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I don't see any problems with this. I also don't see a necessity to disconnect the inverter, though it won't hurt anything.

There's just so much wrong with this. This part is pretty much correct. 'Sine' wave, but the intent was clear enough. Sign Sine wave starts at 0 deg peaks at 90 deg and drops to zero crossing the zero axis and peaks at minus 180 degs, then peaks again with opposite polarity at or 270 degrees...

This is likely not really a problem. Your connection scheme is ok. Not as good as bus bars, but totally fine. Because LFP batteries have a such a flat charge/discharge curve, minor differences (in battery characteristics, cable lengths, connection resistance, etc.) can cause batteries to charge...

Ah, I see. Wiring them together in parallel won’t help you. Having them at the same voltage tells you nothing about SoC (edit: unless voltage is above 13.6V), and that’s what you need to get equal. I don’t have a suggestion for how to balance those batteries with only a 48V charger. You might...

Yes, this should work well. The Ah to charge and the Ah to discharge should be at least very close to the same with LFP. Energy (Wh) will be different, but as discussed elsewhere on the forum, Ah is a better capacity measure anyway. One thing to consider is at what current you’ll stop charging...

You’re right that SA’s website says it should already come activated, but it looks like that’s what’s missing. You may need to connect it to the internet (just once) and click that green ‘Register Site’ button at the top. Then it should work with no internet afterwards.

Check the documentation for your solar generator, and unless it specifically says that you can do this, don't do it. The problem is syncing the AC sine waves and keeping them in sync, which usually requires some sort of communication.

If you don’t have code requirements for metal conduit and just want to make it look tidy (and protect from things catching on it), cable raceway is an option that’s not too expensive:

A few things: Count on Starlink drawing more like 50W in heavy use, maybe 30-40 on idle. Turn off heating for the summer, it'll push that up to more like 200W intermittently. I'm guessing the cabin is in Canada, so overnight low temps could be enough that heating activates. Don't neglect the...

Just making a note on your silence about the fate of any bystanders... ;)

The manufacturers also say to put these cells in an EV and charge and discharge them at 1C, but none of us are doing that either. Our use case is vastly different from what the cell manufacturers intended. In my opinion the majority of us will calendar-age these things to death long before we...

"The half-life of that company was somewhat shorter than expected." This is gold.

This is pretty much what should happen. The charge curve is very flat, so you're storing energy without the voltage changing much. This is 3.525V per cell, and really not that bad. At this point, your battery is charged. This is a good thing. If it's accurate, it means you have more...

Exactly. And if ‘they’ (presumably oil companies) knew about it and were keeping it from ‘us’, they would definitely be using it in their own processes. And working in that industry for 20 years, I can assure you they are doing no such thing.

Not to harp on this too much, but your diagram isn’t correct. Your negative cable from the battery needs to go: Battery -> BMS -> Shunt -> Bus Bar The shunt needs to see all current going in and out of the battery on the negative side.

To be blunt: Don’t fuck around with cells in series without a BMS. Just don’t. I’m guessing a BMS wouldn’t have helped with whatever happened, but still. Disassemble your battery until the BMS arrives. If you measure each cell with a voltmeter individually and they all show 3.2 to 3.3, the...

This will work but take a long time. If your cells are nearly empty, it will take 74ah * 16 cells / 10a = 118 hours, or about 5 days. If you want to speed it up, you can assemble into the final pack (with BMS!!) and charge with the Multiplus until the BMS cuts off charging, then disassemble and...

You don’t need a fuse for a single panel going to a charge controller. Fuses protect from overcurrent, but you have no possible source for current other than the panel, and it’s short circuit current is only 1.83 Amps, which won’t hurt the panel, or the wire, or the SCC.

Short answer: It's not possible. Longer answer: I don't think those Renogy 500A monitors are capable of communicating with anything. But even if they were, Renogy does a great job of making sure that their equipment won't communicate with anything other than their own monitoring solution (the...

Agreed. Programming with the display is a pain.

No, the VA ratings are independent of the input voltage. Your 24/500 is built for 500VA only, and I think the continuous rating in those is a little lower, so your 500W heater will eventually overload the inverter. Might want to step up that size a little. What will change between a 12V and a...

Also, this is a bad idea, but I see that others have been recently telling you this on another thread, so I will stop beating the dead horse... Now.

That’s not an MPPT controller. From the Amazon description: I think someone on the forum has a rule of thumb that if the SCC has a USB charging port, it’s PWM with a sticker on it. And that’s what this is.

I guess it depends on how much of a rush you're in to get the five out-of-balance banks balanced... If it's no rush and they aren't limiting your ability to operate your system, go ahead and save some money with the 1A balancers. As long as you're regularly getting pack voltage high enough to...

That inverter is a rebranded SRNE: SRNE 5000W inverter

That’s not how that works. Current isn’t additive in a series arrangement. If you look at your proposed 40.8V and 24.55A, that’s over 1000W out of five 100W panels. Seems unlikely, right? The current you’d actually get would be more like 9.8A from the weaker of the two parallel sets. I think...

This isn’t a problem for LFP batteries. They’ll get along just fine.

These aren't answer to any of the questions. Are the two 48V batteries connected in the same way as the old 24V batteries (i.e., in series)? If so, you've made a 96V battery and your inverter will be very unhappy about that. What is the voltage at the battery terminals? Not the state of...

That could probably be accomplished with some smartly placed solar disconnects, but you'd need to make sure that your system would be safe if you happened to have all panels connected to one MPPT on a sunny day. Even if you wouldn’t plan to do that on purpose, you don’t want an unexpected hole...

I don’t know of any off the shelf solutions, but this would be very doable with an Arduino, and unlike RPi’s these days, Arduino’s are still dirt cheap. There’s some detailed info on measuring voltage here: https://dronebotworkshop.com/dc-volt-current/ Add a relay and program a little logic...