Most reacted posts

You can do an unattended bottom balance with a power supply. First set the supply to the desired bottom voltage across the load resistor then connect the battery pack.

It sounds like they're saying yes to two specific lithium chemistries (NMC and LFP) and no to the 18650 (LCO) battery packs although I'm not sure why. It would be interesting to know what EPever says about it.

The purpose of the load resistor is to drain the battery down to the bottom voltage. The power supply, depending on it's type, can also be a load but that is suboptimal.

I run UPS on my sensitive electronics and transfer switches that switch individual house wiring circuits between grid and solar. Since the transfer switch is obviously break-before-make the UPS will prevent reboots as you say. But I'm not following you at all on the power supply thing. BTW the...

That unit has mixed reviews and if it's dropping voltage it's going to get hot and fail sooner rather than later. You should probably select another brand. Generally when I go cheap I go DROK. Their stuff has worked pretty well for me.

APC: APC BE Series (standby) APC BR Series (line-interactive) Cyberpower: SLG Series (standby) AVR Compact Series (standby) 600VA 685VA 750VA 825VA AVR-LCD Series (line-interactive) 850VA 1000VA 1350VA 1500VA PFC-LCD Series (line-interactive) 850VA 1000VA 1350VA 1500VA...

I don't know if this is specifically relevant but... I operated hosting companies for 20 years, thousands of flat rate accounts, and some customers were so burdensome on my time (far beyond just unprofitable as an individual account) that I had no choice but to ignore them. I wanted to be...

Here you go. https://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-46828-Electrical-4-Pin-Dieless/dp/B00QGXDXOA

The manual has some seemingly conflicting specifications. I would run 2s5p per controller. I would not exceed 2s nor 6p per charge controller. That will be enough to bulk charge the T-105 batteries in a 8s2p 48 volt setup. The time of charge depends on the amount of solar production at the...

If this does what I think it does (not entirely sure) you could remove the relays on this board and run yours instead. What I think it does is convert high trigger to the pulses needed for the latching relays that are on the module...

Don't live on the sun. ;)

Yes. To be honest I went to Amazon, typed in cable crimper, then sorted High - Low. I use a $20 Temco and a BFH. A good multipoint crimper is going to be expensive. A single point crimper is going to vary in price depending on how much you want to spend to do the same job as every other...

It's doable. You will need a pure sine wave for charging a UPS. A modified sine wave inverter will make a UPS go crazy. https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=pure+sine+wave+car+adaptor&ref=nb_sb_noss

https://insideevs.com/news/406839/byd-blade-battery/

I did not look at those for my house but I can definitely see the appeal of an all-in-one for a van conversions. 60 amps of 24 volt solar charging is enough to run a 3000w inverter at half-power or about 500 watts continuous so it's not a lot of charging for a 3000 watt inverter. You're right...

Unfortunately the String Selection Tool will not calculate for 48 volt systems on the TS-60 even though the spec sheet says that model will do 48 volt systems except with very low voltage panels. The TS-60 is bordering on unusable for the panels that OP has.

The size... 24v 3000wH 493mm x 514mm x 222mm = 19.4" x 20.25" x 8.74" 50 kg = 110.23lb

open circuit/short circuit (won't happen) (2 * 44.2v) * (3 * 8.2a) = 2174.64 watts Theoretical max (also won't happen) (2 * 35.33v) * (3 * 7.5a) = 1589.85 watts Reasonably you can expect to get 1400 -1500 watts full sun from a 2s3p setup with those panels but the theoretical max should be...

They are almost all 300 watt. Some use battery clamps to go over 300 watts. If you run cables direct to the battery (which is a better idea than using the aux power socket) you can go over 300 watts. This one has multiple connection options and a display that will tell you if that UPS is...

Relays should put out what you put in. The other question is the power supply and the load. If you are overloading your power supply then the problem is not the relay. So if you are measuring each side under load, that is measuring a 2.1 volts drop across the relay, then yeah the DROKs should do...

When the Photon Sorcerer speaks people should listen?

You don't need a four port version. For two contactors run 12v+ through NO1/COM1 and NO2/COM2 separately to each coil+.

I think you'd be OK with a 2s5p setup. I haven't done parallel controllers with that particular controller but I think you'll be OK with that too. Match the charge profiles. More info. https://www.morningstarcorp.com/parallel-charging-using-multiple-controllers-separate-pv-arrays/

I'm betting the use case is that is what OP already has. ?

