Ill admit, having the rings come straight off the top and bottom served an ulterior future motive for growth. With this design, i could add another 3x12 pack below the exiting one to parallel two packs together. Again, this is for future growth. I just want a design that will accommodate that...
Yes, each sell will have its own fuse using the battery hookup fused nickel sheets. I believe they pop at anything over 10amps directly to the cell. Thr copper wires job (if im understanding things) is to help even the draw across the whole strip, handle the amps, and provide a way to connect...
i got the console running, but it doesnt see the device and i have no USB icon lit up on the device. Ive filed for a return. Somethings wonky with this unit.
They are nickel plated steel. Here is a link with more info that you may find interesting. https://batteryhookup.com/products/nickel-fuse-5p-wide-continuous-roll-by-the-foot-18650-cell-level-fusing?variant=29596921823311.
This was interesting:
" For example, if you had a 20 cell parallel pack 2...
You can ignore the generator, i wont be using one. For an inverter, im not sure yet. My peak production is about 7.5kwh (~50kwh daily total), my GT is 7.6kwh.
Do you guys have any suggestions on an inverter that would be scale able if i decide to add more batteries?
If i were pulling 100amps continuous, that would be only 50 per side of the bar in my configuration, effectively halving the temperature, correct? It would not need to be bent much, just a slight tweak to create a 1in gap or so between the packs. Remeber these copper bars will be facing...
Is this what you were referring to? The grey spots are empty. For the soldering, ive heard of guys zip tying the copper bar to these nickel plates with great success as well. No solder needed.
I would prefer to do it on my own, as the price of those "professional" jobs are crazy.
Our monthly average usage is about 600kwh.
For back up, ideally id like to do the fridge, chest freezer, water pump, heat pump water heater, outlets, and lights.
I know that sounds like alot, but during...
So it sounds like all Ill need is a hybrid inverter and batteries. I plan to build the battery out of recycled 18650 cells harvested from 2-3yr old laptops.
@Ampster I reached out to the company that installed my solar panels to inquire about their offerings. This was their reply.
It seems they are not aware of the Hybrid solution. Is there any reason going the Hybrid Inverter route would impact my SRECs?
Skybox it is!
About 3300$
Would my system (48v 100ah) be enough to power my well pump if needed? (kicks on runs for about 20 seconds, shuts off). Doesnt run at night and would basically use no battery during the day. But in the event it kicked on at night, i wanted to be sure my system can...
Ok, it sounds like 6awg wire will work for running the length of the pack with a ring terminal on the end to connect to the next pack in series, correct?
I also picked up some watt meters for the appliances i plan run off the batteries.
Here is my Fridge. Its normally around the 169w/1428mA...
And to connect in series, i would connect the top and bottom positive ring terminals to the Top and bottom of the negative side of the next pack, correct?
I have decided to do my pack by making 2 rows of 17cells (34 total) in parallel. I will make 14 like this and series them together. My BMS can handle 120amps, but i cant imagine ill ever be pulling more than what my well pump uses at startup for 30amps for about a 1/4 of a second. With my fridge...
Correct, the pics of the other guys packs was just for perspective on what im doing and how it would look. With mine being only 2 cells wide, only one strand of wire till fit down the middle. I understand what you are saying hedges with the taps, but i would much rather use a single wire is...
Thanks for the info GX.
I was talking with a buddy of mine who has me seriously considering switching over to Lifepo4 batteries instead. About the same price, easier to setup, and safer. Ill also end up with around 14kwh vs the 5kwh of this pack.
Ampster, thanks a ton for all your help. It is very much appreciated. What would you suggest for a 48v system to fit my needs (well pump, freezer, fridge, hotwater heater, wifi, and laptop (for work))?
You should be able to update the software. That should'nt require an output, just an Input to turn it on. I would think Windows would need to detect it as a device before the software could see it. Do you have the little USB icon lit up on the charger (#20 below)
I tried that as well, no...