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Only if the hotty is included, might need mouth to mouth

I guess its good thing I have back up power

Well crap, I thought that was how it works but I trusted the homedepot guy, thank you

I have decided to go with feeding a 50 amp double poll breaker and avoiding the lugs all together, I'm not a fan of the cheap push button breakers in the growatt , i really appreciate your help and very detailed explanations

The response I got from seplos when I asked for the cell manufacturer was that they produce the cells and I was send a data sheet with cell info and all it has is their name on it

I will test it another day, also I was curious if I have everything connected correctly so I used my travel trailer EMS to test it and I get no errors, it shows proper grounding etc, I disconnected my earth ground to see if it changed anything and I got no warnings, I'm guessing the NG bond is...

Growatt already hadls a 40 amp breaker built in but I see some videos feeding a double poll and other feeding the lugs, I guess feeding a breaker is just extra safety measure

That's what I tried to say, I was originally having 2.3 amps on my ground when i was using AC in to charge my batteries and he said it's because the cords, when I did the bond from neutral to neutral the 2.3 amps went away

That's what I was thinking but wanted it confirmed, thank you

Most likely they are to small, another ember said something about not running two hots in parallel but I was confused, I guess it comes down to either buying 4 wire SO cord or 3 wire SO cord

Okay, my issue is with the split panel and having two multiwire branch circuits to work with, two growatts would be nice since I would get two phase but I'm back into the parallel issue, the mpp would be nice but again I have the multiwire branch circuits, the 5000 is an option like you said but...

Sounds good

No, sorry

I was thinking 100 amp per inverter 3000÷48×1.25=78.125 but round up to 100 amp fuse, I would rather run two separate fuses/breakers just so I have redundancy and of one inverter has a problem I van just move breakers around to the leg that is still good, I searched gopower and they say I need a...

Sounds good, I will add some 4 awg positives and see how it goes, can't believe I spent hours calculating how to make all of the cables the same length

My plan is hooking to the house but I might need to use cords until I get the transfer switch done, just want to get things running and update as I go.

I am required to follow all 2017 NEC regulations so guess I have some figuring to do

So two growatt 3000TL it is, now to call an electrician to see if he wants to help, thank you for all of your help

Those are eve cells, according to seplos they manufacture the cells they use so im not sure if theirs are UL or not, the website has a lot of information but not the details I need, guess I will need to wait for two weeks while they are celebrating Chinese new year

Very strange

I have read through the spec sheet that signature solar has posted under this breaker and I don't see anything that says DC, lots of info I don't understand so I guess it could be listed somewhere. https://signaturesolar.com/nadar-dc-circuit-breaker-48v-125-amp/

I thought about that but waaay out of my price range plus everything else would still need UL listed (panels, wire, combiner box, inverter etc etc Etc, im kinda stuck with the 6548 because of price, im just not sure how it would all work with my transfer switch

I always over size my wire just for any future upgrades but the breaker thing is what confuses me

No inspections being done, doing everything as a temporary install, when I talked to the local inspections office I was told that of its temporary they don't have any need to do an inspection, similar to having a transfer switch, as long as the switch is inspected they can't control what is...

Okay, I will wire it in, I really appreciate all of your help, your good at getting confused people straightened out, thought I knew basic electrical but then I started into DC stuff and it's a nutty world

That makes sense, an electrician should be able to do that for fairly cheap, no need to use my transfer switch, wanted to use it since I already owned it but if I can use a cord then even better, would just need to do all of this in my basement which would be about a 8 foot run

Oh, I would have guessed that the main breaker would need to be larger then any breaker down stream but then I guess that wouldn't necessarily make sense since a 100 amp service has more then 100 amps worth or breakers pulling from it

I get that, just making what you were saying clear in my head

I'm probably gonna abandon my transfer switch due to 4 of my circuits being multiwire branch circuits, i have an electrician coming to see about doing a transfer switch on the bottom half of my split buss

I have two electricians coming amd both said that on a job this small they wouldn't even get the inspector involved

Oh okay, I am pulling from 15 amp circuits so I will use my 12 awg but eventually upgrade it to 10 when I get time, still working out the details and playing around with things (not playing with electrical experiments though) I really appreciate all of your help on this

Off to get some 6 AWG

I have the lvm es and it had NG bond, the response you received doesn't even match your own testing unless they are saying your model has dynamic switching and only had NG bond under battery and not AC input

Watts247 said the issue was fixed with new shipments and if older units do the firmware update but seems like will prowse and another guy I watch called lithium solar are still looking into it so I'm waiting to see if they can confirm it

That brings me back to the lv6048 model

Very strange, wonder if hrowatt in theory infinite wisdom has multiple grounds on some older models

AC out back feeds a double poll 25 amp breaker, AC in is bring fed with 20 amp extension cords plugged into separate outlets on different phases ( cords are temporary)

Thats what I was thinking, just wasn't sure if I should use panel ground or separate earth ground if I made it put to be a solar generator with no ties to my house

Can you elaborate a bit more please, my brain is clogged up with all of this information I have need getting and now you joined in and it sounds like the update did fix it as I was told, im not sure what you mean by no ground fault conditions downstream

I could use those on other projects, unfortunately I need 300 amp capacity

One panel but getting AC in from house grid power

So

From the label on the panel aren't the only two top most double poll on the top bus?

So to test for this dynamic bonding what steps do I follow? If I have battery with no AC input how do I test and what am I looking for? With AC input and using grid to charge batteries how do I test it and what am I looking for? I also have my system grounded to my main house ground, what do I...

Apparently it does I have an electrician coming eventually to do some small changes but he said everything looked good so im not sure whats going on, easy fix means several hundred bucks in electrical talk

I need more space for grounds, is it code to install a ground bus on the surface (not in a box)? I am trying to install some surge protectors and the bus in my box is full

I could go with two of the growatt 3000TL models and run in parallel to get split phase but im trying to keep things simple

As of now I am running each inverter separately due to the current on ground when wired split phase, seems to signature solar that no matter how it's wired I need the screws installed even when I have a NG bond in my panel that is wired to the inverter AC output, I was also told that if I use...

I dont think i have a short, apparently my subpanel is bonded neutral but not sure of that counts, not sure if using my transfer switch changes anything or not though

It's a dead link, but I'm sure it's not cheap

I guess he could but if its done by an electrician what could he do?

I have some seplos BMS version 1's and some tian power BMS's, I am trying to connect them together for communication with solar assistant, does anyone know how to set the dip switches to make this work? It appears they use different protocols but I'm not 100% sure.

How does dynamic bonding work when two units are wired in split phase and both units have the internal NG bond screw in?

I have a DIY battery kit that came with higee cells, I noticed that 8 of the cells have a white frost type residue on the under side of the vent cover, all of the cells have minor swelling around the anode and cathode, my main concern is the white frost substance, I have contacted the battery...

Great, just what I need, I do know its a split bus panel and that is some old technology but still good

25 DIY, hire it out and probably 500

Maybe you have an answer, i have been told by several members and confirmed from growatt that the growatt 3000TL lvm-es already has the N-G bond screw removed so that the bonding can be done at the panel, I was told that on the U.S version of the MPP lv6548 N-G bond screw is still in place but...

Okay, what about using two growatts, does that put me back into the issue of the grounds So still best to use two growatt's, does that cause a ground issue though since I'm running two of them

Yes, checked with multimeter, no current on ground when running individually but get current when in splitphase, watts247 said to run wire from AC input to AC output to fix the problem. Signature solar is useless when it comes to any help, working with growatt themselves to figure things out...

Okay, so if I wire my transfer switch as instructed, run a 6 awg wire from the inverter to a L14-30 receptacle, run a jumper from X to Y i should be good to go? I will get my panel fixed so that I don't have bonded neutrals just for peace of mind, im not sure how many amps the AC input on the...

Back feed is a problem? Why? When I only have one inverter plugged into AC in I habe zero current on the ground but when I plug both in then I get current on the ground

BMS's have a reset/on off switch but wanting something easier amd faster then waiting for all 3 BMS'S to shut down

Buy a bus bar, bolt it to the panel connect grounds to it, connect 6 awg bare copper ground to new bus bar, run it through to outside panel and connect it to neutral bond bus outside?

I'm not sure what to do now, just when I think I have it figured out I find out I don't have anything figured out, never thought it would be so hard to just run a few critical loads off of a back up power supply

That ls how I have it set up to run, the confusion I have now is signature solar is saying that no matter howi have it wired I need to have the growatt screws installed. I have both screws removed in growatts, when off grid I have an earth ground, NG bond done I the panel On grid would still...

Dangerous for what I want to do or in other ways?

Never seen one before

Oh, maybe I'm just misunderstanding things, so to test it I need to be running grid for passthrough?

I posted the specs for the mason

Me again, if I cut my dryer feed and wire it directly to my 100 amp sub panel lugs I would then feed my dryer with a double poll 30 and then use a double poll 40 to feed each growatt or would it be a double poll 20? Sorry for so many questions but after reading through our previous conversations...

I'm trying to work with what I have but unfortunately I don't think I have anything to work with