I use this at the breaker panel. Easy install and I reckon more easily removed. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TSJPQEO

Yes, including reptile heaters which have assorted useful dimensions. Also seedling mats including this flexible wraparound. http://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Waterproof-Seedling-Hydroponic-Standard/dp/B073PTZCJ4/

This is DIY so building something kinda similar to a UPS instead of buying a UPS sounds reasonable. A UPS is pass-through until the grid fails then it inverts from a grid charged battery. Running an inverter off of a power supply is nothing like a UPS. For starters it's missing the storage element.

https://www.nationsstarteralternator.com/Sprinter-Van-Dual-Kits-s/287.htm

Multimeter... Pics?

If you have separate charge/discharge paths then you should use the two contactor option that I described. If you have a common port setup then two contactors won't help. There is nothing about the contactor/module idea that effects system operation. That is all built within the system...

The inverter is 2000w surge so the breaker is undersized. 2000w/12v=167A.

It looks like your math checks out and charging under 12 hours is feasable. It depends on the shore power and the charger. You might barely get the juice back in fast enough from a 110vac/20a circuit and a 48v/35a charger. A 220vac/30a circuit and a beefy enough charger, like 48v/100a, would...

http://www.solar-elektro.cz/data/dokumenty/1733_modbus_protocol.pdf https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/nodemcu-esp8266-rs485-epever-solar-monitor-diy/ https://www.epsolarpv.com/upload/cert/file/1811/Tracer-AN(50-100A)-SMS-EL-V1.1.pdf

http://amazon.com/NETGEAR-Modem-Gigabit-Ethernet-Ports/dp/B01MQRHQYT/

https://battlebornbatteries.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/BB5024-Cut-Sheet.pdf • 60 Amps Continuous • 100 Amps Surge for 30 Seconds • ½ Second Surge for Larger Loads • High/Low Voltage Protection • Short Circuit Protection • High/Low Temperature Protection • Automatic Cell Balancing •...

If you have those inrush thermistors in your junk box then you're probably an HVAC tech.

I have an automatic transfer switch. The manual transfer switch is what I use to manage individual circuits. My autotransfer switches between grid/solar/generator. Since I normally get all my power from solar my autotransfer switches to grid if the batteries get low or to generator if the grid...

You might try connecting a rs485 sniffer to that eVault and see what sort of data you can get out of it. https://freeserialanalyzer.com/

What are the steps you took to double check and what were your observations and measurements?

It's a PWM solenoid driver. The device uses full power to energize the solenoid then modulates the voltage to keep the solenoid closed while using less power. Removing the timer removes the modulation...

If you want the big amps you're going to need an industrial sized battery charger. I don't have a specific recommendation because I charge with solar but I can show you some examples. Ask here about any others you find and maybe someone else will chime in with high current chargers to recommend...

If OP has an old school 10 amp cigarette lighter socket that's going to be a problem. It looks like charging on that UPS draws at most 150 watts. So with a decent power socket (my Ford is 20a and my Jeep is 15a) it will work to keep a UPS topped off. Still there are plenty of cases where it...

That 120 watt kit is pushing the limit at least and probably flat out too much.

An expandable system can include a "buy once" charge controller with high enough PV voltage and multi-voltage output so that you can add panels and increase the voltage of your battery bank without buying another controller. The 12v - 24v jump can be more expensive if you have to buy another...

Put aside the BMS issue for a second. Connect your inverter straight to the 24v battery and verify that the inverter/battery combination works. Does it work? If yes then take a moment of joy then go back to the BMS issue.

MPP makes a bunch of PIP models. Can you provide a specific model number and a link to the unit you have in mind? MMP has some models which are optimized for pumps. https://www.mppsolar.com/v3/sp-series-3-phase .

Just a thought but if you pick up a standby UPS at a garage sale and put new batteries in it what remaining issues would you have? Other than a spare inverter that is. I run old APC Network Powercell BD series (standby) UPS. I have 8 of them I bought in the 90's located all over my house and...

For privacy with local WIFI/Bluetooth devices. - Old phone - No sim card - Wiped, rooted, and ROMed. (CyanogenMod or whatever) - GPS location spoofing If you don't have an old phone buy one. They're cheap.

Sealed is fine and 150AH if the batteries are in series for 24 volt or 300 AH if the system is 12 volts. If your panels are over-producing or for "vacation mode" you can also use GEL which skips the equalize stage.

I don't see any wiring errors but your power sources are not shown. There are two red leds and one green led (near IN2) on the module. If the green led is not lit then the module does not have power. Check your grounding. You should have zero volts between DC- and COIL-. If you have the Chargery...