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Both, though at this point tilting them is more trouble than it's worth. Notice the gap at the red arrow. There is a teflon washer there so the joint moves smoothly with the bolt nice and tight.

A photon checks into a hotel and is asked if he want's any help with his luggage. No thanks he says, I'm traveling light.

I had a career in California utility power production. A 50 mw gas turbine unit can be online and at full power in around 5 minutes. The problem is California makes the emissions rules impossible to meet or even get a permit to build. The technology is there, the problem is the lawmakers and...

The challenge with a homebuild is busbars and fuse holders at different heights or otherwise dimensionally incompatible. I have a Lynx Distributor and highly recommend it. Another option is the BEP Pro Installer system. All the components are the same height. BEP Pro Installer System

I have all the 4/0 done, all marine grade wire. They say it's flexible. I suppose it is....compared to a steel rod! But it gives me a warm fuzzy so it's worth the work to me. It's under the bed in the basement. The chutes (wire guides) on the Lynx distributor were too narrow for heavy duty...

Yes you can. I did that with my WFCO 8955. That bottom charger section pops right out and the Orion fits perfectly. My batteries are at 24v so my unit just supplies the 12v distribution system but it's all relative. It will work.

One Victron MultiPlus True Sine Wave Inverter Charger 24V 3000w 70Amps 120v, brand new sealed in the box - $850! I'm going build a system on my travel trailer and I agonized over whether to go 12v or 24v. This deal made it a no brainer! This is the first major component and all the devices will...

I envy people that can do CAD drawings or even powerpoint. I have to do the caveman method of making cardboard templates the exact size of my panels. That way I can do everything from seeing what and how everything fits to setting the mounting brackets. Then the panels just drop in.

I made hinged mounts with aluminum strut channel and angle. Solid channel, 4" long with three .250 holes drilled. Center hole is into aluminum rafter the other two into 3/8 plywood sheathing using #14 sheet metal screws. All hardware is stainless.

I like Andersons. If you're worried about the cover coming off just get a second set and make dummy plugs. I have this on my truck, it works great. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R6P3WDM/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1

I live in northern California. Pay no attention to what the news and ads say, go into a dealership and see for yourself what it will cost to get anything out the door. You may be surprised (or shocked). I would never buy an RV from a dealer FWIW...

Power companies own easements to every service they provide. It really doesn't matter if there are statutes or laws relating to solar interconnection or not. The power company owns your service, not you. You'll play by their rules or you won't play. And the law is on their side.

My personal number one best crimper ever for 10awg and smaller. It says it's for non insulated terminals but it works fine on insulated as well, it's all in the technique. FWIW I hate insulated terminals unless they're the shrink type. Thomas & Betts WT111M

BEP solved that problem with their Pro Electrical Installer System. Pro Electrical Installer System

As for working with 4/0, I made a stand for my crimping tool and it really made things better. Just a piece of scrap 2x6 and some leftover aluminum. You could just slot the board with a table saw or router for the same effect.

Panel frames are anodized, which is non conductive. I wouldn't stress over it. And don't go thinking that being grounded is going to make any difference whatsoever if your panel is actually struck by lightning ;)

Very seldom is shading not a concern with a camper in my experience. I would not set up a camper with series connected panels.

Mine have history too. After 21 years with the power company, mine came home with me when I retired. ?

Great price on a Cerbo GX and a Touch 70. Saved me almost $150, thanks Signature Solar!

Certainly. It's a Victron Orion 24/12-70 DC-DC converter. https://www.victronenergy.com/dc-dc-converters/orion-dc-dc-converters-12v-24v-48v-110v

Parallel and use 4 to 1 branch connectors. Most branch connectors are only rated at 30A, these are 50A: 50A 4 to 1 branch connectors I like this type because they can be mounted to the panel frame.

Yes, except for that last one. Connections re-torqued after more than 1 hour? Come on...? I've only drawn my batteries down about to 50 percent so far but my smart shunt data matches exactly with my battery data. My inverter biggest load so far has been 1800w from the microwave and it worked...

