly, I picked it because folks smart than me at EEVBlog forums thought it was an ok low end bench power supply. But, I haven’t thought about usIng it as s charger. I’m not sure how accurate...

Ya, if I'm going over $1000, I'd start looking at Samlex, Victron, etc. I have a Multiplus 24V 3000VA in a different project. For this, it's much less critical and sort of a passion project so I was trying to go cheaper especially since my power needs are so low. It looks like there just isn't a...

Ok, just quickly watched and skipped thru Will's video. If you do the hack he describes, you don't need to worry about the 22V max listed in the Yeti manual. As Will says at about 7m05s into the video, when you use a 3rd party solar charge controller like the Victron you can use whatever PV...

A purely theoretical answer: Battery capacity: 24V * 100Ah = 2400Wh of energy Panel power: four 100W panels = 400W of power. The 400W would take 6 hours to fill 2400Wh of capacity (2400 watt-hours / 400 watts = 6hrs) This doesn't account for any losses or anything real-world.

As I understand it (secondhand from folks who know more about the hardware than I do). Is that you generally won't see QC on anything but mobile devices. Apparently QC 4.0 devices will be somewhat compatible with USB-PD. For me, I don't have anything that uses QC. Only old-school USB or USB-C...

I heard from a Victron employee on the Victron community site. So, I'm going to go ahead and run my voltage sense cable directly between inverter and battery. I really like the Victron so far, but all I have done is initial testing and I haven't pushed it at it's spec'd limits (only 50A of...