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I did the 100mA charge at near-full several times, and discharged it using a monitor with a shunt. Unfortunately I set it to 100ah at full charge, and when the monitor got to 0.000 it didn't record negative values, it just stayed there. But if I had to guess it was 104-105Ah and that was still...

I got an actual coulomb meter a few weeks ago and measured capacity, and it's fine... 106Ah both in charge and discharge. The Imax charger is just very inaccurate. I also took a 2 week camping trip where I used the battery in parallel with another similar one. I have an Epever Tracer and set...

It does trip at lower voltages, it hasn't made it it as high as 14.2 before the BMS tripped. Just checked the manual for the battery. Under the "Controller Settings" section, it says to use these values: 14.4V (charge/boost/bulk/absorption). Over voltage disconnect, 15.0V. Over voltage...

The pouch cells were a temporary change due to cost/difficulty of getting prismatics (supposedly), but I don't know if the prismatics would be any better. Except that if you want to take the pack apart, pouch cells would not be good! These sorts of batteries are good for people who don't want...

I've run several laptops directly from 12v systems for years, with no problem. There may be exceptions, but I don't think they are sensitive to input voltage at all, rather it's converted and stabilized internally.

The laptop is by far my biggest load, so I thought it made sense to optimize for it.

It is unconventional... but it's easy/cheaper/safer/more efficient/more reliable to have a system that directly powers the biggest load and most expensive device I use. Turning DC into AC then back into DC is way more complicated and is very inefficient.

I've only seen one where it was actually tested and it was 4-5% high compared to Victron. Do you know of other tests?

I haven't found any that are capable of 230W, but I can easily buy a 12v-19v boost converter. It just isn't the best solution... *if* I can charge a 19v battery with MPPT.

Will a MPPT charge controller work ok with a 19v battery? They say 12v or 24v and that they auto-sense. They also have custom profiles... but does anyone know if any will work with an odd voltage within that range? Why? Because the biggest load on my system will be a laptop computer (max 230W...

I thought BMS was more of a safety backup. Charging and discharging parameters can be set with the charge controller. But I guess you could tweak the balancing parameters? I mostly see value in cells that are matched and will last for 10 years, but that one is tough to pin down... better...

I saw those, but unless I missed it their testing results consisted of "it works". They didn't test it for accuracy.

OP, don't know if you saw this thread, but the Chins battery probably has pouch cells: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/new-chins-100ah-lifepo4-battery-teardown.36496/ Actually, any of them might. If you planning to take one apart be sure to check before hand.

It's MPPT. Appears you can set any charge voltage between 12-72. 300W unit is $67, 600W is $100...

Says up to 1.5A. I need 10x that amount.

I think you might have misunderstood...? The 19v battery is my camper house battery, 6s LFP. I'll be living in this full time, and charging with solar. The reason for 19v is so I can run the laptop directly from the camper battery with no gadgets in between.

I saw those when I was searching for a BMS. Still not available. I'd still need a charger though, right? I was hoping that off the shelf programmable MPPTs would charge 19v batteries. Is the answer to that no, or has it not been tried?

Can't you make a claim with Alibaba if the product fails to perform as described? The "as is" disclaimer from 18650 means you have no rights to complain if it's faulty. Also, was the price the same?

EDIT: I changed the title to better reflect the actual issue. 1/23/2024 This is the Power Queen trolling battery (12v 100ah), which I purchased 3 weeks ago on Amazon. I figured it was very similar if not identical to the Li Time trolling battery that Will reviewed. I started cycling it about...

I was just looking at that and noted in the specs it said +-5% current precision. That seems really poor. Have you checked yours? This one...

Hi... just searching for "queen" and came across this. Based on what I've read there shouldn't be any issue at all if a different battery is connected in parallel.

It isn't the cost that concerns me, but the losses, reliability, and failure modes.... Could it kill the laptop? Seems better to make a direct connection to the battery. IME laptops aren't that sensitive to the input voltage; they have internal regulators to step down the voltage for components...

I ran across this company recently, ToBattery. Since you are undecided on 100 or 200ah they are selling a 150ah battery without a case for $450. They sell on ebay also, with very good reviews (99.7%). They claim low temperature protection as well. Though their warranty terms aren't great (1 year...

Have you had a chance to test any? The prices are great if they are really grade A (too good to be true?), but the total lack of warranty and sketchy service is giving me pause... "WARRANTY DISCLAIMER THIS SITE AND THE MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS ON THIS SITE ARE PROVIDED "AS IS" AND WITHOUT...

The laptop powersupply says 19.5v. I doubt any components in the laptop are fed that voltage, rather it's stepped-down internally. The battery is 11v.