Any drill bit will wander, some more than others, especially in something as ductile as copper. Center cut end mills, as previously mentioned, are the perfect solution. Failing that, start the hole with a center drill or spot drill. Their whole point is no wandering. Then drill thru with any...

Interior work is pretty much done, just the panels and the combiner box left. Everything is playing nicely and as expected. No smoke! The Victron Orion 24/12/70 converter fits perfectly in the converter-charger spot in a WFCO 8955 power center.

Don't try it dry, use lube. Lots of lube and have a helper on the other end. Use mule tape.

I'm not convinced that panels need to be grounded on an RV, but mine are because my aluminum mounts are screwed into the aluminum trailer frame.

Nope. There's no reason to use the Multiplus temp sensor with your setup.

I just got mine, woohoo!

Utilities have two main concerns with interconnections. First and most obvious is safety. Second is power quality. And with smart meters on all the services in my district, they'll detect an anomaly and be knocking on your door real quick. Your meter will rat you out!

I didn't realize that someone beat me to this

It sounds like you're a machinist, I was too in another life long ago ? For the purpose of this discussion, a center cut end mill will work just fine in a decent drill press and vise. I don't think anybody's after .0005" accuracy. For me it's all about not having to deal with big honking burrs...

I'm hooked on marine grade wire. Best source I've found is: https://tinnedmarinewire.com/wire/

My panels are also 58x26. I used 6 brackets per panel, three #14 screws per bracket with the center screw in an aluminum joist. Brackets are 4" long and mounted with Eternabond tape followed by Dicor lap sealant all around and over the screws. Also slathered the screws with Dicor prior to...

I like to keep the amps as low as possible so higher voltage is always better in a mobile setup. Just my opinion, which is free and worth every penny...

Thank you!

Believe it or not, Mobile 1 grease is the exact same thing GE sells for$50+ for a toothpaste sized tube of corrosion inhibiting grease for high voltage switchgear contacts. We used it on utility substations and power plants.

Nah, this is high: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/strut-channel-for-roof-of-rv.20091/page-2#post-235752 These mounts will give me just enough height to get my arm under if I have to do any work, or a sponge pad ect. I've regretted having less than that on other projects. Keep in mind it's...

Nuclear power plants don't explode. Sure, radiation can get out but not by means of an EMP producing explosion.

The primary issue with rubber roofs is that the rubber isn't bonded to the substrate. It will lift right off. And if you press AM Solar they'll also tell you that they don't recommend mounting panels larger than about 100w on any mobile roof. I bought some of their little mounting brackets and...

$40 off coupon at Amazon for a 200ah Plus battery. All their batteries have coupons at various amounts. The coupon is per order so if you need more than one battery you have to order and pay individually. I bought two and the coupon applied on each...

If you don't already have an inverter of any kind I would start with the Multiplus and I would get a pair of the SOK 24v 100ah batteries. Series connected 12v SOK batteries won't work because discharge current will be limited to 100a. Parallel connected 24v batteries will give you 200a discharge...

I have 6 200w 24v panels, two pairs of three, in parallel and I did what Tito did: DIY gland using a box And then I took it a step further and made it a combiner box DIY combiner box

Rich Mega 200W 24V.

I'm sure static does build up on polar panels just like on the rest of your RV but I don't think it's enough to be concerned about. Ever touch a car and get zapped? I'm sure we all have.

I have an EPEVER Tracer BN Series 40A MPPT Charge controller on the solar side and a Renogy 20A DC-DC Charger on the alternator side. They feed 2 100ah sealed lead acid batteries. Can these be run in parallel or do they need to be isolated?

Yes the handle makes carrying easier. You have to bungee the crimper in place to carry it like a suitcase, otherwis you carry it with the handle down tucked under your arm. Either way it's a lot more convenient.

Wish I could make one of those Victron training sessions, dang!

As has already been pointed out, don't even think about mounting panels on a rubber roof with VHB tape.

I don't know what you have for a factory power/load center but I have a WFCO 8955 in my trailer. The garbage converter/charger pulls right out and a Victron Orion 24/12/70 converter fits perfectly in it's place. Very easy replacement. Powers all my house 12v DC including the slide, which pulls...