Recent content by Positronium

You could try using 12V power supply. The power supply voltage linked seems to be adjustable up to 15V and 30A is a great charging rate for the price. Using a quality multimeter set power supply voltage to just below 13.6V, a safe float voltage for lead acid and LiFePO4. This way you could...

That is Kapton tape.

I primarily build portable 4s LiFePO4 projects usually with 60A BMS and 60A breaker. The breakers mentioned earlier are my go to. The picture attached is one of my projects with the MidNite Solar Unpolarized DC breaker. I like having the breakers act as on/off while also providing circuit...

DC breakers above 100A are not cheap. Below are two stores with 250A panel mounted DC breakers. https://www.stellavolta.com/midnite-solar-mnedc250-circuit-breaker-250a-125vdc/...

The Junsi iCharger X8 has an overlooked power supply supply mode. The iCharger X8 is also a 8s balance charger with regenerative discharge. https://www.amazon.com/iCharger-Battery-Features-Capabilities-Current/dp/B07RNKLR8T/ref=dp_prsubs_1?pd_rd_i=B07RNKLR8T&psc=1 The specifications are in...

I haven't looked into them, I merely have seen other forum members mention them. Did a quick search and I found this listing on Ebay. Some that I saw would not have both A/C efficiency and price. This is what I could quickly find that had both. Costs about double what a comparable 120V AC mini...

For 25.6V nominal LiFePO4 system you need 8 cells in series; I am uncertain why you would need 10 or 12. You can go for 100A 8s BMS from Overkill Solar which includes Bluetooth module. https://overkillsolar.com/product/bms-100a-8s-lifepo4/ Batteryhookup.com has same BMS but sells Bluetooth...

Also the Vimp of the solar panels would be in the ballpark of 68V so your panels probably should be grounded. Appropriately sized fuse or breaker at battery positive terminal.

Avoid those inline DC breakers like the plague! Those breakers are problematic as they are notorious for not being able to handle the stated current. Buy reputable DC breakers brands like Eaton Bussmann, Blue Sea Systems, or Carlington (MidNite Solar or Outback Solar). You may want to add DC...

I would suggest in a combiner box in your garage. You would connect lightning protector to combiner box too; lightning protector prevents damage to SCC, battery, and inverter in event of lightning strike. PV wire is more expensive than ordinary wire so the wires from combiner box to SCC can be...

I think running parallel sets of 10AWG wires to a combiner box in garage is feasible. The advantages with parallel sets of PV grade 10AWG wires is that it is easy to source and because of economy of scale not overly expensive. The rest of the wire run from combiner box to SCC can be done with...

Yeah I was finishing up my post. When I finally posted I saw yours was two minuted earlier. Too bad they are out of the version with series connections. I would have liked to have had a quick uncycled 24V pack to test equipment I am thinking of buying.

You can make a superior 20Ah battery for less than any of those options without soldering or spot welding. I bought 8 Headway 38120S for around $170 with shipping from EvComponents. They also sell cell holders and cell busbars. The Headway cells are far more capable than any of cells in those...

Electroplating is not necessarily needed to tin copper. It is still requires the hydrochloric acid to make aqueous solution of SnCl2. An alternative is to buy the anhydrous SnCl2.

I use 100A TK-15 coulometers.