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Here are some progress photos. I still need to cleanup some things, but since my camper won't be here for another couple months, I'm not in a big hurry.

Yes.

Thanks a bunch!

That is my fall back. I believe I can get another cell locally, so my shipping time won't be so bad.

I think I found the problem. One of the little crimps was flaky. Sometimes it tested as a complete circuit and sometimes it didn't.

Yes, I was planning on following this video to add fuses. I don't need the lights, so I figured I would save a few bucks by buying the power in instead of the distributor.

I took it to a local machine shop. They got the threaded rod out and retapped a few threads inside the hole. I've attached a few pictures for reference.

Yes. They put the batteries toward the front of the camper, and that's where I'm going to put mine as well. I suspect things will ride better with the batteries in front of or as near as possible to the rear axle. My batteries aren't stacked, because I was worried about putting the batteries on...

I'll swap out the bms tonight and work on getting some pictures. Thanks for your help!

Here is a revised layout and schematic. I went a bit overboard with the #2 wire and breakers, since I had extra wire and 125a mega fuses.

I just posted my layout and schematic on the post about my build.

I don't want 48v because that makes some of the parts much more difficult. Can you explain what the concern is with two BMS in series without comms?

I guess you are right that I'll probably have trouble connecting 4 wires to the shunt and fuse. I'll add the bus bars. I was planning on using 1/0 from each battery since no single battery will carry more than 100amps. The wires coming from the negative side of the BMS are tiny compared to 1/0...

It sounds like I'll be better off with a Victron rated for 3000VA than one of those others rated for 3000W. Thanks!

Every time I've had his problem, I eventually found a bad crimp on the little balance cables.

I think I read that as well at some point. I think I'm going to stick with the Renogy DC-DC charger anyway. If Victron offered something that would carry a similar number of amps, I'd probably switch, but I don't want to run multiple DC-DC chargers.

Yes. I'm factory upgrading the alternator by around 120a.

Are the Samlex Evo chargers low frequency? If so, would the Samlex Evo-3012 be a better fit since it actually provides 3000w and is around the same cost?

I'm planning on building the battery packs in pairs anyway, so maybe I do two class t fuses and then don't do the positive bus bar?

I fed the data for the panels into this webpage (https://www.explorist.life/solar-charge-controller-calculator/) and used the peak voltage and amps to select my SCC. I'm planning on putting them all in parallel, so the voltage will stay pretty low to the SCC, but the output would be just below 80a.

F450. The alternator will be the 398a.

Now I'm second-guessing myself on the 3000VA being enough to carry the air conditioner... Since I have plenty of time, I'm thinking I might switch to larger JBD 24v 300A BMS and go with the Samlex Evo-4024. I think I can save around $500 by going that direction by doing the following: Eliminate...

So, if the BMS are 120 the Samlex would work? I don't think I really need the extra 600watts. But if the cost is pretty much the same, I think I would rather have the higher capacity.

Here's the picture from Amy of the BMS. They do say 100A

Not yet. I'll try that.

Good point. The place I had heard about is out of 304Ah batteries. Looks like I need to find a machinist in the Houston area.

I don't think so. If I find it is getting too hot, then I will probably add some fans to circulate the air. There are already some air ducts connecting the camper to that area to keep the pipes from freezing. Also, I want to make sure the batteries don't freeze, so being close to the water tanks...

My battery bank will be 4 sets of 4 EVE batteries with 100A JBD BMS on each set. The batteries will be arranged with 2 packs paired in parallel to a class T fuse block and another 2 packs in parallel to a second class T fuse block. After the fuse the two pairs are connected in parallel to a...

This is all a good discussion, but after thinking through my energy needs, I think I will stick with the Multiplus and Renogy DC-DC charger. I think 2400 watts will be enough. And I think the DC-DC charger might be a little easier on the truck (vs the inverter).

I'm interested in seeing how your system turns out. I really like the layout of the Adventurer 910DB. If we weren't getting a Mammoth, I think we would be buying the 910DB.