Most reacted posts

Assuming the 50A is the rated max output current to the battery then if there is enough wattage coming in that would exceed that output current then the output current is simply limited to the max, 50A in this case. Let's say you have a 12V battery and it is at 13.6V. The 50A output would be...

I suggest you use the 1/0AWG for all battery connections. Think about what happens if one battery shuts down for some reason. Now the load is across 3 batteries, not 4. What if two shut down? Now the load is across 2 batteries. 6AWG wire will become a safety issue. Also, using 1/0AWG for all...

What is a 25kW 280Ah battery? Assuming you meant 25kWh then 25kWh / 280Ah = 89.3V. That's a strange battery voltage. Something about these numbers isn't right. A 12V 280Ah battery would be 3584Wh and it can handle a 2kW load for 1.79 hours. A 24V 280Ah battery would be 7168Wh and it can handle...

Before putting batteries in series you need to balance them. This means you need a 12V battery charger. Charge each battery separately to 100% SOC. Then put all four in parallel and fully charge them together using the diagonal attachment method for the charger. Once charged, disconnect the...

You shouldn't need a battery balancer. The trick is to properly balance the two 12V batteries before you put them in series. If done correctly you shouldn't have any problems after that. Worse case you might need to rebalance the two batteries once a year. Start with a good LiFePO₄-friendly 12V...

I'm assuming you are talking about the (currently removed) fuse hooked up to the charge controller. It's hard too see in the picture but it looks like the charge controller has 20A output. So a 20A fuse is too small. The approach is to choose a wire that can safely handle the amps. Then you...

As stated, just 1 50A MPPT can handle both 300W panels wired in either series or parallel. Do not attempt to wire up 200W panels with your two 300W panels to the same charge controller. First, 600W is just about the max you can use on a 50A charge controller on a 12V system. Second, mismatched...

FYI - Wh (watt-hours), not Ah (amp-hours) The EG4 is 48V (51.2V) 100Ah which is 5120Wh (not Ah). At $1,500 that is $0.29/Wh The 16 3.2V 304Ah EVE cells would be 15,564.8Wh (not Ah). At $2,467 that is $0.16/Wh DIY gives 3x the battery at less than twice the price. Don't forget the EG4 is ready...

Would it be possible to update the forum software so it strips Amazon URLs to the bare minimum needed? Many people paste Amazon URLs into posts and most of these URLs contain far more junk than is necessary. Many look like this...

battery -> lug -> flat washer -> split washer -> nut You want the lug flat and tight against the battery terminal for best contact and least resistance. This is basically true for all electrical connections. Never have washers or other fasteners between the key electrical parts. The fasteners...

I think what you mean to state is that you used a total of 5kWh over the course of 16 hours and 10kWh over the course of 8. So you used a total of 15kWh in a day (24 hours). You can't just say 15k. You need a unit. Here's a quick overview of how this works. Let's say you have a light that uses...

Why? It is actually a valid discussion. I'm sitting 5" above 5.2kWh of LiFePO₄ batteries and a solar charge controller, and my back is 6" from my 2kW inverter (though it's not on at the moment) as I type this.

Rated panel wattage is Vmp x Imp. You are measuring Voc and Isc. Voc x Isc is about 33% higher than rated panel wattage. So take your Voc x Isc and multiply by 0.75 to get expected max wattage. Of course that's all based on perfect STC which you certainly didn't have when you made your...

Agreed. I have a 7x14 cargo trailer converted to a camper. The cargo trailer came with a small 12V battery in a box mounted to the side of the tongue. That battery is for the trailer's brakes. The 7-pin has a 12V line that controls the trailer's lights. I left all of that untouched. As part of...

Here's a final update. I ended up completely changing my rack design. The feet I was originally planning were going to be 1) a giant PITA and 2) far from ideal. My finished rack was much easier and it is much stronger and safer. But it is heavier. It consists of two main Superstrut (Unistrut)...

I would recommend that you do not use an inverter at all. The cameras require DC power. It will be a lot more efficient if you do not converter DC (battery) to AC (via inverter) and back to DC (via camera power brick). As for batteries, the 100Ah AGM is too small to power the cameras for a day...

An "all-in-one" is a single device that has an inverter, charger, automatic transfer switch, and solar charge controller. That's it. No solar panels, no batteries, no wires. Nothing strange about this. Everyone has different needs.

Options: 1) Spend a couple thousand dollars buying solar panels, a solar charge controller, inverter, batteries, wires, fuses, and a few other little things plus all of the time to mount the panels on the roof and hookup all of the other components. 2) Spend ??? dollars having power run out to...

You have an 85A charge controller so you need 4AWG wire and a 100A fuse between the SCC and battery. You can wire the charge controller directly to the battery just like the inverter. Though that may not be ideal. Using bus bars makes everything a bit neater and more organized. Plus it avoids...

Why do you say this? There is nothing on paper (or anywhere else) that makes any attempt to indicate that it should handle 6000W on the input. Most SCCs have three values. Wattage (input), max PV input voltage (input), charge current (output). Those three values are clearly stated as 520W, 150V...

CED Greentech has several locations in northern CA. https://www.cedgreentech.com

What kind of solar panel are you trying to attach? A flexible panel or a rigid panel? Keep in mind that flexible panels only last a couple of years so you want to make it easy to replace. Gluing it down will make that difficult. If it's a rigid panel then consider a more secure mechanical...

300A at 12V = 3600W. Doing that for 24 hours per day you use 86,400Wh/day. If you use LiFePO₄ you can use about 80% of the battery each day so that means you need a 108,000Wh battery bank. At 12V that's 9000Ah. If you bought 12V 300Ah batteries you would need 30 of them in parallel. That's...

Look at the actual specs: Not 24V. As was said, it's just a marketing term that just causes confusion.

When overpaneling (or not) you must be sure to never exceed the max PV input voltage of the SCC nor the max input Isc of the SCC.

I think there are several misconceptions here. Going to 48V does not mean you get more out of the system. If you bought 16 3.2V 100Ah battery cells you would have 16 x 3.2V x 100Ah = 5,120Wh of power. Those cells could be arranged into a 12V 400Ah battery, a 24V 200Ah battery, or a 48V 100Ah...

Everything I needed to ground has a machine screw on the case. I simply added a lug to the wire with the correct size hole for the screw. I just did a quick search and I found this page...

Here's a rough diagram. Each pair of batteries in a dashed box represents two batteries in series (the 2S). Two 12V batteries in series gives 24V. You have 3 pairs of these 24V batteries in parallel (the 3P). 3 sets of 24V batteries in parallel is still 24V but it's 3 times the amp hours. The...

See the I ↕︎ O symbol to the right of the red triangles? The I means on and O means off.

Veritasium just posted a follow-up video that is worth watching: