Most reacted posts

here is an example from one of Wills videos, where he has 2 different battery racks wired like this. But im not sure if the wires that come with the batteries you got (EG4-LL) are ment to carry the current of 2x batteries. The EG4 LifePower4 batteries I got are ment to only carry the current...

I just had an issue with my AC output voltage jumping around. I’m running the washing machine. First I noticed a flickering light in the master bedroom, which has never happened before. I check and output voltage is jumping around 109-125v on the inverter running the washing machine (it also...

I’m glad to know I’m not alone with this PV issue. @NVCYberPro can you check the voltage on your PV input before you disconnect and reconnect it? Mine hovers at 90v before disconnecting and reconnecting. After the reset, voltage jumps to ~200v range. does yours “fix” itself in cases of high...

i challenge you to go to the SOK Battery facebook group. just because issues with other manufacturers arnt being posted here, doesnt mean they dont exist. 3rd post on LiTime (AmpereTime) Club facebook group now: "Has anyone had luck getting replacement batteries under warranty? Litime was...

The fact is says 58v for bulk and float is kind of misleading. Using EG4 setting I see my batteries charge at full until they get around 56v. Then the amps going to the battery are limited to 10a from each of my 2 inverters until it reaches 56.4v. Then it lowers the amps even more like a normal...

I believe what you are looking for @surfergirl is called "inter row spacing". I saw a calculator for one recently, but I cant remember which one. If you google "solar panel inter row spacing calculator" you should be able to find a few. You can look for one you like and cross reference them...

@Nomad Mods Here is something else you can try besides setting the Float to a different voltage to help pin down if the problem is what we think it is. Try resetting the PV before it limits the power. Either early in the morning or late at night. Then see if goes to 56v. Also if you still...

im running my whole home off of just 2, but its just me and I have propane for heating / cooking if needed. Lately ive had enough solar to heat and cook partially with electric. water heater is all electric and thats my biggest use of power

hmm I didnt realize this ! I was going by this post: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/eg4-ll-battery-optimal-charge-rate.54761/post-701034 and the spec sheets

Its right on SS website. Lifepower4 is UL 1973 LL is UL1973, UL9540A was literally typing the same thing @Rusty959 lol

It doesnt look like SOK says anything about storing their batteries in the manual. But this is from the EG4 LL and LifePower4 manuals. Recommended to store at 100%, but I think thats so that if you forget about checking on them, they dont drop too low. The battery itself would probably be...

Here is the page from the manual that describes how to set the dip switches for the LL This was taken from SS website. https://signaturesolar.com/eg4-ll-lithium-battery-48v-100ahd Looks like ID:1 is the correct one to start with as your host battery that connects to your inverter. and...

you should be fine to do this. usually the MPPTs function separate anyway so I see no reason at all you would need to use both for it to work. if you did need to use both i would be very very surprised and i think that would be a huge mistake by whoever manufactured the SCC.

what do you use for heat? you must live somewhere warm, or use the grid for electric heating, or have a woodstove...? Im off grid with no woodstove yet, so I need propane for the moment. Ive only been using my system since the start of this year and I had to be pretty selective with the hot...

Well I am pretty much out of ideas on what to do to troubleshoot besides some simple stuff like making sure connections are tight and restarting all batteries. The only other thing I can think of to narrow it down is charge with only one inverter at a time (shut off solar input to the other...

are you talking about a N/G bond? Looks like you are off grid with these? No Utility input going to them? There should be only one N/G bond somewhere in your system. I believe the correct way to do it if you are off grid is to: 1. Remove any N/G bond that is in the inverters (do you know...

-Is your setting 5 in EG4 mode? If so then it will automatically set setting 26 and 27 to 58v. and you cant change it (the amps going to the battery will be limited via setting 2 in order to hit the correct Bulk / Float charge). One of my thoughts about the limiting PV is that supposedly the...

Nomad isn’t having this 90v phenomenon. They are experiencing something different.

its pretty much only the height of water that creates pressure, not the volume of the water. think about swimming to the bottom of an inground pool and the pressure you experience. to get that same volume of water above you when swimming in the ocean you wouldnt have to go down far. but you...

I think with Tesla things will be more seemless. They have a nice app, battery and inverter are the same manufacturer, good software for selling back to the grid. It’s like getting a Macintosh computer. It’s name brand and designed for people that don’t know anything about it’s components. Set...

This looks to me like a good way to do it. Yes there is a correct way to do it. You want to go to opposite sides of the battery bank. What you have in your diagram is not quite right. Same goes for the the charge controller. You want it to go to opposite sides of the battery bank. Right now as...

so F71 - Firmware version inconsistant? or 71(!) - If battery status is not allowed to discharge after the communication between the inverter and battery is successful, it will show code 71 to stop discharging battery do you still get one of those faults after resetting all the batteries and...

LRA or Locked Rotor Amperage will happen every time you start the unit. Its equivalent to surge wattage. For example my well pump has a FLA (Full Load Amperage) of 5.0a a SFA (Service Factor Amperage) of 6.2 and a LRA (Locked Rotor Amperage) of 18.0a. So essentially the surge wattage needed...

I’m definitely going to invite them out. My town only has 1000 people in it, so idk if they will want to make the trip or if I should also contact the fire dept of the nearby city.

I just wanted to point out that in EG4 setting, the voltage will not reach anywhere near 58v as far as I have seen. The 58v is merely a placeholder. When I had 4 Lifepower batteries, each inverter (split phase) would limit itself to 10a around 55.0v. And then it would use the 10a to creep up to...

My 2P1 inverter that has been working fine is older hardware (black terminals) and 79.02. The other one, 2P2, that hovers around 90v is newer hardware (grey terminals) and 79.03 (OP was having this issue on one of his inverters that was 79.03, but his other one that was working property was also...

here is the data you posted in a chart i think you can see an example of the phenomena i was describing at 26min you are charging at ~60a. then more power is available and charging jumps to >80a. this causes a spike in voltage, which im assuming goes over your set Bulk voltage, as the SCC...

I have seen people speculate about this as well. But there’s this from SS: “The LP4 batteries go up to 58V to reach 100%. They are different cells and BMS than the LL. I will follow up with the EG4 guys to see why we have a discrepancy in the manual.” https://diysolarforum.com/posts/674322/...

From the manual for the EG4 6500 EX-48 https://signaturesolar.com/content/documents/EG4/EG4_6.5_Manual_2.3.0.pdf

I’m just saying it will dissipate slower than if it was above ground surrounded by air. I don’t even know how you would do a calculation for R-value of soil in the earth because R-value is usually based on a thickness (per inch), so when you have a theoretical mile of dirt below your chamber...